Article [13] ST1300 - Tip over bars on the CHEAP

SMSW said:
I've found that when I take short cuts and try to save a buck, yes, I will save the cash... but usually pay for it in labor and time.
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As the author of the thread Is it worth it? I fully understand. Sometimes you can't put a price on experience... for some stubborn folks.
 
Thanks for the replies guys, I understand the gentleman that made the adapter plates had some serious issues and lost his equipment, so that avenue is out, I will acquire some bar stock and weld the plate across. just cant see myself deforming these that far.
 
Many of us have deformed them that far.
 
T_C said:
As the author of the thread Is it worth it? I fully understand. Sometimes you can't put a price on experience... for some stubborn folks.
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Good thread. There are some things I enjoy doing a lot - building furniture, working with wood. And, of course, some things I do that I don't really enjoy but I tell myself I'm saving money. Well, as I get older, I'm tending to get away from every time trying to save money, and I admit the pros often make something better with sophisticated machinery than I can by hand. A gunsmith friend once told me you can do anything with a file and patience that you can do with a milling machine - it just takes longer. There are still too many things I want to do, and not enough time (riding my ST is one of them).
 
OK, so I was going to weld the bracket, and decided to put them in the vice first and see what kind of pressure was required to "Squeeze" them down. It went so smoothly, that I was able to put them on with a squeeze type clamp. The base plate deformed enough that they sit square on the frame. The second one squeezed down with a twist and required a prybar to straighten. All in all, done deal. I must say, coming from a VERY mechanical background, doing the squeeze was not a natural feeling thing for me!!!
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Looks good, glad you were able to mount them. Seeing the bend in them reminds me how much more user friendly the GL bars are for pillion riders.
 
Thanks to this thread, I now have brand new crash bars. $45 and a couple hours labor. Bought a pair of GL1800 bars off ebay. I cut off the tabs and smoothed the edges with a dremel, only used/broke 5 cut off discs. One bolt hole was fine, drilled the other out with 13/32 bit. Squeezed in vice and held in place with large hose clamp. I removed top bolt first and started new bolt through the bar, then removed bottom bolt. I did not want to chance having the frame pieces move with both bolts out at the same time, overly cautious I know. Originally had 40mm bolts, but with lock washer they were too short, back to Home Depot and found a set of 10mm x 1.25 x 50mm. 45mm would work also, the 50 sticks through just a tad, no clearance problems though. I found that even with the hose clamp, the holes would not quite line up, used a large channel lock pliers to give a little more squeeze while I lined up the 2nd bolt. What a great source of info this forum is. Thanks again.
 

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kgrent said:
Thanks to this thread, I now have brand new crash bars. $45 and a couple hours labor. Bought a pair of GL1800 bars off ebay. I cut off the tabs and smoothed the edges with a dremel, only used/broke 5 cut off discs. One bolt hole was fine, drilled the other out with 13/32 bit. Squeezed in vice and held in place with large hose clamp. I removed top bolt first and started new bolt through the bar, then removed bottom bolt. I did not want to chance having the frame pieces move with both bolts out at the same time, overly cautious I know. Originally had 40mm bolts, but with lock washer they were too short, back to Home Depot and found a set of 10mm x 1.25 x 50mm. 45mm would work also, the 50 sticks through just a tad, no clearance problems though. I found that even with the hose clamp, the holes would not quite line up, used a large channel lock pliers to give a little more squeeze while I lined up the 2nd bolt. What a great source of info this forum is. Thanks again.
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Thanks for the most helpful post in this thread. One question, after you release the hose clamp/vise, wouldn't the pressure from the spreading legs damage the thread as you tighten the last few mm of the bolts?
 
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nediaC said:
Thanks for the most helpful post in this thread. One question, after you release the hose clamp/vise, wouldn't the pressure from the spreading legs damage the thread as you tighten the last few mm of the bolts?
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There is not enough pressure on the bolts to damage the threads.
 
Hi nediaC,
I suppose it is possible that the last few threads could be affected. The bolts I used did not have a shoulder. There also will be a few millimeters of thread that do not contact at all with the recessed hole that originally held allan head bolts. I used lock washers and have checked them a few times to make sure the bolts are holding tight.
Kevin
 
Try Google chrome, less buggy than IE, I have less issues with a lot stuff with than I did with explorer in general.
 
RedNHST said:
Try Google chrome, less buggy than IE, I have less issues with a lot stuff with than I did with explorer in general.
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Goldwing chrome bars work fine, no need for Google chrome. They make enough money mining personal data elsewhere.
 
I just bought a pair. Kgrent, if I have questions, I'll be shooting you a few PM. Hope you don't mind.
 
I used this 4" vise, used a thick rag to protect the chrome. I tightened the hose clamp to hold the bars compressed as I squeezed the vise together.
 

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Alright, I have the GL1800 tip over bars, but I have a different issue. The bar ends are too close together. I need to spread the bars. Of course, it's impossible for me to physically do that. I'm looking for suggestions on how to accomplish this. HELP! ....please :)
 
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