Article [13] ST1300 - Pre-load Fluid Replacement

Jethro77 said:
Thanks for adding these great pics Miansi! I'm a visual learner and seeing these made it so much more clear! I'll probably address this during my upcoming weekend, looks very easy, and after rechecking my adjuster I realized I wasn't getting any real resistance until 6+ full rotations of the knob so I should experience some significant improvement! I was originally planning to wait until the Indiana Tech event.... but this one looks too easy to wait on...
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I'm sure you can do this but the standard amount of preload available is 36 clicks or 18 turns of the adjuster. Losing 6 turns is loss of 1/3 of the available. If you ride solo with not much cargo the loss of 6 turns is not something that probably matters in regards to being able to set the correct amount of sag for your riding weight unless you are pretty heavy or ride with a passenger. My point is that setting preload affects how much the bike sags under weight of bike, rider, and cargo and we don't all need the entire 36 clicks - that 24 will suffice. If you weigh around 200 lbs or less, ride mostly solo with less than 50 lbs of cargo than 12 available turns of preload is more than enough. It's nice to be able to use all 36 clicks and that is why I started this thread 5 years ago. At that time mine took about 18 turns to start adding preload! 5 years later the play in mine is back up to 2 turns so I just use 2 turns in as the point of zero preload and add turns from there to get the sag I want. At 6+ turns you might be OK to wait until the tech event to remove all the play. For now your shock may have sufficient preload adjustment to get all the performance out of it that is necessary.
 
Finally did this the other night and got a test ride in today.

Noticeable difference!

I set it exactly where Igofar suggests in the article and it's perfect for me, 4 clicks gave me a soft but responsive feel. I had already set the rebound at the 1.5 position so no change there.
 
I've just done mine! But it's raining so haven't tried it out yet. First noticeable difference is pressure on the first click.
I found that the bar the adjuster is mounted on may not be strong enough to survive any real force undoing the banjo. On mine it started to bend so I needed a wrench to hold the cylinder while I undid it. I also found I needed cloths, a lot of cloths. You are going to make a lot of mess topping it up unless you have a syringe or something - and the oil gets everywhere. it will fill the indents in the rear of the knob, meaning that when you try to reassemble it to the banjo, it flows everywhere. It took longer than 20 minutes, but next time it will be closer to 20 !
 
Did you turn the knob counter clockwise, then push the piston back down before attempting to put the oil in?
I was just wondering why you had oil flowing everywhere. I simply remove the banjo fitting from the housing and wrap a red shop rag around the end of the line/banjo fitting/and washers and stick it behind the lift handle out of the way while I clean the housing out, then after everything is loosened and the piston is pushed in, I simply use the pointed spout on a 90 weight gear oil bottle and dribble it in until its flush with the housing then bring the line back down and put it together. Once you get used to doing it, it will only take you about 10 minutes and you won't spill any oil at all.
Glad you got it done, and hope you enjoy the smoother ride now.
Igofar
 
I replaced oil in preload this afternoon after reading this article. 15 mins was all it took. Great write up saved so much time and know that I can reference any issues that I might come across. Cant thank you guys enough . Ride after showed that it was over due and the wife might enjoy getting back on the bike.
Cheers from down under.
 
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I did this procedure this past weekend. I didn't remove the adjuster knob and used 10 wt fork oil. I also reused the crush washers.

Before - 21 clicks til starting to feel resistance and actually adjusting
After - 2 clicks

Thanks to DDuelin, IGofar, STreaker, Miansi and all those who documented it to make it easy!
 
I have done this procedure several times on my original shock reservoir at 50k and 80K miles, a replacement I bought with 5k miles on it, and the shock on my buddies' bike he just bought at 26k miles. Every time, the reservoirs needed additional fluid, in different amounts. The bike with 26k miles on it required about 20 full turns until resistance was met! Now, it engages at one turn. I always use Showa SS-8 or BelRay 10w as replacement fluid, and I reuse the copper washers after annealing them. Never any issues with leakage. The biggest problem I have found with this procedure is trying to keep from losing the ball and/or spring in the clicker. They tend to have minds of their own.
 
There is no reason or need to remove the knob, ball, or spring. Simply remove the 10mm bolt at the top of the mounting bar and turn the unit upside down to service it. You can flush/wash any dirt around the knob from behind with solvent like WD-40 etc.
 
Igofar said:
There is no reason or need to remove the knob, ball, or spring. Simply remove the 10mm bolt at the top of the mounting bar and turn the unit upside down to service it. You can flush/wash any dirt around the knob from behind with solvent like WD-40 etc.
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Usually, I agree. Twice, for me, massive crud under the knob and within the spring hole has dictated the removal of the knob, ball and spring.
 
I think you mean turns IN, clockwise, after you feel resistance from the pre-load fluid.

Seven clicks is the standard setting. For reference, I weigh 180lbs and set mine on 10 clicks after resistance, 12 with me and about 35 lbs luggage. 20 with 130lb GF. Damping set in the middle.

You are going to need more preload than that, but you need to experiment. Read up on proper sag settings. Also, I would start with the damping about 3/4 firm in your case.
 
jmcarruth said:
I think you mean turns IN, clockwise, after you feel resistance from the pre-load fluid.

Seven clicks is the standard setting. For reference, I weigh 180lbs and set mine on 10 clicks after resistance, 12 with me and about 35 lbs luggage. 20 with 130lb GF. Damping set in the middle.

You are going to need more preload than that, but you need to experiment. Read up on proper sag settings. Also, I would start with the damping about 3/4 firm in your case.
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Actually I was referring to the screw at the base of the shock, what would you recommend? 3/4th equals ? of turn from seated or full out? Thanks.
 
Dave.David said:
Actually I was referring to the screw at the base of the shock, what would you recommend? 3/4th equals ? of turn from seated or full out? Thanks.
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Damping - from the manual: To adjust to the standard position:
1. Turn the damping adjuster clockwise until it will no longer turn (lightly seats).
'This is the full hard setting.
2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise approximately 1 turn so that the punch
mark on the adjuster aligns with the reference punch mark. This is the
standard position.
To Reduce Rebound Damping (SOFT):
For a light load and smooth road conditions, turn the adjuster counterclockwise
toward SOFT (S).
To Increase Rebound Damping (HARD):
For a firmer ride and rough road conditions, turn the adjuster clockwise toward
HARD (H).

I would start with the standard position.
 
jmcarruth said:
Damping - from the manual: To adjust to the standard position:
1. Turn the damping adjuster clockwise until it will no longer turn (lightly seats).
'This is the full hard setting.
2. Turn the adjuster counterclockwise approximately 1 turn so that the punch
mark on the adjuster aligns with the reference punch mark. This is the
standard position.
To Reduce Rebound Damping (SOFT):
For a light load and smooth road conditions, turn the adjuster counterclockwise
toward SOFT (S).
To Increase Rebound Damping (HARD):
For a firmer ride and rough road conditions, turn the adjuster clockwise toward
HARD (H).

I would start with the standard position.
Click to expand...
Even with 300 or 500 lbs? Manual says max weight is 400lbs.
 
You would need more damping than standard 1 turn if you are at max load of apprx 395 lbs.

IIRC there is little more than 3 turns available but beyond 2 the ride may be unacceptably harsh.

You really need more spring for 200 lbs much less 400 or 500. No matter what you do the suspension is overwhelmed.
 
dduelin said:
You would need more damping than standard 1 turn if you are at max load of apprx 395 lbs.

IIRC there is little more than 3 turns available but beyond 2 the ride may be unacceptably harsh.

You really need more spring for 200 lbs much less 400 or 500. No matter what you do the suspension is overwhelmed.
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Start at 1 turn out from full clockwise and turn in as needed, thank you Dave and all the great knowledgeable people here.
 
I found out mine with 27000 miles was about empty. 25 clicks till resistance, now 1.75. I'm glad inside was clean. Thank you all again for the great advice.
 
Dave.David said:
I found out mine with 27000 miles was about empty. 25 clicks till resistance, now 1.75. I'm glad inside was clean. Thank you all again for the great advice.
Click to expand...

Not sure I understand what you are saying? 25 clicks, means your adjuster was almost completely empty, which is common, and one and one half turns counter clockwise on the damper screw (bottom of shock) from lightly seated (clockwise) is a good place to start on your damper setting. I find for most people, that one and a half turns (factory setting is one turn) to one and three quarter turns is just about perfect with the factory spring(s).
 
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