I Didn't Want To Say Anything Until I Was Sure. . .

The windscreen system has a limit switch at the top and the bottom of travel, and those in turn operate a couple of relays. Power feeds from the up/down control switch through the relevant upper or lower limit switch (closed unless the limit is reached), which then energises a relay and feeds power to the motor. When the relay is de-energised it defaults to a ground connection. So an up command passes through the upper limit switch and energises the "up" relay, which feeds power to the motor, with the earth pathway back through the non-energised "down" relay.

When the screen reaches the upper limit, the motor stops.

When you press the "down" switch, power flows through the "down" limit switch and energises the "down" relay, which spins the motor the other way with the earth path back through the non-energised "up" relay.

You should be able to look for 12V at the upper limit switch (red in, black out) and then at the "up" relay pink/yellow in, which should energise the relay. The 12V feed to run the motor then arrives at the up relay on the pink wire and goes to the motor on the brown and black wire.
 

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TerryS said:
The windscreen system has a limit switch at the top and the bottom of travel, and those in turn operate a couple of relays. Power feeds from the up/down control switch through the relevant upper or lower limit switch (closed unless the limit is reached), which then energises a relay and feeds power to the motor. When the relay is de-energised it defaults to a ground connection. So an up command passes through the upper limit switch and energises the "up" relay, which feeds power to the motor, with the earth pathway back through the non-energised "down" relay.

When the screen reaches the upper limit, the motor stops.

When you press the "down" switch, power flows through the "down" limit switch and energises the "down" relay, which spins the motor the other way with the earth path back through the non-energised "up" relay.

You should be able to look for 12V at the upper limit switch (red in, black out) and then at the "up" relay pink/yellow in, which should energise the relay. The 12V feed to run the motor then arrives at the up relay on the pink wire and goes to the motor on the brown and black wire.
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Thanks for that info. I have been trying to wrap my head around how it works. I noticed that the cable end is sticking out of the top of the track on the left side (as if you are sitting on the bike) It makes a grunt when energized up. It makes no sound at all when down is energized. It is actually down as far as it will go at this point. I am thinking something is binding. I am going to try and pull the unit tomorrow and bench test it. There are some pretty monstrous speakers shoved in behind the unit and I will know more when there are removed. I have pretty major hearing loss and any speakers I could hear on the road would be considered a public nuisance. I don't do music on rides. It's just a personal preference.
 
If you don't have one already, get the factory service manual. There's a test procedure in there for the windscreen adjuster. I had the issue (as others have) where it would go up and not down. It turned out to be the relays and not the adjuster (DAMHIK). I found that out after replacing the windscreen adjuster and the problem persisted :(.
 

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I got out early this morning, before the heat of the day, and pulled the right and left side fairings. Wow! What a job. It seems that there is not a standard Honda bolt or push pin in the lot. There were rusted sheet metal screws, rusted Allen screws, automotive type push pins and a boat load of zip ties. It had to be done. I didn't find any nests but I did dump out a huge assortment of dead bugs and dry leaves.

It's a good thing the bike didn't start. The coolant bottle and the radiator are dry. The bike has sat for over 4 years but the coolant should not have vanished. I did an oil change and there was no sign of water in the oil so it didn't go there. I guess I will go through the draining procedure, fill everything and look for leaks. (Edit) a check of the coolant bottle revealed a leak. There are two mounting points, one high and one low. The lower mount was broken but right to the side it looks as if it was scored in some way and it leaks from that area. (Edit 2) The radiator is half full with green antifreeze.

I removed the speakers from the fairing. They were installed with wood screws, pop-cycle sticks (no kidding) , heavy twine and spray insulating foam. As I stated before I am not a fan of blaring music on bikes so out they came. I also removed the huge after market horn that was effectively blocking part of the radiator.

I also removed the home made radiator guard. I guess the PO had a phobia about rocks or maybe he lived on a gravel road. In any case it was huge, rusty and looked like a serious Tetanus hazard.

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I also started working my way through the non-standard wiring trying to strip it back to where the PO tied into the switched power.

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I finally got the last shred of the horror show that was the old accessory wiring removed. It made quite a pile on the floor. Along with it went the speaker amp, the speakers and the "Bad Boy" brand horn that was mostly blocking air flow to the radiator.

I pulled the electric windshield assembly to see if I could ascertain why it grunted but didn't move. I discovered a lot of issues. The bike was wrecked at some point in the past. The left side track for the electric windshield had a few deep dents in it. The shield didn't work primarily because it was stuck in place because of these dents. Careful bending and some strategic hammer work made the tracks true again and the sliders are able to do their thing without resistance.

But that's not the worst of it. The sliders are broken where they connect to the cable. They say that "necessity if the mother of invention" so I am, by necessity< becoming very inventive. I plan to drill a few, well placed, 1/16" holes and safety wire the cable back in place. No, I do not think this will last or fix anything but it might just make it possible to carefully reposition the windshield.

Oh. . . and the drive gear is stripped too!

Update: It didn't work but the motor whirs. I'll revisit this at some point in the future.
 
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I have added the wind screen mechanism to my list of things to fix in the future. I gotta make it run first and to do that i have to make it hold coolant and pump fuel. I pulled the Radiator this morning, found the thermostat and made a pretty good mess in the process. I got a used coolant bottle coming along wuth a new OEM thermostat and new Radiator cap. I just hope there are no holes in the Radiator.
 
While I am waiting on parts I thought I would poke around and fix something else. I noticed that the front brake switch was not activating the brake light. I pulled it out, Ohmed it and determined that it was at fault. That's when I rubbed my hands together in glee! I had one for my VFR days. It had been bopping around my spares and every now and then I would run onto it while I was looking for something else. "This is it" I thought. This is when I finally get to use that part. I looked and looked and I can't find it. I used a bit of electrical cleaner, cleaned the old switch and it works fine now. I have no doubt that in a few weeks or months I will be looking for something and that switch will pop up. Maddening!
 
I get it, Jim.
Like many of us, you put the spare part where it made perfect sense - at the time - and you would *always* be able to find it.
It's times like these, when it would be useful to be able to answer the question, "What was I thinking?"
If I could only remember what was I thinking, I could probably put my hands on that thing I'm looking for.
But, I know it's around here, ...somewhere.
 
I'm reading this message thread with great interest.
I like your slow and methodical approach. That rat's nest of accessory wiring looked especially challenging. There is so much potential in these bikes. I'm certain your hard work will pay off.

I'm rooting for you Big_Jim59!
 
motofisch said:
I'm reading this message thread with great interest.
I like your slow and methodical approach. That rat's nest of accessory wiring looked especially challenging. There is so much potential in these bikes. I'm certain your hard work will pay off.

I'm rooting for you Big_Jim59!
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I am trying not to get too far ahead of myself or rush things. I want to hear it fire up but I also want to cover all the bases. I did check the brake and clutch fluid (need changed), fixed the front brae switch and re glued the "A" in the front Honda badge. (You know these are not listed in the parts book!).

I did take the radiator back to the shop (potting shed) and blocked up all the pipes. I then introduced about 7psi of air pressure and sprayed the outside with soapy water to test for leaks. The only leaks were my plugs. I wanted to do this because I found a repair at the bottom of the unit. I figure it's better to check now than have to pull it all down again later. It's not a restoration but I want to fix all the neglect.

It really is frightfully hot here. I get out in the morning at 7 and I am done by 10. I want to go faster but it's just too much now.
 
Big_Jim59 said:
While I am waiting on parts I thought I would poke around and fix something else. I noticed that the front brake switch was not activating the brake light. I pulled it out, Ohmed it and determined that it was at fault. That's when I rubbed my hands together in glee! I had one for my VFR days. It had been bopping around my spares and every now and then I would run onto it while I was looking for something else. "This is it" I thought. This is when I finally get to use that part. I looked and looked and I can't find it. I used a bit of electrical cleaner, cleaned the old switch and it works fine now. I have no doubt that in a few weeks or months I will be looking for something and that switch will pop up. Maddening!
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I tired of chasing parts through boxes long ago. Installed pegboard onto a bare garage wall and hung spare parts on the pegboard, ST1100 parts on the left, ST1300 parts on the right. Each is in a clear plastic ziplock bag marked in large writing with black markers. Hardware items go into one of two parts bins...the kind with multiple clear plastic drawers. I still lose stuff, mostly when I don't return something to its proper place, but those losses have certainly decreased.
 
Oldbikefixr said:
I tired of chasing parts through boxes long ago. Installed pegboard onto a bare garage wall and hung spare parts on the pegboard, ST1100 parts on the left, ST1300 parts on the right. Each is in a clear plastic ziplock bag marked in large writing with black markers. Hardware items go into one of two parts bins...the kind with multiple clear plastic drawers. I still lose stuff, mostly when I don't return something to its proper place, but those losses have certainly decreased.
Click to expand...
That's a great plan. I have been hanging things like drill small bits and my electrical tape (which always seems to go missing at critical times.) Even then I can be looking right at something and miss it. The issue is my shop is full of parts from past projects and bikes long gone. I have a plastic tub full of Amal Monobloc carburetors and jets for a 1960 vintage triumph that I built and sold. I have another tub of, very hard to find, Buell Cyclone parts that I will never need. I have Honda VTR parts as well as VFR items for bikes long gone. There is a part of me that wants to clean it all out but the hoarder in me figures I will need it some day, and I might. The sad part is, when I finally have a need for a part I KNOW I have, it's MIA.
 
Today's small task was to replenish the hydraulic oil in the pre-load mechanism. I deemed it necessary since the knob could be turned almost to the last two clicks before any resistance was achieved. It's a simple enough procedure right? There are YouTube videos that show the process. What could go wrong? When they say to take care and catch the detent ball, they are not kidding. I took great care as I pulled the knob off slowly. I had my hand and a rag under it for good measure. I heard it go. I heard the sound as it hit something on the way down and then nothing. I looked and looked. I swept the floor. I looked within a ten foot radius. I probed the swing arm and the frame castings. I moved everything and put my tools away. It was gone. I am ashamed to say that it was just plain gone. I admitted defeat and made a new one out of an old pin. I turned it to size with my cordless drill and dressed it down with my Dremel tool. I even made a tail to fit in the spring that will keep it from falling out in the future.

The rest of the process went like clockwork. It now has resistance by the second click. Every little job takes me one step closer to the road.

(Edit 1) My new/used ST1300 coolant tank came in today. It was an ebay purchase and it is a shame that another ST had to die that mine may live but I am glad to have it. I pressure tested it, cleaned the layer of funk out of the inside by rattling a few small nuts around in it and then mounted it up. Another little project done!

(Edit 2) Yesterday I drove to Dallas (65 miles in nightmare traffic) to pick up a used seat. It is an older custom job with white piping and an embossed "Pan European" emblazoned across the back of the main seat. It's a little thread bare but it doesn't have holes in it like the one that came with the bike. The price was right at $10.

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I got my thermostat in but by that time I was elbow deep in the fuel pump. All I can say it it is nasty. It was stored with the tank near empty. Everything on the pump was rusted. The wires just fell off the pump connection and the low fuel thermister was falling apart due to corrosion. The wire wraps fell apart. The rubber boot that holds the pre-filter screen is hard and brittle and the mesh pre filter sock has something that looks like tar on it. Nasty.

I gotta do some serious tank cleaning. There is a lot of crud in there. I have never been so thankful that the pump didn't work. It would have circulated who-knows-what through the injectors. I guess I'll order more parts for the fuel pump. I kind a wish I had talked him down a little more. You know "it ran great the last time I rode it."
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I got the thermostat in and the radiator mounted while I pondered the fuel pump issue. It's now full of Honda blue coolant and ready to fire up just as soon as I find a suitable replacement thermister.
 
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Every little thing brings me closer to my goal of riding. The emergency flashers just flashed the right side. A quick clean of the switch gear with a little WD40 and the emergency flashers work on both sides now. The right side turn signal blinks faster than the left side but I figure it is a ground or bulb. It works and it will get me an inspection so I checked it off my to-do list.
 
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