Re-baking my ST1300 (Almost full redoing)

[leondante]

Hello again. Parts begin to arrive, and I have some here that I'm sure you'll like. This idea is for knowing the real pressure used when braking. It's not that useful, but its kind of nice.
The working presure of the common PTFE hose for the AN3 standard is 250 bar. The bursting pressure, says the advertise, is 470 bar. So, this nice gauge is good enough, even lights up in the dark. The red part starts at 250 bar, so it's perfect.
Anyways I'm sure that around 30 bar are used for a common braking time and around 80 for an emergency one. We'll know hopefully soon if this is true. I can't wait to get the rest of the parts so I can start working again. By the way I'm kind of out-of-working-mind because I am fixed on fixing the brake lines fixture stuff.
I think that the dude inside my head won't work again until solving the brake lines problem. I'm stuck on it by the moment. After fixing that, I'm sure I'll run as hard as before the fixing proccess again.

Getting back again to the gauge thingy, it's for oxygen bottles for diving. I'll need to put brake fluid inside of it with syringe and needle, so it doesn't get air inside. I'm no sure about the materials inside of it, but I hope that the brake fluid doesn't destroy it, or not too soon. Anyways I'm kinda sure it doesn't contains plastic. I don't know if that's a good thing, as brake fluid can destroy some metallic materials in no time. If the thing gets stuck I'm taking it off at the very day I notice it, as it could be a bad sign of corrosion or so.

The gauge was around 3€, the L tube around 10 and the double banjo screw with bleeding thing other 2 euros. Hope it works, would be great and a cool gadget for a weirdo like me.

I thought about testing just the master pump of the front brake to see the maximum pressure it can give and how much pushes a common touch for braking normally, but happens that they sent me a wrong "L" part, with M10x1,25 thread instead of the M10x1 that the gauge has. And I won't re-thread again the part, as there are ones with that thread I need, and that would weaken the thread. So I'm returning this one and I already bought it again, hope this time the new one arrives well.

 

[Igofar]

Please tell me you just painted the brake calipers with the pistons still in them, because your going to tear them apart and rebuild them when the paint cures.

 

[leondante]

Please tell me you just painted the brake calipers with the pistons still in them, because your going to tear them apart and rebuild them when the paint cures.

I painted the calipers after cleaning everything inside with brake fluid and outside with ultrasonic cleaner and extremely hard industrial soap, pistons and seals cleaned just with brake fluid. Also after masking properly the copper washers seatings and all brake fluid involved hole. Even didn't unmasked them yet, waiting for the parts to arrive in order to mount it all, avoiding corrosion because oxidation of the brake fluid inside. I wouldn't consider to use calipers painted inside, where the brake fluid touches, as it would be impossible not to damage the surfaces taking the paint off, I think this is a good paint and wouldn't strip properly or easily. I'm waiting for the rear caliper seals to mount it and paint it too, all mounted and properly masked.

The paint outside won't do anything to the brakes. The small amount inside the pistons (outside the brake fluid circuit but maybe over the dust seal) cannot do a thing to the brakes and will be trapped between the brake pads and the piston, at the most would become dust. Isn't it? The worst chance is that and that the amount on the rubber dust seal would fall off.

 

[leondante]

Hello everyone.

Parts just arrived so I'm getting back to work.

Front fork is ready, nice an sweeet, with all full new bushes and oil and stuff. As new. Also the new bearings of the front wheel are in it, so it could get back to the floor and stand again over its wheels. It was a nice moment when I took from her the small cart I made for moving it around the garage, as it was the first time since october that it was again standing on its own. Such nice moment.

Today I painted the rear brake caliper after putting the new seals inside it and tightening the bolts to the specified torque with thread glue of medium strenght. As the front ones, I sealed properly all the holes so the paint doesn't get into sealing surfaces or inside the brake fluid circuit.

Also I cleaned the clutch master cylinder.

ADVICE TO EVERYONE: DO NOT LEAVE OLD BRAKE FLUID INSIDE YOUR MOTORCYCLE. PURGE IT EVERY 2 YEARS. THAT INCLUDES CLUTCH SYSTEM.

The piston of the clutch was corroed. The old brake fluid ate the aluminium. Damn thing was rotten to the flesh. Gladly the corrosion only damaged the not covered surfaces, so where the seals sit was not damaged. It took long time with wire brush to take all the aluminium rotten dust from the piston surface. Clean your stuff if you want it to last BEFORE it gets damaged. Even being corroed, the 95% was in place, and the seals seatings were OK, so the piston can be used, yet...

After that I made a nice flush of the clutch and it started to work nice and smooth and all the good things. It was a strong but small joyful moment. Tested it changing gears and turning the wheel, worked GREAT.

This tuesday I'm going to a workshop to ask for the sleeves to be done for the hydraulic terminals for the hoses, as I didn't find anywhere a part like what I need. I noticed that there are two kinds of hoses in our motorcycles, and they use different sleeves and hose sizes. I'm happy that only one of the kind of hoses are in bad shape, the other ones are perfect. So less work. I'll need to weld eight sleeves in order to change four damaged hoses. Also I'm working in the manual screwing press for closing those sleeves.

Next thing, the wiring. In the pictures of today you have the brutal situation of the wires. Those are the worst ones. I'm fixing those soon as I have to put them before anything else over the engine, so soon I'm doing a detailed report on it so people could know how to fix such disaster. After that the cooling system will take its place.

I don't know if I'm finishing it for march, buy I'll try.

P.D.: Acetone (nail polish remover main ingredient) don't work so good on brake fluid. Gasoline neither. I'm looking for a good solvent for it. These ones don't work so well. I tried with pure industrial acetone and gasoline without success. I don't want to spend brake fluid but maybe will be the only solution for taking out the goo inside the pumps parts. Somehow, Palpatine retur.... Somehow I cleaned the clutch and rear brake pumps with success using gasoline. I'm tired of gasoline being my main body fragance. Still a lot of stuff to clean with it.

 

[leondante]

Here you have the rubber parts of our brake calipers. You won't believe how many parts for our bikes you have in AliExpress. You won't believe how many parts from AliExpress you are buying from local stores as "specific, heavenly quality parts" for your bikes.

I am not being paid by AliExpress.

https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4000262027848.html

ANOTHER ONE, with the dust seals for the main cylinders of the clutch and front brake. Maybe rear brake too:

https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005003258511703.html

 

[ST1100Y]

I checked a couple official Honda local stores, webike, japanbaiku, partzilla, and the one with cheapest stuff was megazip.net, with around 30% less than the others, except local ones that were a bit like 40% less. Around 60 euros less, despite I have to see if customs eviscerate taxes from me when the parts arrive to Spain yet. They ship from UEA and Japan straight away, but I think they are from USA, not sure.

As megazip is US warehouse you'll likely facing ~25% import VAT...

 

[leondante]

As megazip is US warehouse you'll likely facing ~25% import VAT...

They contacted me because they had everything in the Japanese warehouse. They have US, EUA, Japan and EU warehouses. I paid 5 euros for taxes at the end. So it was amazing, they have impressive customer attention and care.

 

[ST1100Y]

I paid 5 euros for taxes at the end. So it was amazing, they have impressive customer attention and care.

hmm... interesting... Spain is in the EC though...
When I receive orders from Japan (or the US) I've to pay 20% VAT + 5% customs processing fee...

 

[leondante]

hmm... interesting... Spain is in the EC though...
When I receive orders from Japan (or the US) I've to pay 20% VAT + 5% customs processing fee...

I expected around 50 euros tax. I really don't know why it was that low. The last thing I bought from Japan was the alternator for this bike and it was like 140 euros taxes for the 660 euros part.

 

[PanRider1300]

I think that those from Ali are not the same as from Honda. The shape is different and their is a metal ring inside the rubber.

BOOT COMP. for ST1300 2006 (6) USA - order at CMSNL

✓Good to order: BOOT COMP. ✓Manufacturercode: 45504-410-003 ✓Quality part

www.cmsnl.com

 

[leondante]

I think that those from Ali are not the same as from Honda. The shape is different and their is a metal ring inside the rubber.

BOOT COMP. for ST1300 2006 (6) USA - order at CMSNL

✓Good to order: BOOT COMP. ✓Manufacturercode: 45504-410-003 ✓Quality part

www.cmsnl.com

As a dude from Dubai with a Ferrari F50 said, 'I'm not that rich'. One piece from Honda is 9 euros plus delivery and taxes. Five kits that, maybe, could do the trick was like 3 euros everything.

We'll see if it has that metal ring, I'm sure it is there and would be a nono if it doesn't, as it's necessary for sticking the piece in place of course.

AE may not have the greatest quality but is saving a lot of expensive motorcycles from going to the trash, as it's making affordable fixing them.

My not-so-good economic situation/brutally-expensive-Honda-parts forced me to check out non-vital parts like this along years. You wouldn't believe how good some of them are and they are getting better. Sometimes you find parts only there that are essential, and better working not as worthy than not working at all.

Notice that I bought Honda parts for really important ones, as seals for brake calipers or fork bushings. I try my best not to compromise security.

 

[ST1100Y]

One piece from Honda is 9 euros plus delivery and taxes.

Yeah... but...
That OEM Honda item is made to specs, precise fit, fulfill its task in protecting the items behind, oil, fuel, temperature and UV resistant, and will last about a decade...
The € 3,- copies are made of unknown materials and likely fail/crumble within a year/one riding season, leaving other parts exposed to corrosion, leading to cascading wear and failures...
(even mid-priced pattern parts from eBay turn out to be just crap...)

Its a € 18,900,- touring motorcycle, not an € 1800,- Chinese 50cc scooter you might get at Lidl...

 

[leondante]

Yeah... but...
That OEM Honda item is made to specs, precise fit, fulfill its task in protecting the items behind, oil, fuel, temperature and UV resistant, and will last about a decade...
The € 3,- copies are made of unknown materials and likely fail/crumble within a year/one riding season, leaving other parts exposed to corrosion, leading to cascading wear and failures...
(even mid-priced pattern parts from eBay turn out to be just crap...)

Its a € 18,900,- touring motorcycle, not an € 1800,- Chinese 50cc scooter you might get at Lidl...

If you pay me those parts I'm glad to use them. I would need around 1000 € for satisfying Honda's desires for the non-essential parts I need. In the meanwhile, as I can NOT pay such amounts, will be better those cheap rubbers that do the work perfectly than NOTHING, my only other option.

I know the materials they use, is rubber. Close enough for this purpose. Don't worry, I'm taking care of it for changing it on time. Be sure it will last like 5 years, it's not my first rodeo with this kind of products.

If you think this won't fit the motorcycle, I don't think so. Lets see when the parts arrive. I'm showing it here.

I paid 500 euros for this motorcycle, not even close to 1800, so...

I have spent more than 10 years destroying professional and "cheap" tools, my best time doing it was as a industrial plumber. Lidl (Parkside or their manufacturer, Kompernass) is the best in quality/price balance of everything I've used for long time.

I'm not taking my bike to the scrapyard just because there's some people out there that hurt their feelings because I won't buy Honda overpriced x 50 stuff for non-essential purposes. Makes no sense. I'm doing what I can.