I Didn't Want To Say Anything Until I Was Sure. . .

Big_Jim59 said:
Every little thing fixed is one more thing off the list. I got out this morning intending to test the ground to the left front turn signal. Once I pulled the mirror housing it became obvious as the connector had pulled apart. A deft action with needle nose pliers saw the connector seated and it works now. I don't know why I didn't see it before.
Click to expand...
Connectors and Grounding wires are typically the root of all electrical faults. Grub washers are your friends until they corrode! Electrolyte grease is worth using IMO.
 
CruisingDog said:
Connectors and Grounding wires are typically the root of all electrical faults. Grub washers are your friends until they corrode! Electrolyte grease is worth using IMO.
Click to expand...
You are so right. I once took a BMW service class on all things electrical (this was when the K bikes were released and they were not your grandfather's electrics.) We went through a bunch of theory and testing procedures and at the end of the class the instructor said the one thing I have found to be the most valuable words of wisdom. He said "When all is said and done 99% of the issues will be bad grounds and corroded connectors." The good news is that it is so stinking dry in my part of Texas corrosion is not a big issue. Down around Houston it's a different story.
 
Willsmotorcycle said:
Guess the low fuel wasn't so easy... Here is a little more info

Honda st 1300 fuel gauge | ST1300 Related

Can anyone help have a honda st1300 2008 the middle 2 fuel digits on fuel gauge not working be grateful for any feedback
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com
Click to expand...
The gauge works and shows the amount of fuel in the tank so I am pretty sure the upper tank sending unit is fine. I replaced the low fuel thermister in the lower tank (it's on the fuel pump mount). I used a generic Honda item that looked the same but may not be the same value. The way it works is it changes resistance due to temperature. The cool fuel presents one resistance. If the unit is above the fuel it will warm and present another resistance. I believe it's just presenting the low fuel resistance or my ground for the unit is not sufficient. The low fuel thermister is not a part that is offered by Honda so I was taking a chance. I may just be cursed to have a blinking fuel gauge.
 
Big_Jim59 said:
The gauge works and shows the amount of fuel in the tank so I am pretty sure the upper tank sending unit is fine. I replaced the low fuel thermister in the lower tank (it's on the fuel pump mount). I used a generic Honda item that looked the same but may not be the same value. The way it works is it changes resistance due to temperature. The cool fuel presents one resistance. If the unit is above the fuel it will warm and present another resistance. I believe it's just presenting the low fuel resistance or my ground for the unit is not sufficient. The low fuel thermister is not a part that is offered by Honda so I was taking a chance. I may just be cursed to have a blinking fuel gauge.
Click to expand...
Thinking out loud, is it possible the air temperature and fuel temperature are the same, because, Texas.
 
Big_Jim59 said:
LOL! I was wondering the same thing. It is 110 in the garage, and it is a little cooler today but I still think the fuel is cooler.
Click to expand...
For a few years now, my body has started using the 'old guy clock'. I get up somewhere between 2 and 4 am. That's the best time to get anything done in our garage during the summer when our Texas hell-mouth is open.
 
Oldbikefixr said:
For a few years now, my body has started using the 'old guy clock'. I get up somewhere between 2 and 4 am. That's the best time to get anything done in our garage during the summer when our Texas hell-mouth is open.
Click to expand...
Oh crap! That's what that is?... I've been on the old guy clock since high school.
 
I give you a lot of credit for taking on such a project- I don’t think I have it in me to trace all that wiring (I’m NOT electrically inclined), and get a bike like that running. Great job so far! Getting it from near basket case status to running has been a lot of work for you (and working in a hot garage is terrible- I put A/C in mine so when I need to do something in the garage, it’s at least tolerable). 110 degrees is 110 though and even with A/C it’ll cool it down to maybe upper 90’s.

Not sure if you fully cleaned the gas tank yet…here’s a link to a gas tank cleaning procedure and I guess they feel the best solvent to use is vinegar (acetic acid, which is a weak acid that won’t eat the metal of the tank):

www.revzilla.com

How to clean rust out of a motorcycle gas tank - RevZilla

Whether you're saving an irreplaceable fuel tank on a vintage machine or just getting an old bike back on the road, here's all you need to know about getting the rust out.
www.revzilla.com www.revzilla.com
 
Andrew Shadow said:
Below are two thermistors that members of this forum have said work.

DigiKey Part Number 570-1089-ND

Mouser #: 594-NTCLE100E3152JB0
Click to expand...
I used this one because it looked identical to the OEM one and because it said it was used in a lot of Honda automotive applications.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/sensor-low-fuel-level-warning-sensor-mounted-to/107413

I am going to Ohm it out and see if I am getting a change in resistance. I am kicking myself for not doing more testing when the pump was out. I just got in a hurry to get it together and here it run. My fault entirely. I probably would have used one of the afore mentioned options but I was unsure how to wire it in. I was still a bit freaked out making splices to the existing wiring as it is.
 
Last edited:
Erdoc48 said:
I give you a lot of credit for taking on such a project- I don’t think I have it in me to trace all that wiring (I’m NOT electrically inclined), and get a bike like that running. Great job so far! Getting it from near basket case status to running has been a lot of work for you (and working in a hot garage is terrible- I put A/C in mine so when I need to do something in the garage, it’s at least tolerable). 110 degrees is 110 though and even with A/C it’ll cool it down to maybe upper 90’s.

Not sure if you fully cleaned the gas tank yet…here’s a link to a gas tank cleaning procedure and I guess they feel the best solvent to use is vinegar (acetic acid, which is a weak acid that won’t eat the metal of the tank):

www.revzilla.com

How to clean rust out of a motorcycle gas tank - RevZilla

Whether you're saving an irreplaceable fuel tank on a vintage machine or just getting an old bike back on the road, here's all you need to know about getting the rust out.
www.revzilla.com www.revzilla.com
Click to expand...
I have always used vinegar as my go to for tank cleaning. It can be stored and reused and disposal is not a toxic world ending affair. The electrical part of the project is not so daunting. It's the tracing circuits on a screen with old man eyes that's the tricky bit! As for the garage heat issue, the biggest problem is getting wrapped up in the project at hand. Then the wife pokes her head our of the door and implores you to come in as you have forgotten the time and are pouring sweat. If truth be told I have been having so much fun with this project I don't know when to stop. I had my choice when purchasing my ST of two bikes. One ran and one didn't and I was the most excited by the one that didn't run. How twisted it that?

Back when I was in my 20s, I worked in a Triumph/Norton/BMW dealership. I did mostly Norton/Triumph work. This was in the early 80s and so Norton had effectively died in 1975. Triumph was on the way out but we did get a last shipment of Triumphs in 1984 (I think). I found myself working on quite a few out-of-production machines. Fast forward to today. I remember the ST1300 as a new bike and yet the last one was made in 2013. That was actually a long time ago. The faults I am seeing such as electrical issues, rusted tanks, owner amateur wiring and miss matched fasteners are all issues I became quite familiar with in my early days. It all feels very familiar.
 
I noticed that the throttle was exceptionally stiff and a bit sticky. I had every intention of pulling it apart and I probably will in future but as I was looking it over I noticed that the wire, for the heated grip, was wrapped and then trapped by the throttle. As the throttle was twisted the wire would tighten up around the handlebar. A bit of manipulation remedied this.
 
I hate sitting around not doing anything so I was getting ready to pull the back wheel to do the spline service. (I have a pot of the proper grease which I ordered a few weeks ago.) I was spraying rusted bolts with penetrating oil and generally getting ready to pull it apart. I was passing the rear wheel through my hands and noticed the pin nail about 2mm from the left edge. That will not do at all. I had intended to run the original tires since I have been mostly running local neighborhood roads and no highway stuff so it's time for new rubber. I knew that I would have to replaced the tires eventually since the newest one is 12 years old but I thought I had a little time. I didn't have time.

Edit 1) I placed an order for Shinko Verge tires front and back. I have been using Shinkos on my VFR, my VTR, my Norton and have always had good performance with them.

In other news I did get my Honda key blanks and had a local lock smith cut two new keys for the ST. That makes me feel so much better knowing that I have a spare.
 
Last edited:
With the rear wheel out I set to cleaning out the old grease from the rear drive splines. The OEM grease must have done a wonderful job because there is no visible wear in the splines. Back in my BMW days we would pull the rear wheel to ascertain the actual mileage on a bike. The drive splines were a big area of wear on the old Air Heads. We usually saw noticeable wear at 40K miles. Only once did we see a high mileage bike with no wear and the owner confessed to regular grease changes at every tire replacement. There was also some speculation that the nature of the large capacity BMW opposed twin put a lot of hammering force on the splines under acceleration a deceleration. This was only made worse as the inevitable wear allowed more room for movement.

20240829_103955.jpg
 
Big_Jim59 said:
With the rear wheel out I set to cleaning out the old grease from the rear drive splines. The OEM grease must have done a wonderful job because there is no visible wear in the splines. Back in my BMW days we would pull the rear wheel to ascertain the actual mileage on a bike. The drive splines were a big area of wear on the old Air Heads. We usually saw noticeable wear at 40K miles. Only once did we see a high mileage bike with no wear and the owner confessed to regular grease changes at every tire replacement. There was also some speculation that the nature of the large capacity BMW opposed twin put a lot of hammering force on the splines under acceleration a deceleration. This was only made worse as the inevitable wear allowed more room for movement.

20240829_103955.jpg
Click to expand...
It's a very rare thing to see ST spline damage. It's a pretty good design. Obviously, some moly should be used when putting back together.

One weak are on the ST1300 is the rear wheel bearings. I would replace mine about every other tire change or longer if they felt fine and no notchy-ness to them.
 
Mellow said:
It's a very rare thing to see ST spline damage. It's a pretty good design. Obviously, some moly should be used when putting back together.

One weak are on the ST1300 is the rear wheel bearings. I would replace mine about every other tire change or longer if they felt fine and no notchy-ness to them.
Click to expand...
I thought about the bearings but mine feel fine. It's the problem with old motorcycles. As my old boss used to say "It's like cutting hair. Ya gotta stop at some point or you will end up bald." The bike sat for over 4 years and really everything needs to be checked or replaced. I am working my way through a list of items. Some of those items are stack ranked by importance.
 
Big_Jim59 said:
I thought about the bearings but mine feel fine. It's the problem with old motorcycles. As my old boss used to say "It's like cutting hair. Ya gotta stop at some point or you will end up bald." The bike sat for over 4 years and really everything needs to be checked or replaced. I am working my way through a list of items. Some of those items are stack ranked by importance.
Click to expand...
Absolutely - hit the major safety items first then go from there as time permits.. you are doing great.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom