Article [13] ST1300 - Pre-load Fluid Replacement

I've read most of this post and unless I missed it, nobody talks about pressuring the shock when you're done. That's more important than changing the oil. Let me know if I'm wrong. I did see a post where RT can machine in a valve for that very reason. If you all are running a flat shock, that's a bad ride.
 
EA6BMECH said:
I've read most of this post and unless I missed it, nobody talks about pressuring the shock when you're done. That's more important than changing the oil. Let me know if I'm wrong. I did see a post where RT can machine in a valve for that very reason. If you all are running a flat shock, that's a bad ride.
Click to expand...

This is not replacing fluid in the shock, only the preload adjuster. It is pressurized when turning in the adjuster knob.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ok, got it. I'll have to do mine. I just WD'd the threads only to show me that it takes a couple free wheel'n turns to start the preload adjusting, so I know it's bad.
 
I just found out that I had no oil in my preload adjuster. This is my first Bike, I've had it for 1 year.I've been on this site alot during the past year, but had never heard about the common issue of low oil in the preload adjuster. I thought I needed a bigger spring because Honda UnderSprung this Bike!
I even went to a "suspension specialist" nice guy very knowledgable about racing bikes, but he did not know about this issue with ST1300 Showa rear suspension. He cranked my adjuster all the way down and thought I needed to put on a bigger spring.I assume the same suspension is used on other bikes too.
I was talking to Igofar on the phone about bleeding my brakes and happened to mention my rear suspension.He told me about the preload adjuster issue.
Here are some photos Igofar sent to me. I'm not sure if they have ever been posted. Also a jpeg with the instructions so it's all together in one post. So with this info and dduelin's info, and others, I was able to put fresh oil ( Hydraulic Lift Oil) in the adjuster. It made a huge difference in the feel of the ride. My rear tire has more contact with the ground and"follows" the front tire. Thanks again to everyone who contributes to this site. I don't know how a first time owner
can manage without the info provided here. The thought of relying on a dealer to solve issues with the bike is NOT an option!

Todd


preload instructions.jpg



preload.jpg
preload1.jpg
preload2.jpg
preload3.jpg
preload4.jpg
preload5.jpg
preload6.jpg
preload7.jpg
preload8.jpg
preload9.jpg
preload10.jpg
preload11.jpg
 
Last edited:
FYI, these photos were provided by another member on this sight, I simply cut and pasted them, and forwarded them to todddra as an photo example. The text was my instructions to another member as well, who was kind enough to post it on this forum.
Not trying to claim anyone's photo's for my own.
Glad you were able to sort your preload adjuster out.
Igofar
 
I just read through all 132 posts in this thread on how to add oil to the preload adjuster.

Is this the most up to date info? Or, is the anything new or missed?
 
Jay51 said:
I just read through all 132 posts in this thread on how to add oil to the preload adjuster.

Is this the most up to date info? Or, is the anything new or missed?
Click to expand...
I believe it's all here. Would you like someone who's done this many times to only look over your shoulder and answer questions.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
Jay51 said:
Yes, Can you make a recommendation :)
Click to expand...
Refilling the preload adjuster is one of the simpler maintenance procedures on the ST's (well, if your knees and back are ok, checking the oil is not quite as complicated). If you follow Larry's instructions (Post 31 on page 4 of this thread) removing the knob and losing the ball or spring is not really necessary (removing the knob should be done if your P-L adjuster does not click when turned).

If the oil that comes out of your adjuster once you get it off the bike is not clean, I'd suggest using a hypodermic syringe (less the needle) to squirt some fresh oil into the body of the adjuster to rinse it out.
 
I may have missed it in the thread...is there a good link to the replacement metal banjo bolt washers? I'd like to buy a few for the next refill.

Thanks!
 
M1-Shooter said:
I may have missed it in the thread...is there a good link to the replacement metal banjo bolt washers? I'd like to buy a few for the next refill.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Honda will tell you they are not available, however, they will also tell you you need to purchase the entire rear shock assembly too :rofl1:
Here is the part number you need: WASHER, SPECIAL (8MM)90544-283-000 Honda.
I guess Honda didn't think of looking at the Fork assembly crush washer :rolleyes:
 
I got the same problem. I can turn the adjusterknob halfway in, but nothing happens. Already filled up the adjuster twice, but didn't work. It feels like the plunger is stuck halfway the cylinder. I am going to try the procedure described by intotheabis. I'll let you know if it works..
 
Last edited:
Rene said:
I got the same problem. I can turn the adjusterknob halfway in, but nothing happens. Already filled up the adjuster twice, but didn't work. It feels like the plunger is stuck halfway the cylinder. I am going to try the procedure described by intotheabis. I'll let you if it works..
Click to expand...
It is very common for the internal plunger to get stuck in the bore. It is free floating and the oil pressure is suppose to push it back. When the oil leaks out there isn't enough to push it all of the way back again. Use a nail to push it back against the adjustment screw before filling with oil.

Sent using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Took the adjuster apart this afternoon and cleaned it. Applied a little ATE grease on the bore, topped it of with forkoil and it works like a charme again. Thanks for the tip!
 
Last edited:
Add my name to the list of people who have successfully performed this fix; all due to the time and patience of those who contributed their efforts. :banr1:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom