H4 LED - 2018 Evitek, F2 replaces G6

ST Gui said:
Unless I'm misremembering it looks like your link now shows a different product than when you first posted. This one is currently $20 not $37.
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Now it's not showing anything when I click on that link because I had purchased the last pair. I do remember a $20 pair of LEDs that spiderman did not think anything of at all.
The Safecgo LEDs I bought matched the $67 pair at Amazon in the specifications.
 
moddy said:
Now it's not showing anything when I click on that link because I had purchased the last pair.
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Yeah now I get the same Sorry Charlie page. Amazon still has the $50 pair you linked to available. Not as good as $37 but still a decent deal.
 
Catmandu2 said:
Hope you get your replacements quickly,,, and have no further issues, Pete. It will be interesting to see how good their support is,,,, Keep us posted,,, Cat'
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Been 15 days still waiting for the slow boat from China. Glad I had an extra bulb. Hope this 1 LED burning out of the 2 on low beam is a fluke. They really are good bulbs with bright well aimed light with a straight line cutoff for low beam.
 
Hope mine r on the same boat. Been 12 days for me.


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Just heard from Cindy. They shipped on the 22nd. She provided a tracking number. Should be on the slow boat by now.


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So, somehow I spaced the model on the Safego H4 headlights were [FONT=&quot]F2-YD-H4. So I lucked that, because it wasn't in the title, it was in the description. The seller doesn't have any more for 37.00 and a quick search of eBay didn't reveal any less than 50.00. The seller I bought them from was reservilla, if you wanted to check back periodically.[/FONT]
 
For the ST1100's refractive glass headlight lens with its light-throwing dependency on the exact bulb filament location, is the F2 a good choice? Or, is it better to get a European headlight and use high output halogen H4s?
 
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STraymond said:
For the ST1100's refractive glass headlight lens with its light-throwing dependency on the exact bulb filament location, is the F2 a good choice? Or, is it better to get a European headlight and use high output halogen H4s?
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At post #122 of this thread was an install on an ST1100. With a follow up question for how they worked, he mentioned he didn't ride much at night, but I think you'll be fine. I used the shims with his installation but I'm about to install my F2's on the 1300 without them.
 
A pair of Safego LEDs for $37 installed. Reading the notes on how to detach the bulb in the ST1300 is helpful because it doesn't come out like the 1100, there's tabs you have to squeeze together to release the hold on the blades. Speaking of the blades on the LEDs, I trimmed approximately 3/16 of an inch off of the 3 prong tab since inserting them in the socket wouldn't seat completely and I felt it was a risk for something too short the exposed plug. Not a big deal used some tin snips to shorten them a little bit and was able to seat the plug completely in the socket.
 
STraymond said:
For the ST1100's refractive glass headlight lens with its light-throwing dependency on the exact bulb filament location, is the F2 a good choice? Or, is it better to get a European headlight and use high output halogen H4s?
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Ray,

You would be pleased with the F2. They are a great bulb. If I had to do it again I would choose the F2 again. Closest thing to a halogen bulbs construction. Be sure to use the shims. Without them the bulb will not seat correctly, as the case with any H4 bulb in the strange oem socket.
 
The Cheese said:
Ray,

You would be pleased with the F2. They are a great bulb. If I had to do it again I would choose the F2 again. Closest thing to a halogen bulbs construction. Be sure to use the shims. Without them the bulb will not seat correctly, as the case with any H4 bulb in the strange oem socket.
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Thanks, Michael. I may try the F2 in the recently acquired Euro-version headlight (no shim required).

Ray
 
Ah. I didn't realize that you already had the Euro spec headlight. Any reason why you are changing it out? Just the beam pattern change or something happen to break your current housing?
 
I love Ecodes, at least on cars. Much better focus and sharper cutoffs. Our lights have to have enough scatter to light overhead signs. In europe, the signs are lit. It never even occured to me to get replcements for the ST. I've got Hella Ecodes on my motor home. I had Cibie Z beams on my VW rabbit, and a newer version of Cibie E codes on my Miata. I've got a spare set of F2s to put in the MH but I haven't had the chance to put them in yet.
 
Took my new F2s for a short ride round the neighborhood after nightfall today. I didn't want to stop!

And, for the first time ever, I turned the headlight positioner to a setting less than maximum up.

These things put a LOT of light on the road. Coverage was curb to curb, in a generously deep box. The high beams were lighting up signs from hundreds of feet away. Yes signs are intended to be highly reflective but still...

My thanks to Andrew Shadow and ST Gui who suggested the change to LED lights, rather than replacing the headlight wiring harness as I had originally planned. Although getting more light on the road wasn't the problem I was trying to solve, I'm of the opinion that there's no such thing as too much of it, provided it's in the right spot.
 
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The Cheese said:
Ah. I didn't realize that you already had the Euro spec headlight. Any reason why you are changing it out? Just the beam pattern change or something happen to break your current housing?
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Michael -

No, my USA-spec headlight is still intact. I got the Euro-spec based on the performance recommendations of other ST1100 owners. The headlight just arrived on Wednesday, and will be installed soon.
 
Now that I have a headlight that resembles a propane lantern the size of a squirrel zapper, where do you have your headlights aimed. Arriving home in the dark last night I left my lights on long enough to walk 30yds or so in front of it and turned around to resemble the view of on coming traffic. Though there are no red flags with how the light is projected, I'd liked to know how you figured out where to point them. Additionally, I think I high beams could be used as a mechanism of self defense.
Maybe you could describe how far from the bike brightest pattern begins, of if you're 10 feet from the garage door or wall on a level surface how high up the wall your pattern falls.
 
This procedure was written for sloppy DOT headlights.
I would not adjust them so low, If you do the math 2 inches at 25 feet will only go 400 feet. Which at modern speeds this is not far enough. with the better cutoff of the H4 system you could set it much higher and not bother oncoming traffic. The ST1300 has a knob on the dash that will allow fine adjust depending on loading of the bike. I do not know if the ST1100 has this feature. As long as the cutoff is just below the horizontal line you should be optimum and be good to others....

I set my knob to 6 0'clock and have adjusted the beam to be on the horizon with me on the bike. I ride my bike with the knob down one click (5 o'clock) at night.....
 
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I won't be able to use a specific setting on the eletric adjust dial compared to someone else. When I came into my ride I found the right side headlight curiously low compared to left side. So, I spent a lot of time turning the dial specific to raising only the right side to match. There is a good chance my stock alignment isn't the same anymore. It's ok, just looking for direction to not offend oncoming traffic.
 
Yes those are the F2 LEDs.... yes on the ring for the ST1100 (so I have been told) and Supra Saber uses the SD modulator with his....
 
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