What did you do with your ST1100/ST1300 today?

I’ve watch them do it on a couple of occasions and they actually pry the cap off. The trick is in crimping it back down so that it’s still usable.

On one of the other forums there a few postings on the topic with pictures, from what I remember.
 
I found the cap removal tool from the left panel lock implosion thread. I had completely missed the last few posts.

a25b6b25-0814-4c85-bdb5-40fb61c2cf22-jpeg.234625



From this pic the cap looks unmolested:

88859ace-0434-44a2-bb98-b7a81185dc7b-jpeg.237588



The simplest thing for me to do is just get a new lock for the right side and have a key cut with both locks on one key. Or live with two keys. Even the latter isn't a deal breaker. Gotta say that right panel look looks factory.
 
I found it easier to simply modify the locks for my GL. They come apart really easily and it’s very simple to file the little keyways or whatever they’re called, to work with the existing key.

When I ran out of time, I took it to the locksmith and for $20, he rekeyed the last two locks and capped the one.
 
If you’re willing to go the extra mile and expense, you could ...
  • buy an extra right side glove box door/lid, if you don’t want to cut it yourself or want to keep the orig unmodded (~ $14 on fleabay)
  • buy a lock and your functional spare key, ( ~ $10)
  • call my smithy, tellem you know what he did for me. (I guess PM me for info, no advertising rules here, yes?)
  • send him your parts, and he can send you the modded parts back, including the white lock latch bar and lock spring clip as in my pic
  • He did two locks for me and the mod for $70
For me, the peace of mind when I put my expensive glasses or sun glasses, garage door opener in the right side box; the cost and effort this mod incurred was well worth it. I’m sure mileage will vary.

The left side box on my bike is vehicle and driver docs plus my Farkle charging chords. Which pretty much is filled up. I’d rather not store these things in the saddle bags. These locks aren’t super secure obviously, but only the most determined would bust into them.

I ride mostly in a city environment, and things easily swiped can and do happen, even off cop bikes. In our team, helmets, sunglasses and phones have been nabbed by walkers by. Hopefully this will deter such hit and run sticky fingers. It’s also why I usually carry my helmet into restaurants or use a helmet lock (and remove the cam and comm devices).
 
Last edited:
AV8R said:
These locks aren’t super secure obviously, but only the most determined would bust into them.
Click to expand...
That's the thing. Most of the time these things happen just because they're there. A casual crime of opportunity when otherwise out of sight is out of mind.

AV8R said:
If you’re willing to go the extra mile and expense...
Click to expand...
That just might be a plan! I'd only have one lock to mod. I'll have a think on it.
 
Last edited:
Finished servicing bike and started to replace the Tupperware when I somehow tweaked my back. Dr says it sciatica, can hardly walk with out pain. Its been 9 days now. How long does it take for this system to calm down. Getting anxious to get back out there. This is the best time of year to ride in the Ozarks.
Frustrating..
 
One word:

VFR CLUTCH LEVER.

Wait.... That’s three words. :rimshot1:

Anyhoo, solved ALL my hatred for the stock clutch. Behold!

237645

Also caused me to realize why my clutch felt like it had a hitch, the PO had the lever perch rolled so far forward or “down” that the back of the lever was rubbing the switchgear. So I fixed that too :headbang:
 
My front tire wore hard on the left side until I had my wheel bearings replaced

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
AV8R said:
Edumacate me...

How do worn bearings result in a wear pattern such as this?
Click to expand...
Thought it made the wheel slightly lean? All I'm sure about is that both of my tires wore harder on the left side, had my bearings replaced on the front and rear and now they both wear evenly.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
The only thing that changed was my wheel bearings, so I thought that was the reason for the even wear now. I always make sure both are at 42 psi before I ride.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
Rwst1300 said:
Finished servicing bike and started to replace the Tupperware when I somehow tweaked my back. Dr says it sciatica, can hardly walk with out pain. Its been 9 days now. How long does it take for this system to calm down. Getting anxious to get back out there. This is the best time of year to ride in the Ozarks.
Frustrating..
Click to expand...
I'm not a Dr., but I can relate my experience. In my case the impingement point was through my SI joint, not the spine. I did stretches and it helped a lot. I did an aggresive seated pigeon pose. Ths link expresses it better than I could. When I first started I could feel the joint open up and an immediate decrease in symptopms. After doing them many times the effect was less dramatic. Eventually my 100 crunches 5 days a week caused it to almost go away. I surmise stronger abdominal muscles stabalized everything. My riding back pain went away too.

I would go see a good physical therapist rather than suffer.

https://www.spine-health.com/condit...on/sacroiliac-si-joint-exercises-sciatic-pain
 
It is said that bike tires wear on the left more in right-side-of-the-road driving countries because left turns are longer than right turns.

Seems a bit far-fetched to me because most interstate ramps are right turns, which should even out the average.
 
Larry Fine said:
It is said that bike tires wear on the left more in right-side-of-the-road driving countries because left turns are longer than right turns.

Seems a bit far-fetched to me because most interstate ramps are right turns, which should even out the average.
Click to expand...

But you don’t even lean when exiting the interstate.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom