H4 LED - 2018 Evitek, F2 replaces G6

I recently took my VTR1000F in for its 6-monthly "warrant of fitness" check. This is third-party mandatory requirement for all road vehicles in New Zealand, a basic check that the lights, brakes, tyres, suspension, steering and exhaust etc all function to make the vehicle reasonably safe. A bit of a PITA for older (pre 2000) vehicles as is 6 monthly, out to two years for newer vehicles. You can't register the vehicle for road use with passing this inspection, fortunately only takes 10-20 minutes to do.

I was handed an advisory notice this time around for my headlight. I've had Cyclops LED bulb in there for a couple of years now with no issues (I am a 100% LED convert) but our lighting regulations have been changed this year, and from 1 June it is now illegal to mount an LED bulb in a headlight fitting that was not originally designed for it. That would apply to my VTR, VFR and ST, all of which now have LED bulbs in them. The inspector (who is a helpful and decent guy, and a motorcyclist) was apologetic but apparently there were concerns about the excessive brightness of LEDs causing dazzle. He agreed that bikes need all the visibility help that we can get, but the rules are the rules. (he is however helpfully flexible about exhaust noise).

I know for a fact (because I have looked very carefully) that my lights are not poorly patterned or causing undue glare, so I will continue to use LEDs, but will have to endure the joy of switching back to dull old halogens in time for each inspection.

The latest LED bulbs are actually really well designed to mimic halogen, the most recent that I bought now use a cast heat sink in place of the cooling fan, and use narrow strips of emitters that exactly mimic the position of the filaments in a halogen, and they also have well-designed shrouds for low beam cut-off. I still think they are a sensible upgrade for older bikes.
 
The latest LED bulbs are actually really well designed to mimic halogen... I still think they are a sensible upgrade for older bikes.

+1 But I can appreciate the legal requirements. Not every driver/rider is concerned about the affects of increased lighting on other drivers.

Halogen bulbs went through similar growing pains but were eventually accepted (with qualification) as factory and replacement lighting.

We're seeing the same thing happen here. The wheels of government always turn more slowly than those of transportation.
 
My F2's continue to perform very well,,, for a couple of months now,,, including the heat wave of the past 10 days or so. Daytime use has been modulated on both high and low beams,, so fan function has been affected,, but so far that does not seem to matter to the F2's,,, Cat'
 
Has anyone been in touch with Cindy at Evitek lately? I emailed her 2 weeks ago to order a pair of F2s and never heard back. I used cindy@evitekhid.com. Is that still the best way to order these?

I emailed her using the email address above, at 9:36pm EDT June 21st and got a reply within minutes. Two hours and a few email exchanges later, the deal was done. On the 26th I got a follow-up from her that my bulbs were on the way and providing a tracking number but no shipper name.

At 6:41am EDT on Friday 6/29 I sent a follow-up email asking what shipper I should be checking, but I have not received a response. I just sent another follow-up (I think- something odd happened and my latest message is not shown in the gmail thread where I expected it). Will let you know when / if I get a reply.
 
Has anyone tried the Cyclops G10s? Their previous version could be ordered with an ST1300 compatible base.
 
Try this tracking service,,, they claim to search 170 shippers,,, Cat'

Thanks Cat. As it turns out, Cindy sent me the same link (with my tracking number already included) about 6 hours ago (11-something PM EDT on July 4th).

So, @MV_Dave: you may want to follow up with another email to Cindy. Maybe she missed your first one? Allow for the time difference and send it around 6 or 7 PM your time- I think that works out to sometime the following morning, Guangzhou time, and you may catch her toward the start of her work day.
 
Moddy and I (mosly Moddy) installed the F2's on the ST1100 today at the IN garage event.

I removed the windshield, garnish, and the plate underneath it so we could see the back of the headlight. We then removed the plastic piece underneath the headlight that is held on with 2 screws. Moddy could then gain access to the bulbs from underneath.

First, he removed both bulbs. Then he split the mounting ring from the actual LED bulb. He filed the uneeded tabs so it would fit. He used the a shim and installed the mounting bracket into the headlight socket, and clipped it down He then installed the rubber boot. Once the boot was in place, he slid the bulb into the mounting bracket. He oriented it so the power cord was in the 6 O'Clock position. Repeat for the other side. Thanks also to the other Master Chief Ural rider who tied the ballasts underneath the cowel with wax coated "string" that is made for tying off wires.

We tried adjusting the bulb by turning the fan housing. It ended up being best the way it was.

Moddy, did I get it right?

Yep. Sorry it took so long for a reply. What really made the install easy is it is the exact same fitment and fiddle as replacing H4's with the tabs cut off. You may not be comfortable with a farkle that has wires and connections but the LED ballast plugs into the OE bulb socket for the juice. I'd like to see a light pattern from a night shot sometime.
 
I found this in eBay, CREE COB H4 HB2 9003 1300W 195000LM LED Headlight Kit Hi/Lo Power Bulbs 6000 Pretty sure it's not 1300W. I like them, and would like to install them now, as I ride any time of the day or night and more visibility is well, more visibility. If someone can shed some like on the description, knowing full well they do not draw this much, would be appreciated.
 
I guess information gets lost in long threads.

Leds with COB's like the one you are looking at will create a flood light and put a lot of light close in. If you look at their low beam picture there is a lot of glare right in front of the bike/car and it is hard to see far down the road. This type of lighting is good for technical off road where you are going slow and need to see everything around and near to you. But if you are going down the autobahn or just a USA highway at the speed limit and you want to see Bambi, a Moose or even a Wabbit lurking far down the road. The focus of the F2 with its properly placed Leds will put the light where you want it.

Also that light (post 170) does not have a proper shield and light from the low beam emitters will spill into the high beam part of the H4 headlamp and cause a lot of glare to on coming traffic.

Power and lumen numbers are very exaggerated by oversea's vendors. I am certain that you will be disappointed with that light...

At a true 30 watts measured the F2 from Evitek is still the standard by which I measure everything else. The M1 is simpler but it is 25 watts. The E1 has no fan (I will be getting one in the next few days.....)

The F2 lights up the road so well, I do not need use all the Aux lights that I have on my bike.
 
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moddy said:
Is the reason you've chosen an E1 because it is better than the F2?

He might be just evaluating it for now. As good as any one design is there's almost always some room for improvement.

spidey says the F2 is a better bulb than the previous G6 but that if you have the G6 bulbs it's not really cost effective to move to the F2s.

I imagine he'll tell us what he thinks about the E1s after spending some time with them. I like the idea of a fanless bulb. OTOH passive cooling (heatsink convection) for LEDs doesn't inspire my confidence at least not yet.
 
Speaking of evaluating I want to shoot you these links. It's not to do research for me, it's that I understand some of the terms so far as to suggest these and have been known to trial new things and carve my own way with techniques and upgrades. Especially when it comes to an acceptable level of quality and less money, great motivators.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AUXBEAM-F-...evitek+f2+h4&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0|0
and
https://www.ebay.com/itm/C6F-H4-Hig...+Kit+6000K&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313
 
Feel free to do all the experimenting that you want. I did the same about 4 years ago.

I have a bucket full of H4 led bulbs. I wasted a small fortune trying to find something that works. No, I am not rich, I will have to work until I am 70 before I can retire... but I am an engineer that knows how the H4 optical system works. I knew that I had to help if I wanted to get a H4 LED bulb that works. So that is what I did. The Evitek G6 got us into the ball park, the F2, M1 and even the E1 have made small improvements. There is still some minor tweaks that needs to be done. I only got the E1 for measurements and to give technical feed back to Evitek.

G6 is 22 watts, less focus, taller beam
F2 is 30 watts, fan, power wart in cable, (still my favorite, because its 30 watts)
M1 is 25 watts, fan, no power wart ( This one is better (simpler) than the F2, but why did they give up 5 watts )
E1 is 20 watts, no fan, no power wart, needs to be in direct air flow. If hot power drops to 14 watts....

The bulbs that you pointed to, the first one is not worth your time, the second one has a COB (large LED) which is usable off road.

This is my thread that has some useful information.

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/sh...dify-H4-led-to-reduce-glare-ST1300&highlight=

My F2 has about 9000 miles on it and is surviving the triple digit heat that we had last week (max 118 F)...
 
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Just ordered the F2 from Cindy. Looking forward to observing the difference.


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My F2 has about 9000 miles on it and is surviving the triple digit heat that we had last week (max 118 F)...

+1 on the heat tolerance. My F2's have endured the recent heatwaves without complaint. Earlier,,, I was using my F2's modulated with the SDC unit on both beams. The fans on the F2's were also modulated,,, and I estimate that the pulsing of the fans reduced their effectiveness a bunch,, like maybe %50. Recently,,, I switched to the Kisan modulator for LED's,,, and the fans are much less affected,, losing maybe %15. Plus, this is only on low beams,, with my setup. So I am not worried about cooling, or F2 heat tolerance, at this point anymore,,, Cat'
 
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