Article [13] ST1300 - Pre-load Fluid Replacement

[nt650hawk]

so my "about 3/8" is in spec. TY!

measured last night. I scored .426 = 10.8 mm of preload achievement .

 

[akagi115]

I just purchased my ST1300 a week ago and I noticed that the adjustment knob had no resistance for about 12 clicks. Finding this thread showed me what I needed to do. Took me about 30 minutes to do and now the resistance is there after 2 clicks. Really appreciate the knowledge!

 

[Jjonahjamison]

I used Igofar's instructions, and with very little edit, this made my job very easy.


1. Remove Seat(s)
2. Remove Left side cover (above knob) .
3. Unscrew the knob COMPLETELY (counter clockwise)
4. Notice the preload adjuster is on a bar, follow it up to the (1) 10mm bolt holding it in place, and remove it.
5. Notice the brake line is held in two small clips on the front of the rear fender, lift it out.
6. Pull the metal mounting rod towards you until in snaps out of its resting channel.
7. Turn the preload adjuster upside down.
8. Hold unit with large adjustable wrench, remove banjo bolt
9. Wrap a papertowel around bolt and both crush washers (leave washer in place so they seat the same way as before)
10. Dump ANY fluid or goop out of preload adjuster by turning upside down and screwing the knob ALL the way into the max position.
11. Unscrew Counterclockwise completely again.
12. Take chopstick, allen key, or small screw driver and PUSH the piston back as far as it will go (about 1 inch) You'll feel/hear it thunk.
13. Fill preload unit completely up with HYDRAULIC JACK OIL flush with the top. Let air bubbles rise, then top again.
14. Insert the bolt with washers still in place and snug down.
15. Turn the knob completely to the max setting again (clockwise)
16. Unscrew the knob completely again...
17. Dump oil out again, push piston back in again, fill with oil again. You just filled the line, and emptied the preload unit.
18. Fill the preload unit one last time, then insert the banjo bolt, check the direction of the line, hold it with your adjustable wrench and tighten the bolt firmly, but not too much, because it’s a hollow, soft bolt. You just want to seat the crush washers.
19. Now you should start feeling resistance about 1 or 2 clicks in.
20 STARTING POINT: From fully soft (counter clockwise - open) turn it clockwise 4 clicks, this means you'll get one with no resistance, and a couple with some resistance, then it will get firm. \
Start at 4 (default setting is 7 clicks or 3 and a half turns from fully open)
21. Now to to the right side of the bike, and find the hole in the frame that goes through to the bottom of the rear shock. If you check with a flashlight, you'll see a small punch mark on the screw and the frame for reference.
Gently turn the screw CLOCKWISE until it lightly seats (dots should match up)
Now, turn it COUNTERCLOCKWISE 1 and 1/2 turns ONLY (This is 3 half turns).
Default setting is 2 half turns out from seated if you want to go back.
Now go take the bike for a ride on some various types of roads (hwy, mountain, twisty etc.)
Check to see if your rising and falling as much as before, or how the wind affects your ride.
Just remember, It will behave differently than your used to, so be carefull and get used to it.
***Any suggestions are done at your own risk***disclaimer..dang lawyers etc.
Check your tire pressures before you go out. I run 40 front, 42 rear for a softer ride.
Hope this helps.

Igofar

Thanks Larry (and Streaker). Just did mine today, this was so easy and quick. Mine had no resistance at all pre-service, and now has resistance by the 2nd revolution.

I will be interested to see if maintaining the proper operation of the preload adjuster has a noticeable impact on rear tire wear and life.

 

[jbird24]

I called my local Honda dealer and they looked up the factory recommended fluid, which was SS-8. Followed the directions above, which worked very well, and my preload works great. It had been less than half full and did not work well. Great advice.

Is it SS8 fork oil, or hydro jack oil. Im confused. Post a picture of the jack oil please, thanks

 

[Igofar]

Is it SS8 fork oil, or hydro jack oil. Im confused. Post a picture of the jack oil please, thanks

If you read the bottle of SS8 oil it will say not for use in rear suspension, or something along those lines.
I find hydraulic jack oil works best and lasts the longest.
.02

 

[etalors]

Some folks have just removed the two 10 mm bolts to get to the adjuster as opposed to your method of removing the support bracket. Is one better than the other? Thanks.

 

[Igofar]

Some folks have just removed the two 10 mm bolts to get to the adjuster as opposed to your method of removing the support bracket. Is one better than the other? Thanks.

One bolt is much easier to remove up top, than two behind the unit.
I've also seen folks remove the handle, loose the spring, loose the bearing, break off the bolt and bugger up the head trying to use a phillips screw driver on it instead of a JIS driver too
One bolt, a gentle tug, invert it upside down, hold it with an adjustable wrench, and remove the banjo fitting.
I just find this faster, easier, and safer.
This is just how I do it.

 

[etalors]

Thanks for the input.

On the subject of JIS driver. Does anyone know if the screw driver provided in the honda tool kit is a JIS or phillips.

 

[dduelin]

If you read the bottle of SS8 oil it will say not for use in rear suspension, or something along those lines.
I find hydraulic jack oil works best and lasts the longest.
.02

It’s “not for use in rear shock applications” because rear shocks are charged with a gas/oil emulsion under pressure and don’t use fork fluids like SS8. The Showa preloader is just a hydraulic jack in another application and jack oil, SS8, or other fork oil used in hydraulically damped forks will interchange and work the same. ATF would work as many older bikes use it.

 

[etalors]

Unless you used NEW crush washers, there is a chance your used sealing washers are weeping fluid.
I've found this on members bikes that re-used the original washers again.
You can purchase new washers from McMaster Carr.

Can you share the McMaster Carr part #'s. Thanks.

 

[dduelin]

Can you share the McMaster Carr part #'s. Thanks.

I’ve done this job on three of my bikes and just reuse the old ones. Conceivably they could leak but one set lasted at least 90,000 miles after reuse. The OEM washers are nominally 8 mm inside diameter.

 

[etalors]

The Honda p/n is 90545-300-000. I’ve done this job on three of my bikes and just reuse the old ones. Conceivably they could leak but one set lasted at least 90,000 miles after reuse. But that’s the OEM washer # for new ones.

Thanks for weighing in. However, There are two recommendations in this string. The one that you mentioned above and the one by Igofar p/n 90544-283-000. Both are shown below. Which one is more suitable.

90545-300-000 90544-283-000 (8 mm)

 

[Igofar]

Actually, the correct Honda Part number is - 90544-283-000

WASHER, SPECIAL (8MM) (Showa)
90544-283-000
Retail Price: $2.27
Your Price: $1.69

The part number given in post #178 is for a Washer, Oil Bolt, which is a crush washer used for brake line fittings, and while a genuine Honda parts counter guy might try and convince you that it will work....it would not be the correct part for your suspension component.
The correct washer can be found in the suspension section, as the front forks also use the same Special Showa 8mm washer in the front fork assembly.

 

[dduelin]

Thanks for weighing in. However, There are two recommendations in this string. The one that you mentioned above and the one by Igofar p/n 90544-283-000. Both are shown below. Which one is more suitable.

90545-300-000 90544-283-000 (8 mm)

The part number I posted just above was incorrect and I removed it. The washers are nominally 8 mm inside diameter. Here is a picture of one I removed from a ST1300 shock preloader this morning. Honda doesn't give a part number for this particular washer but as Larry recommends the one that seals the fork oil lock bolt is the correct washer to use if you replace the old ones.

 

[etalors]

Actually, the correct Honda Part number is - 90544-283-000

WASHER, SPECIAL (8MM) (Showa)
90544-283-000
Retail Price: $2.27
Your Price: $1.69

The part number given in post #178 is for a Washer, Oil Bolt, which is a crush washer used for brake line fittings, and while a genuine Honda parts counter guy might try and convince you that it will work....it would not be the correct part for your suspension component.
The correct washer can be found in the suspension section, as the front forks also use the same Special Showa 8mm washer in the front fork assembly.

This may not be a smart question. But is there a part # for the banjo bolt in case it starts to getting stripped at the top.

 

[dduelin]

This may not be a smart question. But is there a part # for the banjo bolt in case it starts to getting stripped at the top.

There are no 'not smart questions'. Honda doesn't list any part # for the banjo bolt and while I found a supplier of all things Showa in their list of 1126 items they do not list the washers or the banjo bolt. My RT uses the exact same adjuster and BMW doesn't list the hose, washers, or bolts either. Just like Honda the shock diagram doesn't reference the hose at all. Hopefully Larry can come through with the banjo bolt part number.

 

[Igofar]

As Dave found out, Showa does not list the banjo bolt (oil bolt), or any components (washers) on their website.
I've got a couple large pickle jars of banjo fittings off of ST1300's.
Honda seems to use just two different banjo bolts, over a broad range of models, from GL1800's to Dual Sports.
These parts are listed as brake parts, not suspension parts (disclaimer).
1. 90145-MS9-612 (10x22)
2. 90145-MR8-014 (10x34)
If I get time later, I'll pull a rear shock apart and measure the Oil Bolt that's in it, and compare it to both of these bolts.
If they are the same, I'd be glad to mail you one if you'd like.

 

[SMSW]

My two sense about banjo bolts. I would think any company that makes up hydraulic lines has a stock of these and would be happy to sell you one. O'Reilly Auto Pts has some for cars, and Amazon shows quite a few. You might need some dimensions and measurements, but these things are available, if not a Honda part.

 

[etalors]

Larry,
Thanks for looking into this. The information will be welcome. I don't need the banjo right now, but had to tighten this bolt quite a bit yesterday to stop a leak. I did not change the washers. So the thought crossed my mind about getting a spare bolt just in case, only to find out it does not have its own part #. Hence my inquiry. Since I lost some fluid, I plan to refill the fluid in the next few days with new washers. Hopefully I will not have to apply a lot of torque to get a good seal with the new washers. Luckily the washers are available at the dealer and don't have to be special ordered.

 

[jbird24]

If you read the bottle of SS8 oil it will say not for use in rear suspension, or something along those lines.
I find hydraulic jack oil works best and lasts the longest.
.02

Thanks Larry. I went with the Hydro, afterall. I didnt have any ss8 left