I Didn't Want To Say Anything Until I Was Sure. . .

New tires installed. Mounted a pare of Shinko 011 Verge Front 120/70ZR18 (59W) Rear 170/60ZR17 (72W).

I also took the time to scrub both wheels with a Scotch-Brite pad and some washing up soap. They are not perfect but at least it scrubbed off a lot of the grime. I also fixed a M6x1.0 screw that was holding the right reflector on the front fender. Everyone knows the proper procedure for cross threading a screw is to crank down until it stops or until you strip out the Allen drive head or in this case both. I just ran a tap through the threads, cleaned them up and presto the screw makes up tight. It only takes a little longer to do it right.

I have a bunch of stuff still to do. I need to pull the fairings back off. Install my USB charger. Pull the air box cover and install a new air sensor. but right now I am sick of having it in pieces and I want to ride it.
 
I am just back from my "gotta scrub that new rubber in" ride. It was a very nice ride! I was concerned by a lack of wheel weights but it seems to ride fine. I got it up to over 80 with no issues.

I have been pouring over all the advice and suggestions concerning the dreaded blinking fuel light issue. I have been attempting to lay these snakes out straight. In my case the following page has some very good answers. But my issue is slightly different and has a few twists.

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/blinking-fuel-gauge-troubleshooting.93233/

1) My bike was left sitting for over 4 year and maybe longer. The fuel pump was sitting in about a gallon of bad fuel. This caused a lot of corrosion to the point were the wires broke at the pump plug and the thermistor (low fuel sending unit) was half denigrated. It was nasty,

2) I pulled and cleaned the pump bracket and replaced the pump, filter, hoses and thermistor. I took a chance and replaced the thermistor with a generic Honda item using that looked right and was widely used on their cars. See link below.

https://www.npdlink.com/product/sensor-low-fuel-level-warning-sensor-mounted-to/107413

I used this one because even if I replace the thermistor with one indicated on the blinking-fuel-gauge-troubleshooting page I still needed an intact can.

3) I added two gallons of fuel for my initial start up plus another 1.5 gallons for my initial. This gave me a reading of maybe half a tank on the bar gauge but it was still flashing.

4) I filled the tank with non-ethanol gas and was excited to see that the fuel bars showed full. I set my trip mileage to zero and went for a ride. I have done about 125 miles, the gas is not showing, visibly, in the tank but the fuel bars still read full.

5) I may end up putting a piece of tape over the fuel gauge and using my trip mileage as an indicator.
 
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The FI light has an air sensor error. I knew it was plugged in so I tried replacing the sensor. It's still on. Failure. I guess my next step will be to pull the windshield and the front cover and check continuity to the instrument cluster connection.
 
Try this:

The diagnostic connector is the RED one located under the passenger seat.
If the FI light blinks 20 times at the end of the procedure, you have to start over as the code has not cleared.

Fault Code Reset​




Turn the engine stop switch to the RUN position.


Turn the ignition off.


Using a jumper, short the brown and green/orange wires on the diagnostic connector.


Turn the ignition on.


Remove the jumper from the diagnostic connector.


When the FI indicator lights, immediately short the brown and green/orange wires on the diagnostic connector.


Verify that the FI indicator goes off and then begins blinking.
 
Paul said:
Try this:

The diagnostic connector is the RED one located under the passenger seat.
Click to expand...
Thanks Paul! It was a great idea but no change. I keep getting the same old 9 blinks, with the stand down and shorting the diagnostic wires doesn't seem to clear anything. I have not checked the continuity of my jumper lead and I haven't ruled out that I am doing something wrong.

Since I haven't been under the air box before I believe that this might be required as a next step. It seems that my blinking fuel warning light and my ( blink FI lights are going to be a struggle. I just filled the fuel tank so any tank removal will have to wait until I burn off some gas.
 
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The reset doesn't always work the first time. I made a jumper using a momentary on switch so it's not so fiddly.
 
Paul said:
The reset doesn't always work the first time. I made a jumper using a momentary on switch so it's not so fiddly.
Click to expand...
When I removed the extra wiring the previous owned had installed there were a number of Scotch Lock Quick Splice terminals in various places. One of these was spliced into the green and orange wire. The brown wire has a bare spot where the insulation has been opened up. I thought that he was picking up power from this wire but possibly it was wired to a switch such as you suggest.
 
Paul said:

Fault Code Reset​

Turn the engine stop switch to the RUN position.

Turn the ignition off.

Using a jumper, short the brown and green/orange wires on the diagnostic connector.

Turn the ignition on.

Remove the jumper from the diagnostic connector.

When the FI indicator lights, immediately short the brown and green/orange wires on the diagnostic connector.

Verify that the FI indicator goes off and then begins blinking.
Click to expand...
Please clear up a few questions
1) Should this be done to a warm engine?
2) Should the side stand be down for the FI light to blink?
3) With the bike running and the ECU shorted should the FI light go out?

I ask because nothing seems to happen when I jump the wires.
 
Warm or cold it does not matter
Sidestand down
Bike does not have to be running, just the red engine stop switch set to run and the ignition switched on when required.

Big_Jim59 said:
Please clear up a few questions
1) Should this be done to a warm engine?
2) Should the side stand be down for the FI light to blink?
3) With the bike running and the ECU shorted should the FI light go out?

I ask because nothing seems to happen when I jump the wires.
Click to expand...
 
I made at temporary ground button out of an old (new) Triumph horn button. It's just a spring loaded button the grounds out when pressed. I tested it with my Ohm meter. I hooked it up, followed the procedure and nothing changes. At this point I have to think that there is something hinkey going on with the air sensor circuit. Maybe a critter chewed the wires under the air box? So, I gotta run down the dragging right side cooling fan, the 9 blink FI error code and the blinking fuel gauge. None of these are show stoppers and do not keep me from enjoying the bike. They are just irritations.
 
Big_Jim59 said:
I made at temporary ground button out of an old (new) Triumph horn button. It's just a spring loaded button the grounds out when pressed. I tested it with my Ohm meter. I hooked it up, followed the procedure and nothing changes.
Click to expand...
Are you sure that one of the connector's wires is ground, most likely solid green?
 
I remembered where I got the connector for my switch. I bought some of these to make an extension harness for my gear indicator, which uses the red diagnostic plug for data.
I had leftovers so updated my switch.
If you buy one of these, just make sure the pins are in the correct locations.

Paul said:
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Click to expand...
 
It was raining today or I would have been riding. Since I failed at the code fault reset I moved on to the cooling fan. The removal of the side covers is problematic due to the fact that they are attached with mismatched fasteners. I knew that the relay worked (the left side runs) so I energized the blue/black wire and the left side fan runs. Now I gotta pull at least the right side fairing to manually test the right side fan, test the connection and possibly trace its ground.
 
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Testing is key and since I didn't know if the fan motor was bad or if the connection or ground was dodgy I needed to find out for sure.. I pulled the right side fairing. Turns out that the fan is good (kind of figured) but that the plug connector was misshaped and not making a good ground connection. It tests fine now. Since I have the right side off I am going to pull the left side and examine the connectors and push pins carefully for proper fit.

I am also installing a USB charge port in the right hand pocket. It had one at some point since there is a big quarter sized hole in the plastic but for some reason it was removed. I do not need a USB charger in the handlebar area since I rarely ride with my phone on. I find it too much of a detraction and the last thing I need is to be distracted.
 
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