What did you do with your ST1100/ST1300 today?

Changed the fuel pump on ST1300.
Original pump gave up at 130 000 km / 80 000mi
Used HITACHI/HÜCO EAN: 4044079333030
The kit contained one suitable suction side filter also. Had to reuse the bottom rubber mount from the old pump.
Reused the packing gasket without any problems.

Price was 25 EUR / 30 USD with express delivery :D
OEM part numbers:
ALFA ROMEO 46480607
FIAT 464806070
FIAT 46480607
FIAT 606519690
FORD F23Z9H307A*
FORD F2AZ9A407A*
FORD F2VY9A407A*
FORD F32Z9A407A*
FORD F42Z9350A*
FORD F42Z9350AA*
FORD F43Z9A407A*
FORD F4DZ9H307A*
FORD F4DZ9H307B*
FORD F4PZ9H307A*
FORD F52Z9350AA*
FORD F57Z9H307D*
FORD F57Z9H307J*
FORD F58Z9A407C*
FORD F5AZ9350A*
FORD F5RZ9350A*
FORD F65Z9A407AA*
FORD F65Z9A407BA*
FORD F68Z9A407B*
FORD F75Z9A407AA*
FORD F75Z9A407BA*
FORD F75Z9A407DA*
FORD F75Z9A407EA*
FORD F75Z9A407FA*
FORD F75Z9A407GA*
FORD F75Z9A407HA*
FORD F75Z9H307BC*
FORD F75Z9H307CC*
FORD F75Z9H307KC*
FORD F75Z9H307LC*
FORD F75Z9H307MC*
FORD F7UZ9A407AB*
FORD F7UZ9A407BB*
FORD F7UZ9A407CB*
FORD F7UZ9A407DA*
FORD F7UZ9A407EA*
FORD F7UZ9A407FA*
FORD F7UZ9H307BC*
FORD F7UZ9H307CC*
FORD F7UZ9H307DB*
FORD F7UZ9H407AC*
FORD F7UZ9H407EB*
FORD F7UZ9H407FB*
FORD F85Z9H307AA*
FORD F85Z9H307BA*
FORD F85Z9H307CA*
FORD F87Z9H307AA*
FORD F87Z9H307BA*
FORD F87Z9H307CA*
FORD F8XZ9H307EA*
FORD F8XZ9H307EB*
FORD E6DZ9H307J*
FORD E8DZ9H307C*
FORD E8DZ9H307D*
FORD E9DZ9H307C
FORD E9DZ9H307D
FORD F2VY9A407AA
FORD F32Z9A407CC
FORD F4DZ9H307AA
FORD F4DZ9H307BB
FORD F52Z9350AB
FORD F5AZ9350AA
FORD F68Z9A407BA
FORD F7UZ9H307BD
FORD F7UZ9H307DC
FORD F85Z9H307AB
FORD F85Z9H307BB
FORD F87Z9H307CB
FORD F75Z9H307KD
FORD F75Z9H307KE
HONDA 17040S0XA00*
HONDA 17040S30A30*
HONDA 17040S30A31*
HONDA 17040S30L00*
HONDA 17040SR2A30*
HONDA 17040SR2A31*
HONDA 17040SR2A33*
HONDA 17040SR3A30*
HONDA 17040SR3A31*
HONDA 17040ST7A32*
HONDA 17040SX0A30*
HONDA 17040SX0A32*
HONDA 8971632480*
HONDA 17040S0XA01
HONDA 17040S30J00
HONDA 17040S30J01
HONDA 17040S30L01
HONDA 17040SR2930
HONDA 17040SR2931
HONDA 17040SR2A32
HONDA 17040SR2J30
HONDA 17040SR2J31
HONDA 17040SR2Y30
HONDA 17040SR2Y31
HONDA 17040SR3930
HONDA 17040SR3931
HONDA 17040SR3Y30
HONDA 17040SR3Y31
HONDA 17040ST7A33
HONDA 17040SX0A31
ISUZU 8971632480*
ISUZU 8971632481*
LANCIA 46480607
LANCIA 464806070
LANCIA 606519690
MAZDA KL1213350G*
MAZDA KL1213350H*
MAZDA KLG413350A*
MAZDA ZZP013350*
MAZDA ZZP113350*
MAZDA KL1113350G
MAZDA KLG41335XB
MAZDA ZZP013350A
MAZDA ZZP113350A
MITSUBISHI MR391856*
MITSUBISHI MR548361*
NISSAN 170402Y900*
HYUNDAI 3111125000
HYUNDAI 3111126000*
HYUNDAI 311103A000
HYUNDAI 3111122000
HYUNDAI 3111122040
HYUNDAI 311113A000
HYUNDAI 311111R500
KIA 0K01B13350*
KIA 0K01B13350A*
FERRARI 170427
JEEP 4798941*
JEEP 5003861AA*
JEEP 5003861AB*
JEEP 5003869AA*
 

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Final drive oil change, engine oil and filter change.
First time ever, did not even spill a drop! :D

One thing I did differently, I loosened both the engine oil drain bolt and the oil filter just a bit prior to starting up the bike and letting it idle in the garage for 4-5 minutes.
Made removing everything much easier once the bike was hot.
 
Team2010 said:
Final drive oil change, engine oil and filter change.
First time ever, did not even spill a drop
Click to expand...
Bravo! Wish I could say the same. The filter was the bugger for me then I read in this forum that there is a side stand technique which I will try next time.
 
Rode to work.
After work I will ride to a Harley shop and teach a new rider course.
I thought I might install my quartet harness and wire up my GPS this weekend, but I'll be whupped (exhausted, knackered, wore plumb out) after the class. Saturday and Sunday will entail lots and lots of walking and setting up and moving cones.
Don't forget the Camelback, Mark...
 
Spent the morning trying to mount the tip over bars I purchased last year. I am using to mod proposed by @Andrew Shadow but unfortunately the holes do not line up. The bar mount holes are 2mm wider than the step mount holes. I tried a variety of hose clamps to get the holes lined up without success.

Back to the drawing board.
7927EB51-3645-448F-A0AF-97B33731B76E.jpeg
 
Esti1300 said:
I tried a variety of hose clamps to get the holes lined up without success.
Click to expand...
If you are using the hose clamp method, you need to squeeze them to the correct dimension first. A vice works well if you have one. If you have a lift table for working on your bike, you can use that much more easily if you saw how I suggested doing it.
 
I'm glad I found the adapter plates before @red dirt cowboy quit selling them.
My install could not have been more straightforward and simple - even for me!
Now, I won't discount nor disparage those who have successfully molded steel bars to their will (nothing spells success like success, right?), but the idea of "forcing" things has never worked well for me. I often joke about "get a bigger hammer", but it IS a joke. Mostly.
What would I ever want to "force" on my bike? Body panel screws? Brake caliper bolts? Fork / axle bolts? An oil filter?
Nah.
It just doesn't work out well for me, in mechanical endeavors, to apply force to make things fit.
And if you DO have to force something on, what do you think will be the results if you ever decide, or need, to remove that thing?
 
Andrew Shadow said:
If you are using the hose clamp method, you need to squeeze them to the correct dimension first. A vice works well if you have one. If you have a lift table for working on your bike, you can use that much more easily if you saw how I suggested doing it.
Click to expand...
Thank You for your response @Andrew Shadow. Unfortunately, I am working with limited equipment (no vice, no table…. Ugh!). However, I know a guy…and I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express once so…;).
I just re-read your response and I am wondering if you are suggesting to put the whole bar in the vice (honestly, that had not occurred to me). That might be the amount of force necessary to slightly bend the bars 2mm closer together.
 
Sadlsor said:
And if you DO have to force something on, what do you think will be the results if you ever decide, or need, to remove that thing?
Click to expand...
In this case, absolutely nothing.
They remove very easily as the amount that the two halves are being forced towards each other is so minor that it does not induce much spring force.
 
I washed my ST1300.
Well, actually I only dried the rain off with some microfiber towels, but it looks like it was washed.
After broiling on the range all day, training new HD Riding Academy students, I was already pretty thoroughly soaked but it wasn't from any rain. When I left at the end of the day I saw some looming thunderclouds to the south -- and very close. As I would be heading north, I figured I wouldn't even need to put on any raingear, and the skies were much lighter that direction. Besides, it's only a 20-minute ride to my house on the superslab, so I could make it - right?
Wrong!
Once I turned off the northbound interstate for the westbound to get home, traffic nearly came to a stop, and the pale skies let loose. I just let it in, and got soaked in a few minutes with FRESH water instead of my own sweat, so I just relaxed and enjoyed the coolness and freshness. My mesh jacket and mesh hi-viz vest were growing noticeably heavier, but not oppressively so.
As I thought about it, I really could not remember the last time I rode through a soaking rain without any attempt at rain gear. Look what I've been missing! The tiredness and fatigue seemed to rinse away, the wetter I became.
Nice reminder.
 
Esti1300 said:
I just re-read your response and I am wondering if you are suggesting to put the whole bar in the vice (honestly, that had not occurred to me). That might be the amount of force necessary to slightly bend the bars 2mm closer together.
Click to expand...
In a perfect world you only need to squeeze the two ears of the open end of the bars in the vice as that is what you need to draw closer together. You need to put them in the vice in such a manner that you can do this while at the same time have enough room to tighten up the hose clamps while they are in the vice. The orientation of the bar in the vice will depend not only on the size of the vice being used but also the type and shape of it, so you will need to experiment to find the best position for what you are using.

I suggest that you bring them together in the vice to a dimension a little less than what you actually need. No matter how much you tighten the hose clamp, the two ears will push apart a little bit as they force any residual looseness out of the clamp. Don't forget to use something to protect the bars from being scratched.
 
Andrew Shadow said:
Don't forget to use something to protect the bars from being scratched.
Click to expand...
Yep, underlying theme of the day…

So basically vice squeeze and set with hose clamp. Will give it a try. I was using a 4” hose clamp which I believe was too large. I will get a 3” and along with your method, I feel confident this will work.
Thanks again for your feedback.

Question for you (hope I’m not breaking any thread rules), I noticed in your mod that you used M10 hex cap bolts. In the kit I received, M10 hex head screws were supplied ( see my pic). I verified the length and they would fit with your mod. Is there a reason you didn’t use these? Maybe they weren’t made available to you? Just curious.
 
Esti1300 said:
Question for you (hope I’m not breaking any thread rules), I noticed in your mod that you used M10 hex cap bolts. In the kit I received, M10 hex head screws were supplied ( see my pic). I verified the length and they would fit with your mod. Is there a reason you didn’t use these? Maybe they weren’t made available to you? Just curious.
Click to expand...
Not sure what kit you are referring to.
I did not buy a kit, I bought the bars with no hardware. I sourced out the hardware that I needed. The screws that I used were what I was able to easily find that were corrosion resistant.
 
Esti1300 said:
OK. That makes sense.
The adapter plate kit that @red dirt cowboy was selling included the M10 x 50mm hex head screws.
Click to expand...
If you have the kit with the adapter plates, why do you need to squeeze the bars? The point of the kit was to avoid doing so.
I guess you are installing the bars without using the adapter plates. Curious as to why.
 
Picked up a 2001 1-owner ABS with under 18k miles. Started moving my '99 upgrades over including the rear tail light/turn signal and license plate LED's and associated flasher from SuperBright and my Givi trunk. Swapped some of the dash LED's over before finding out the ABS models mix in a different size bulb for a lot of the dash lights. Reinstalled the backrest and bar ends on the '99 that it came with, getting it cleaned up for sale. More updates tomorrow.
 
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