M77 Replaces Moly 60- Apparently So

scharfg said:
No luck at NAPA for the Loctite (well the could get me a pound of it for $176 Cnd in a few days!). We only have one NAPA as our town is only 80k population.

Lordco can get the 8oz container in a few days for $70 which I’m willing to pay.

But I’ll have to do it on the road, is that possible by a mechanical newb…?
Click to expand...
Loctite 51048 can also be obtained at Aucklands Granger Canada. I see there isn’t one in Prince George, but perhaps they can ship. I paid around $65 in Calgary for a small container that is a lifetime supply.
 
Found the 8oz Loctite (Henkel) LB 8012 (65% moly stated on back of jar) at a local non franchise parts store! :run1:

Retail was $147Cnd, (double NAPA price), but they did me a “favour” and reduced it to $100 so I bought it, (4 life time supply!), bird in the hand as they say.

It expires April 2026 and has a different part number - 226696, perhaps this is a Cnd number?

Now to find a you tube video on how to do it for newbs!
 
Last edited:
Don't waste your time with you tube video's and ST service stuff, there are so many bad one's out there, you'll be chewing on Rolaids.
Check the Article section of this forum, and you'll find more than enough information to do it yourself, the correct way.
Cartoon Recap:
Loosen 4 bolts on muffler bands
Remove 4 hanger bolts on mufflers, rotate out of the way
Loosen 14 mm stopper plug
Loosen 27 mm axle nut
Remove pad hanger pin
Remove brake pads
Slide axle out
Remove rear caliper out of the way
(remove 4 bolts from rear fender-2 underneath, 2 by rear plate)
Remove rear fender
Lift wheel to the left and roll it out from the bike.
Clean everything off splines, male/female
Apply new paste
Reverse assembly
Torque stopper plug 51 ft lbs (BEFORE YOU TIGHTEN THE AXLE)
Torque axle nut 80 ft lbs (AFTER THE STOPPER PLUG HAS BEEN TIGHTENED FIRST)

Enjoy your trip, ride safe.
 
I found out the mechanic also used the Pennzoil on the drive shaft splines…

He said I just have to unbolt the 4 bolts and pull it backwards to clean and apply the moly, any tips on putting it back together with the wiggly U joint…?

ps: I got the tire off and both sides of the splines are covered in Pennzoil grease. The valleys between the splines on the bike side are full of grease.

Can I use kerosene to help clean them out?

Do I apply the moly to both set of splines (ie: tire side and drive line side?
 
Last edited:
IIRC, the splines get a moly GREASE, not paste. You can use any solvent you want to clean off the old stuff. I also remember some guys have said they used an extreme pressure grease on the splines - not advocating it, just telling you what's been written. In a pinch, I'd probably use a mix of moly paste and an EP grease - name brand - say 50/50 until i could get the right stuff. For the wheel splines, however, the moly paste is a must - no playing around here.

I used to use a Q-tip - cotton covered swab to clean the splines. Also a rag dipped in acetone. Just don't get your solvents on rubber pieces/seals. They don't like pteroleum products.
 
Thanks for the reply SMSW.

So if I understand you, the Pennzoil 302 EP2 extreme pressure grease the mechanic used on the shaft splines is okay..?

I’m sitting in the garage afraid to take the final drive apart as I’m not sure I’ll be able to line the splines back up with the drive shaft.

I was going to put the Loctite moly on them!

Whew looks like you saved me from doing a bad thing

So I’m going to moly up the wheel/final drive splines and put the rear wheel back on and enjoy my trip.

Sound good..?

Ps: what is the right stuff to put on the drive shaft splines after I get back?

Thanks everyone!
 
Last edited:
The splines on the front of the driveshaft use EP Moly grease.
Unless there was a problem or issue in this area, I have no idea why your guy pulled the driveshaft assembly and even touched this area?
My only concern would be if he didn't seat the rubber seal correctly in the U-Joint area, or caused a leak around the transmission shaft (just keep an eye out for oil leaks in this area)
I would NOT pull the shaft just to check his work, as there is not much he could have done to damage anything in there, and if he used EP grease, your good.
I would make sure he torqued the 4 nuts on the driveshaft housing correctly, as most mechanics just use a box end wrench, and you don't want that coming apart on your vacation.
If you want to do your wheel CORRECTLY, clean and apply the paste on both the MALE splines (on hub of wheel) and the FEMALE splines (inside the housing)
And while you have your rear wheel off, and sitting on the ground, you'll notice there is a very large C clip around the perimeter of the hub. Remove this clip, and lift the spline assembly off the wheel, and clean this area, and apply the paste as seen in the pictures I provided.
When you replace the clip, make sure the SHARP edge is facing outward. You can identify this by looking at the end cut of the clip, the sharper edge will be longer than the rounded edge.
 
Thanks Igofar!

I just asked him to lube the splines as I read that was important to do when putting a “new to me bike” to do maintenance list together, my bad for not being specific with him to only do the wheel splines!

I’ll keep an eye on possible seal leaks.

I moly loobed the female and male splines, with the moly basically filling up the valleys between the splines.

Thanks again for getting back to me so quickly!

I can put it back together and hit the road south now!
 
The loading of the driveshaft splines is different than the loading of the rear wheel splines, hence the different lubes. I cannot recall anyone reporting a problem with drive shaft wear (doesn't mean it has not happened - just my memory is faulty or its a rare occurrance), but there have been a number of pictures posted of trashed rear wheel splines due to the wrong moly paste (or none) being used. It sounds to me like you, @scharfg, should be good to go on your trip.
 
Igofar said:
And while you have your rear wheel off, and sitting on the ground, you'll notice there is a very large C clip around the perimeter of the hub. Remove this clip, and lift the spline assembly off the wheel, and clean this area, and apply the paste as seen in the pictures I provided.
When you replace the clip, make sure the SHARP edge is facing outward. You can identify this by looking at the end cut of the clip, the sharper edge will be longer than the rounded edge.
Click to expand...

Hi Igofar, can you point me in the direction of the maintenance/pictures of what to do once the large C clip is removed (how best to do that?)...?

l've spent the last 1.5 hrs searching for it with no luck!
 
scharfg said:
Hi Igofar, can you point me in the direction of the maintenance/pictures of what to do once the large C clip is removed (how best to do that?)...?

l've spent the last 1.5 hrs searching for it with no luck!
Click to expand...
This may help, post #1, the first few pictures. A screwdriver for the ring if you don't have the pliers.

Article [13] - ST1300 - Rear Flange Bearing Replacement | ST1300 Articles

Please: This is my first try at this, those with more experience please chime in with your tips and tricks that might help make this a better procedure. Rear Flange Bearing RR Step 1 Remove Ring - This is pretty simple, some needle nose pliers will work, the ring does not have a lot of...
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com
 
Willsmotorcycle said:
This may help, post #1, the first few pictures. A screwdriver for the ring if you don't have the pliers.

Article [13] - ST1300 - Rear Flange Bearing Replacement | ST1300 Articles

Please: This is my first try at this, those with more experience please chime in with your tips and tricks that might help make this a better procedure. Rear Flange Bearing RR Step 1 Remove Ring - This is pretty simple, some needle nose pliers will work, the ring does not have a lot of...
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com
Click to expand...
Thanks Will....still having trouble typing.
 
Ok, is M77 assembly paste ok to use on the spline ? The Service manual 2003-2006 16-12 refers to it as paste. I bought a tube of this paste as it was referred to as M60 replacement. I’m really confised by this thread. Some say yay and some say nay. I’m not after a religious argument, I just want to know if this stuff is good to use!
 
You have to make up your own mind. I did quite a bit of research on it and contacted Honda, Dow Corning (who I believe made the original M77), Rocol and various other companies.
You'll find it if you need it. I use the Rocol Dry Moly Paste - it is the same as the ASP recommended in the Honda service manual (rocol said they just changed the name), and it has worked well for many years since my M60 ran out. But many others use the Loctite 8102 which seems to be just as good.
 
Last edited:
CruisingDog said:
Ok, is M77 assembly paste ok to use on the spline ? The Service manual 2003-2006 16-12 refers to it as paste. I bought a tube of this paste as it was referred to as M60 replacement. I’m really confised by this thread. Some say yay and some say nay. I’m not after a religious argument, I just want to know if this stuff is good to use!
Click to expand...
And there's your problem CD. You won't get a universal yay or nay.
I can say from experience Loctite 8012 does the job that I asked it to do. Others will agree, others will disagree. Others won't give a monkeys.
From recollection I used 77 once when I had nowt else and it seemed to work OK, but also bear in mind that in the UK we are in there every 5000 miles for tyre changes, you probably won't be.
Just use a guaranteed 40 % plus Moly and ride.
If you can find out 77 complies with this requirement then I'd say use it, if you can't then don't.
Simple really.
To sum up, there are two types of motorcycle tinkerer.
Those that use the recommended and proven products.
And those that can't sleep at night.
Good luck.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom