Article [13] ST1300 - Pre-load Fluid Replacement

Usually a wrench on the housing and another on the banjo bolt will do the trick. An extra pair of hands to keep things solid when loosening will help.
Best place to refill is at that cylinder.
 
With help from this forum I have so far:-

Changed the engine oil
Changed the rear final drive oil
Fitted a new air filter
Fitted new spark plugs (the NGK Iridium ones)
Flushed out and refilled the cooling system
Got the preload adjuster working again
Fitted new brake pads front and rear
And installed some heated grips

I wouldn't have had the confidence to do most of those things without the help and guidance from this forum.

Next job is to change the brake and clutch fluid.

Thanks so much to all of you.
 
Way to go Johnny! The key things to keep in mind about most service tasks are:
- they usually as hard as they may initially seem;
- if the task is approached methodically, most can be done anyone;
- were all still learning but there are plenty of on-line resources (for the ST, the best being this very group).

Cheers,

Pete
 
Johnny24 said:
With help from this forum I have so far:-

Changed the engine oil
Changed the rear final drive oil
Fitted a new air filter
Fitted new spark plugs (the NGK Iridium ones)
Flushed out and refilled the cooling system
Got the preload adjuster working again
Fitted new brake pads front and rear
And installed some heated grips

I wouldn't have had the confidence to do most of those things without the help and guidance from this forum.

Next job is to change the brake and clutch fluid.

Thanks so much to all of you.
Click to expand...

Same here, plus timing belt and hoses. Got a low mile 1991 ST1100 at the end of July. It had been stored around 20 years. If not for the tips, stickies and comments, I would probably have pile of cracked plastic work by now. Honda and other manuals are a great go-by, but they don't contain the experience-driven fine points that make the tasks seem simple.
 
I'm going to give this a shot. With me and the missus on board, it's pushing close to 500lbs on the seat(I'm no lightweight...) and I've noticed that the adjustment doesn't make much difference. I've got ss-8 oil and some banjo washers, why not?
 
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Was going to give this a try today but in order to remove my rear shock the manual says to remove the right side step support which would include the rear brake master. Also the upper bolt is buried under the gas tank. Is there an easier way? Other issue is that my adjuster knob screw doesn't want to loosen. Actually started to strip the head. I can drill it out and use an extractor if it comes to that but would like to avoid it if possible.


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You dont have to remove the shock. Have a look at the posts following the original OP. Posts 7&8 describe how to do the procedure with just accessing the adjuster.
 
cjames431 said:
Was going to give this a try today but in order to remove my rear shock the manual says to remove the right side step support which would include the rear brake master. Also the upper bolt is buried under the gas tank. Is there an easier way? Other issue is that my adjuster knob screw doesn't want to loosen. Actually started to strip the head. I can drill it out and use an extractor if it comes to that but would like to avoid it if possible.

Colin, it took me 20 min on the first bike....just read the whole service thread. ToddC

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Click to expand...

Read above....
 
All - one other quick note. The phillips head screw that holds the knob on is the same design as the throttle body intakes - JIS. That may be why Colin's head started to strip. However, you actually don't even need to take the knob off to do this service, unless you need to clean out the little ratchet ball & spring - as is noted earlier on this thread.
 
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I just finished servicing the preload valve on the rear shock. A lot of you guys have mentioned a white substance in the valve when servicing. I did find some and I believe it is just assembly paste from the manufacture. I now get resistance after one full turn. Looking forward to riding it this afternoon to see how it feels. I also adjusted the rebound damper.
 
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cjames431 said:
I just finished servicing the preload valve on the rear shock. A lot of you guys have mentioned a white substance in the valve when servicing. I did find some and I believe it is just assembly paste from the manufacture. I now get resistance after one full turn. Looking forward to riding it this afternoon to see how it feels. I also adjusted the rebound damper.
Click to expand...

How long did it take you Colin??


T
 
Maybe 30 minutes. I pulled the valve off the left side. Was really super simple. Don't know what I would do without this forum and all it's information.
 
Thank you for instructions. Did it today and decided to upload pics. Just in case :)

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I ended up using about 10 ml of jack oil. Old oil was little bit cloudy with grey drops which looks like graphite powder.

Feel pressure just before second click now.
 
Thanks for adding these great pics Miansi! I'm a visual learner and seeing these made it so much more clear! I'll probably address this during my upcoming weekend, looks very easy, and after rechecking my adjuster I realized I wasn't getting any real resistance until 6+ full rotations of the knob so I should experience some significant improvement! I was originally planning to wait until the Indiana Tech event.... but this one looks too easy to wait on...
 
Jethro77 said:
Thanks for adding these great pics Miansi! I'm a visual learner and seeing these made it so much more clear! I'll probably address this during my upcoming weekend, looks very easy, and after rechecking my adjuster I realized I wasn't getting any real resistance until 6+ full rotations of the knob so I should experience some significant improvement! I was originally planning to wait until the Indiana Tech event.... but this one looks too easy to wait on...
Click to expand...

What you didn't believe me?
 
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