Article [13] ST1300 - Pre-load Fluid Replacement

Great advice Igofar, I had some ACF-50 so used that and left it to penetrate for 24 hours, and it worked perfectly. Now I get resistance on the preload adjuster after 1 click :thumb:
 
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A couple of notes to add that might help someone.

1. Score a line on the hose (the metal part the banjo bolt goes thru) and the reservoir body so you know how to orient the hose when reinstalling.

2. Igofar's ATF-acetone penetrating fluid has merit. If you don't trust him, here's extra "proof."


"Machinist’s Workshop Mag™ recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found
very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for
break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective
test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
“scientifically rusted” environment.

Penetrating oil .......... Average load
None ........................ 516 pounds
WD-40 ....................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix ....... 53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a “home brew” mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note
the “home brew” was better than any commercial product in this one particular test.
Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.
Note also that “Liquid Wrench” is almost as good as “Kroil” for about 20% of the price.
Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is the best and you can also use ATF- lacquer
thinner 50 - 50 mix."

3. As well, I was careful when removing the adjuster knob to not lose the ball bearing or spring. However, when trying to reassemble it the ball bearing shot like a bb out of a gun into the world of the lost. After saying a bad word once I figured; well, do I have any ball bearings here, to which I had a brainstorm. I went over to the bench and dug out a couple of old bearings and popped the smallest open. The ball bearing worked but was a bit small. I opened a second larger bearing and voila, worked like a charm and no visit to the hardware store. I aslo have another 5 or so spares if I lose it the next time I R&R the preload.

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Obo said:
A couple of notes to add that might help someone.

1. Score a line on the hose (the metal part the banjo bolt goes thru) and the reservoir body so you know how to orient the hose when reinstalling.

2. Igofar's ATF-acetone penetrating fluid has merit. If you don't trust him, here's extra "proof."


"Machinist’s Workshop Mag™ recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found
very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for
break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective
test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
“scientifically rusted” environment.

Penetrating oil .......... Average load
None ........................ 516 pounds
WD-40 ....................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix ....... 53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a “home brew” mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note
the “home brew” was better than any commercial product in this one particular test.
Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.
Note also that “Liquid Wrench” is almost as good as “Kroil” for about 20% of the price.
Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is the best and you can also use ATF- lacquer
thinner 50 - 50 mix."

3. As well, I was careful when removing the adjuster knob to not lose the ball bearing or spring. However, when trying to reassemble it the ball bearing shot like a bb out of a gun into the world of the lost. After saying a bad word once I figured; well, do I have any ball bearings here, to which I had a brainstorm. I went over to the bench and dug out a couple of old bearings and popped the smallest open. The ball bearing worked but was a bit small. I opened a second larger bearing and voila, worked like a charm and no visit to the hardware store. I aslo have another 5 or so spares if I lose it the next time I R&R the preload.
Click to expand...
Regarding the next time your R & R the preloader if you get in the habit of releasing preload to "0" when the bike is not going to be ridden for a few days you will never need to service it again. This simple step worked with my ST1300 and is still working with my Goldwing and R1200RT.
 
dduelin said:
Here are some pictures I took when I serviced the preload adjuster on a spare shock I have. I bought this off the forum with 9,000 miles on it. 10,000 miles later it took 12 clicks for the adjuster to start working. In the first pic the preload is completely screwed in or to the Hard setting and I measured 6.5 mm of preload on the spring which is all she had at that time. Pic 2 the adjuster is screwed all the way out and the spring is the full length as allowed by the shock body. In Pic 3 I have removed the adjuster knob. The ball and spring that make up the clicker are lying between the adjuster body and the knob. I am pointing at the hole the spring and ball are in when assembled. If the ball flies out when removing the knob and is lost you can go to Ace Hardware and get a 4mm or 5/32 ball bearing to replace the lost one. That is what I did. Pic 4 shows the hole in the end of the body and the original fluid that came out. It wasn't bad looking, just not enough of it. In Pic 5 you can see the large adjustable wrench and the 10mm wrench used to remove the banjo (the hose) fitting. Also there I have some Bel Ray 5 wt fork oil and a syringe I used to fill the adjuster body. I saw 5 wt fork oil used in a Gold Wing DIY article on refilling a Showa preload adjuster and well, I had some on the shelf so that is what I used. In Pic 6 I have reassembled the hose and the knob back on and am pointing to where the ball fits just under the edge of the knob. Pic 7 shows now there is 9.7 mm of preload on the spring - a gain of 3.2 mm. The adjuster takes up at the first click now. Pic 8 shows the preload adjuster of the shock that is on my bike now. Because the clicker eventually gets crud in it and doesn't click much I painted a white dot and 2 white lines 180 degrees apart that correspond to "clicks" so I can keep track of preload and replicate the settings I want. I always release all preload on the shock now when the bike is in the garage. I hope this slows the loss of adjustment that seems to dog the Showa adjuster Honda uses on the ST1300. It seems to work so far.
Click to expand...

Hi dduelin,

Enjoyed your post

I have a ST-1300 2006 police version....bought it brand new in 2008

Just turned 200,000 km or 124,274 miles

Bad news is my rear shock absorber just started leaking fluid

Looking into either a refurbished rear shock absorber or a new one

I do my own maintenance but not sure if I could remove or install a rear shock absorber

So I'm thinking brand new absorber or slightly used one as mentioned in your post

What was the ball park price of your spare shock, and was it farily easy to find some on-line or on the forum

Thanks for any help

Danny
Ottawa Ontario, Canada
 
Danny J said:
I do my own maintenance but not sure if I could remove or install a rear shock absorber
Click to expand...
Sure you can, it's straight forward.

Spring, Set, Match | ST1300-Suspension

Back in February I accidentally ordered the rear shock and spacer instead of the front springs. I did not return them, I have swapped the OEM out and went full RaceTech, will be installing shortly. https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/new-springs-spring.183033/ SPSC P575516 SPR COLLAR...
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com
There are other threads here as well.
 
Danny J said:
Hi dduelin,

Enjoyed your post

I have a ST-1300 2006 police version....bought it brand new in 2008

Just turned 200,000 km or 124,274 miles

Bad news is my rear shock absorber just started leaking fluid

Looking into either a refurbished rear shock absorber or a new one

I do my own maintenance but not sure if I could remove or install a rear shock absorber

So I'm thinking brand new absorber or slightly used one as mentioned in your post

What was the ball park price of your spare shock, and was it farily easy to find some on-line or on the forum

Thanks for any help

Danny
Ottawa Ontario, Canada
Click to expand...
Like Will posted I’m sure you could R & R the rear shock. There’s plenty of help here.

I think I paid $100 for the used ST shock. It appeared here in the ST-Owner classifieds and they still do from time to time. You might post a Want To Buy in the classifieds.
 
You can yank your shock, send it off to RaceTech, and for about $400 they will rebuild it, install Gold Valves and give you a new spring. My quoted price is about 6 years old, and that is roughly what I remember. Removing the rear shock is not that big a deal. you will need to support the rear of the bike solidly, and note carefully the route the preload adjuster hose takes. I installed my modified shock but messed up on the hose. This required removing the shock and starting again. The second install went faster than the first. Practice makes perfect. :rofl1:

I'd installed Gold Valves up front first, and that made a big difference. The rear upgrade was not as dramatic a difference, but it was noticeable.
 
Hi guys. I noticed the Rear Shock Absorber Pre-Load Hose is damaged and leaking oil, so I can't adjust anymore. Is the hose can be replaced or I have to buy the whole set?
Also anyone knows the size (diameter) of the hose?

Thanks and you all have a great Xmas.
 
mmST1100 said:
Hi guys. I noticed the Rear Shock Absorber Pre-Load Hose is damaged and leaking oil, so I can't adjust anymore. Is the hose can be replaced or I have to buy the whole set?
Also anyone knows the size (diameter) of the hose?

Thanks and you all have a great Xmas.
Click to expand...
The preload adjuster hose is not available separately from Honda. It is available aftermarket from suspension companies like Race Tech as part of a shock rebuild. I do not know if they sell the hose separately without sending the shock in for rebuild. Be advised that people who have used the Race Tech hose have complained that they use longer bigger/longer banjo bolts on their hoses than what is found on the OEM Honda one. This added length makes fitting it in more difficult, so questions should be asked regarding any aftermarket replacement.
 
mmST1100 said:
Hi guys. I noticed the Rear Shock Absorber Pre-Load Hose is damaged and leaking oil, so I can't adjust anymore. Is the hose can be replaced or I have to buy the whole set?
Also anyone knows the size (diameter) of the hose?

Thanks and you all have a great Xmas.
Click to expand...
Not sure on the 1100, for mine I bought a used shock with it still on to take to the local hydraulic hose shop and have them make me a stainless one. If I was in your spot I would take the bike/ hose over to HH shop and ask. Good luck.
 
mmST1100 said:
Hi guys. I noticed the Rear Shock Absorber Pre-Load Hose is damaged and leaking oil, so I can't adjust anymore. Is the hose can be replaced or I have to buy the whole set?
Also anyone knows the size (diameter) of the hose?

Thanks and you all have a great Xmas.
Click to expand...


Hi mmST1100

I have a ST1300 2006

This year I turned 200,000 km or 125,000 miles

And just after that I had an supension oil leak

I am replacing my whole rear shock absorber this spring

Attached is a pic of the new shock absorber and a diagram of it

Hope this helps

Danny


IMG_5282.jpeg
 

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