I Didn't Want To Say Anything Until I Was Sure. . .

If the tank was left partially filled for a long time, the surface of the upper empty part may not look too good. If you fill it up, the new fuel can entrain particles from this deteriorated section and the fuel pump won't be very happy about it. A good tank clean up may help before restarting. Maybe with something like that

www.autozone.com

Best Fuel Tank Cleaning Kit for Cars, Trucks & SUVs

We have the best Fuel Tank Cleaning Kit for the right price. Buy online for free next day delivery or same day pickup at a store near you.
www.autozone.com www.autozone.com

Big part of a local shop's business here is resuscitation of garage queens, and they add fuel cleaner to the new fuel after draining and refilling (sometimes without even draining for the very low budget projects...)

Something like that maybe


I
 
Big_Jim59 said:
I did many a mile on a yellow 2000 (5th Gen) VFR800. It was one of the best bikes I ever owned. I also had an '06 VFR but I just didn't like it as much as my 5th Gen. I had nothing against it but I had my older Honda set up for me and I would have had to start over with the 6th Gen. I got that bike pretty cheap. It had been sitting and made a bit of smoke on start up. The owner panicked and sold it to me. I just rode the heck out of it and the smoking stopped.

I caught myself, tonight not wanting to quit (having so much fun) but I realized that fatigue was not my friend. It has been pretty hot today and I am afraid that I might have over done it.
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I bought my 09 VFR fom a guy who had owned it for many years until it failed our mandatory yearly inspection for worn discs, but by that time it also had rattling camchains, failed fork seals and bodged headlight wiring. I got it for a song, and have rectified all the faults and given it a major clean and polish...
 

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No, I had a crazy work schedule back then so I never made any events. I sold my VFR to a really nice kid who crashed it and wanted to know if I wanted to buy it back, cheap. (Big dent in the tank) Kind of broke my heart but what are ya going to do. The time for that bike had passed. It's funny, I always thought the VFR looked fantastic in yellow. I can't see the ST-1300 as a yellow bike. I don't know why?

TerryS said:
I bought my 09 VFR fom a guy who had owned it for many years until it failed our mandatory yearly inspection for worn discs, but by that time it also had rattling camchains, failed fork seals and bodged headlight wiring. I got it for a song, and have rectified all the faults and given it a major clean and polish...
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Man! That looks good! I had a red one, bone stock.

MidLife said:
If the tank was left partially filled for a long time, the surface of the upper empty part may not look too good. If you fill it up, the new fuel can entrain particles from this deteriorated section and the fuel pump won't be very happy about it. A good tank clean up may help before restarting. Maybe with something like that

www.autozone.com

Best Fuel Tank Cleaning Kit for Cars, Trucks & SUVs

We have the best Fuel Tank Cleaning Kit for the right price. Buy online for free next day delivery or same day pickup at a store near you.
www.autozone.com www.autozone.com

Big part of a local shop's business here is resuscitation of garage queens, and they add fuel cleaner to the new fuel after draining and refilling (sometimes without even draining for the very low budget projects...)

Something like that maybe


I
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I should just replace the pump. With the age of the bike it would seem prudent to both replace the old pump and to actually get down to the bottom of the tank and mop out ant crud.
 
Big_Jim59 said:
I should just replace the pump. With the age of the bike it would seem prudent to both replace the old pump and to actually get down to the bottom of the tank and mop out ant crud.
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Do the tank cleaning first. Making sure all is as shiny as possible before installing the new pump. And run a few tanks of fresh fuel with degunker with the old pump. No need to stress a new pump with displacing junk. Let the old one do the dirty work while it still can.
 
So I had to check the air box and filter having found leaves and nests on other bikes. I was cognisant of the air box screws and had read the repeated warnings about dropping them into the bikes nether regions. So, without fail I dropped the first screw I removed. I have a handy assortment of magnets because I have been down that road many times. I am happy to report that the air box is clean with a Honda brand filter in place. Once the bike is running I will replace it with a new OEM item. I did get a battery today and I have it on the charger. I want to drain what's left in the second tank and put a few gallons of the good stuff in to give it a fighting chance to start. I will probably replace the pump in the future so I might as well run this one if it will kick off.
 
Big_Jim59 said:
No, I had a crazy work schedule back then so I never made any events. I sold my VFR to a really nice kid who crashed it and wanted to know if I wanted to buy it back, cheap. (Big dent in the tank) Kind of broke my heart but what are ya going to do. The time for that bike had passed. It's funny, I always thought the VFR looked fantastic in yellow. I can't see the ST-1300 as a yellow bike. I don't know why?
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Here's my other current VFR; I wasn't that keen to buy a yellow one but in person, in yellow/black, the bike is stunning and in fabulous condition with some nice suspension improvements courtesy of Racetech bits up front and a high-spec Nitron shock in the back.
 

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TerryS said:
Here's my other current VFR; I wasn't that keen to buy a yellow one but in person, in yellow/black, the bike is stunning and in fabulous condition with some nice suspension improvements courtesy of Racetech bits up front and a high-spec Nitron shock in the back.
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Now you are making me all misty for my old VFR but I sold it for a reason and it was good while it lasted.

The good news is I have a ST1300 but now the fun starts. I have drained the lower tank via the FI return hose. (Fuel was old but not nasty.) I put 2 gallons of fresh gas in it. I installed a new battery. Turning the key I get no pump whine, FT light flash, ABS light on, fuel bar flash, left blinker flashing all the time. No start. Now the real fun begins!
 
A complete guess is there is an earth fault which is allowing current to pass from the blinker relay through the other indicator lights. Are they all flashing in synchro? Maybe try pulling the blinker fuse and see if the others stop. An earth fault might also stop the ECM from powering up the fuel pump. Fortunately, there's plenty more knowledgeable folk than me!
 
TerryS said:
A complete guess is there is an earth fault which is allowing current to pass from the blinker relay through the other indicator lights. Are they all flashing in synchro? Maybe try pulling the blinker fuse and see if the others stop. An earth fault might also stop the ECM from powering up the fuel pump. Fortunately, there's plenty more knowledgeable folk than me!
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I just found out how stupid I am. I had the emergency flasher on. So now the problem is the right side doesn't blink with the emergency flasher on. I also had the kick stand down and that was making the FI flash. I still get no fuel pump whine so I gotta run that circuit back to see if it hot. This is a learning experience!

I want to keep going but the wife is worried about me. I have vanished into the garage all day and it has been pretty hot here in Texas. I am going to have to pace myself.
 
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I believe kickstand down with engine off but killswitch on causes the FI light to blink out any stored error codes. Same as your VFR, long blinks =10 and short blinks = 1.

Stay hydrated. I hear beer works wonders.

Right side not flashing with the hazard lights is probably dirty switch contacts in the hazard switch. My new VFR was initially the same. Power for the hazards comes via the same turn signal relay, then splits at the switch to feed the left and right sides.

Is your fuel pump seized? Maybe check that you get 12v at the pump terminals when the ignition gets turned on for a few seconds. Or jumper the pump with a direct 12v.
 
I know that you wrote that the air box was clean but did you look below the air box? Mice like to take up residence in the vee between the cylinder banks and they leave behind chewed and damaged wiring harnesses.

You can run 12V+ and - directly to the pump terminals on the top of the lower tank to see if it has any life in it.

Big_Jim59 said:
I still get no fuel pump whine so I gotta run that circuit back to see if it hot. This is a learning experience!
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The below will be of help with that;

Article [13] - ST1300 - Fuel Pump Circuit - Fault Diagnosis | ST1300 Articles

An invaluable aid to the identification of electrical faults which result in the fuel pump not working on the ST1300. If you think that you cannot read an electrical circuit, try this. It takes you by the hand and leads you through the diagrams one step at a time. The Fuel Pump Circuit...
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com

You might be interested in the below as well;

Article - Maintenance Items Needed for a New (old) Bike | Articles

This article is the result of collaboration by Andrew Shadow, CYYJ, jfheath, Max Pete, SMSW, and SupraSabre. Igofar’s list was copied from the first link listed above. Click on the attached file. This one is V.11; in the future, any changes will be noted in the title on the first page as the...
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com
 
It's dead Jim! Direct application of 12V to brown wire to the pump gets squat. Wire is energized when key is on. Pump probably toast or the ground is messed up but that's just grasping at straws. Lots to do while I wait for a pump to arrive.
 
Another bummer is the bike is shod with almost new (no viable wear) Dunlop Road Smart tires but the date stamp shows the newest was made in 2017 and the oldest (rear) is from 2012. Bike was stored outside at least for the fast 15 months.
 
MidLife said:
Do the tank cleaning first. Making sure all is as shiny as possible before installing the new pump. And run a few tanks of fresh fuel with degunker with the old pump. No need to stress a new pump with displacing junk. Let the old one do the dirty work while it still can.
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The good news, with a non functioning pump, is that it didn't have a chance to circulate any of the bad gas (and it was bad) through the system. I gotta replacement pump winging its way to me even now.
 
Big_Jim59 said:
Another bummer is the bike is shod with almost new (no viable wear) Dunlop Road Smart tires but the date stamp shows the newest was made in 2017 and the oldest (rear) is from 2012. Bike was stored outside at least for the fast 15 months.
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That just means you have the opportunity to go double darkside! :D
 
Josh_ST said:
That just means you have the opportunity to go double darkside! :D
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The tires are good enough to ride me across town to get a state inspection (a requisite for obtaining a tag) but there is no way I am hitting the highway at speed on those. As I understand it. there are better choices than the Dunlop Road Smart tires.
 
Depends on how the bike has been stored, but I would not throw away a tyre that is in decent shape with no visible degradation e.g. visible cracking. I ran around on 10-year old tyres on my ST1100 and it didn't explode in a ball of flame, but new tyres certainly "felt" better. On my 1300 I have been using the Michelin Road5 and Road6, have also used a Pirelli Angel GT2 rear and am now on a set of Bridgestone BT32GTs. All of these have had more dry traction and wet grip than my self-preservation limits needed. The Road6 front gave me some impressive mileage (10,000km which was much better than a Road5GT) but I've generally only managed 6000km from a back tyre, which I blame on abrasive roads, a heavy bike and an enthusiastic cornering style...
 
I was laying on the ground, doing an oil change, and i noticed the profile of the rear tire. It is pretty well dished so replacing it will not be such a heart ache. The oil was nasty and smelled a bit like old gas but there were .no nasty surprises like coolant or metal. I did notice that the coolest bottle is empty so i guess i will have to run that down. I am working at the moment on stripping the body work. I want to change coolent and i want to get a better look at the accessory wiring mess. There is a radio amplifier and some accessory lighting wired in and i want it gone. I also want to see if i can make the powered wind screen move. It's stuck in the low poiition. It grunts a bit when the button is pressed for lower but i get nothing on the up side. Thinking (hoping) it's a mico-switch. It's hot as heck in the garage and i fear it's slowing progress.
 
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