Paneuro, without knowing where SG is, I'd have to recommend the internet.
SG - country code for Singapore.
So I think are suggestions of Ace, Rural King, or Tru-Value are not going to help him much.
Article [13] ST1300 - Tip over bars on the CHEAP
- Thread starter DakotaJoe
- Start date
SG - country code for Singapore.
So I think are suggestions of Ace, Rural King, or Tru-Value are not going to help him much.
fnmag & T_C...yeah code is from Singapore. In any case its easier to find the hardwares such as these here but specifically this finethread size and specs seems to be off from many store. I was thinking of more to any one had better luck here with getting the same exact copy with longer thread size..
The bolts are out there... but yes hard to find.
I'd say hoit the internet and call up the local hardware stores. Currently I am running non-stainless opn mine. Something I need to fix... it's on the list.
I'd say hoit the internet and call up the local hardware stores. Currently I am running non-stainless opn mine. Something I need to fix... it's on the list.
SteveST1300
Vendor
SteveST1300
Vendor
Good info thanks
+1 on what Jim says.
OK question on the bolts to attach the crash bar. what are the holding on the inside of the frame, i can't feel behind the frame, i bought the goldwing one's
so before i take the bolts out,
i'm need to know whats behind them, what's their purpose
so before i take the bolts out,
i'm need to know whats behind them, what's their purpose
Sandwiches two frame pieces together. The inside steel frame is threaded.
One place to pick up cheap GL1800 tip over bars is to go to a trike shop that does the conversions. I paid $10 for a pair at the Leola Trike Shop in Pa. They had a 5 gallon bucket that was about to be sold for scrap metal. Good Luck
Ok, since this thread has been revived I have some questions. What year GL1800 bars are the easiest to install no plates required? Some posts reference the Bend Squeeze and Bolt method. One poster said his were just bolt-on with no bending etc required but no year was given.
Nashcat
Site Supporter
I'm pretty sure that all of the GL1800 bars are the same. And yes, they require a serious squeeze to fit. The mounting holes have to be enlarged first. While squeezing in a vise, put a large hose clamp around the legs, since they will spring back when you open the vise. Remove the hose clamp after bolting the bars to the bike.
John
Thanks for the info John.
Are these the ones that need no mods? http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-GOLDW...ALE-/291504007641?hash=item43defe29d9&vxp=mtr Thanks Dan
Nashcat
Site Supporter
Yes, and no. You need to cut off the small tabs that have the "Z" bend in them. You don't need the tab, and it looks better with them removed. A hack saw to cut them, and a file to smooth them out. Then the 2 mounting holes need to be drilled to a larger size. I think I ended up with 1/2" holes. Then you have to squeeze the bars together in a somewhat large vise, which puts the holes closer together to match the holes in the bike frame. While the bars are squeezed together, put a large hose clamp around both legs to hold them together when you release the vise. Leave the hose clamp on until you have the mounting screws started in the threaded holes. Then remove the clamp and tighten the screws. You'll need longer screws to mount the bars, along with some flat washers under the screw heads. I can post a picture of them mounted on the bike, tomorrow.
By the way.....that's too much to pay for the ones that you linked to on Ebay. I think I paid $25 for mine.
Ride Safe
John and Janis
I purchased a set of these and "Serious squeeze" is kinda an understatement. Are we talking like an inch or so? mine are NO WHERE NEAR lining up. just want to make sure i'm not gonna screw up something. Maybe the weld a plate method is another answer!!!
There is a good reason why BygDawg tip over bars are popular (or MCL's for that matter). They fit right the first time, they work, and are not exorbitantly expensive. I don't know about squeezing your bars an inch closer together, but be very careful that you don't collapse the tubing if the full inch is needed. I would think that squeezing them that much will cant the mounting plates and they will only make narrow contact to your bike's frame at the very top and bottom.
When you mount them to the ST, remove only one bolt at at time - i.e. remove the top bolt, insert the new bolt through the guard, and screw it in finger tight with the guard tipped so that you can get to the second bolt. if you remove both bolts at the same time, the frame parts will slide apart and it will take two people to replace it. One holds the bike up and the second guy inserts the bolts. (Make sure your friend is plenty strong.) I found the right stainless metric bolt at Lowe's in their special fasteners drawer.
That kills the whole purpose of this thread. Cheaper tip-over bars then bought made for the job.
Not an inch to squeeze, the chromoly steel is good at absorbing the flex needed.
I've taken both bolts out several times putting guards on/off on three different ST's. Never had a problem with the frame getting widely out of whack. Insert one bolt and just give a gentle tug to get the other hole to line up. Sometimes, didn't even need the tug.
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I don't agree (kills purpose....keep reading) , but the problem Eph... is having is he has to squeeze the tip over bars he bought about an inch to make them fit. Saying not an inch doesn't make it so if His bars require that inch of movement. If he only has to squeeze 1/4", and his measurement was wrong in the posted comment, then that changes everything.
As far as killing the purpose of the thread, I don't agree. More than a few guys have successfully used GW bars and modified them and the thread addresses them. Eph.... is encountering a significant problem and the thread does not address how to make such a signifcant bend in the existing brackets.
I've found that when I take short cuts and try to save a buck, yes, I will save the cash... but usually pay for it in labor and time. It's a valid trade if you don't have the $$$ but do have the time and skill. The BD and MCL bars are popular because some guys can afford them, they are reasonably priced, and they would rather go out and ride instead of bending, cutting and modifying GW bars.
Re the frame bolts. The BygDawg instructions warned against removing both bolts at once, and other posters elsewhere on this site have cautioned against the same thing. I was repeating what I read, and if one can remove two or even all 4 at once w/o any frame slippage, GREAT. Your experience for three bikes might be valid for all, but then why the warning by others? Are we just repeating incorrect instructions? I dont know. I followed BD's directions for mine. It worked perfectly. YMMV.
Nashcat
Site Supporter
When I put mine on, I probably had an advantage over some riders. I have a bench mounted vise that's opens large enough to squeeze the bars, as well as a drill press for drilling the 1/2" holes. I also had 35 years experience working on industrial equipment, so bending and drilling seems second nature to me. But without a large vise, it ain't gonna happen. 
It would have been much easier to buy a set from Jay, but I'm cheap and somewhat stubborn when it comes to doing things myself. At least, that's what Janis tells me.
Ride Safe
John and Janis
It would have been much easier to buy a set from Jay, but I'm cheap and somewhat stubborn when it comes to doing things myself. At least, that's what Janis tells me. Ride Safe
John and Janis