Article [13] ST1300 - Pre-load Fluid Replacement

I can't hear mine. I think that it may have to do with grease in the area of the detent ball. You would have to remove the knob and clean underneath but if you screw is stuck you may be out of luck. Make sure to use a Japanese screwdriver on the screw if you do try to remove it.
 
Did this yesterday after watching videos and reading the Igofar 21 step by step process. Previously had 14 clicks and no firmness. Convinced my self to not over think the process and was done in 20 minutes. I did lay a paper towel under the hose fittings and left over night to check for leaks. So far so good. Firms up after 4 clicks.
 
YoFrient said:
Did this yesterday after watching videos and reading the Igofar 21 step by step process. Previously had 14 clicks and no firmness. Convinced my self to not over think the process and was done in 20 minutes. I did lay a paper towel under the hose fittings and left over night to check for leaks. So far so good. Firms up after 4 clicks.
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You still have a little bit of air in there ;)
 
Sincere thanks to all that have shared their processes and feedback. Previously mine got to 75% turned in before any adjustment was made. Followed all your recommendations here and completed the job in about 20 minutes. Preload now comes on within 1/2 a turn. For what it’s worth, I understand the OEM oil is SS8 which I believe the equivalent of 10W Fork Oil, which is what I used.
 
Hey guys, instructions are great and I'm stuck at one part. What is the risk if I'm not able to raise the banjo bolt above the frame? I assume it'll be some fluid gushing out but how much are we talking? Would a shop towel handle it?
 
There was not much fluid left in mine at all. Easily handled by a shop towel.
 
Ok, I know this is a very old thread, But some of us are newbys here. As I've stated earlier, I have a new to me 2006 with ZERO maintenance history. With 34k on the clock. I'm going to rebuild the pre-load adjuster as it has "issues" according to all that I've read here. My question is, and if I missed seeing the answer, I apologize.
After the rebuild. At the point of re atteching the supply hose with the banjo bolt & crush washers. Isn't there some air that is traped in the banjo bolt? And a bit in the hose? Even if it's held vertical during the rebuild process? Is it necessary, or possible to purge the air from the adjuster and supply hose after rebuild? Or is it even necessary to worry about?
Thanks Bill
 
billbo said:
Ok, I know this is a very old thread, But some of us are newbys here. As I've stated earlier, I have a new to me 2006 with ZERO maintenance history. With 34k on the clock. I'm going to rebuild the pre-load adjuster as it has "issues" according to all that I've read here. My question is, and if I missed seeing the answer, I apologize.
After the rebuild. At the point of re atteching the supply hose with the banjo bolt & crush washers. Isn't there some air that is traped in the banjo bolt? And a bit in the hose? Even if it's held vertical during the rebuild process? Is it necessary, or possible to purge the air from the adjuster and supply hose after rebuild? Or is it even necessary to worry about?
Thanks Bill
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With the very basic design of this preloader about the best you can do is follow the directions and get it applying preload from .5 to 1.5 turns of the adjuster wheel. I suppose that after following the procedure of filling and reassembling the hose to the adjuster one could lower the adjuster as low as possible so the banjo at the top of the shock is above all of the hose you could crack the banjo loose at the shock end then apply slight preload to push out some oil out at the shock end and purge the banjo bolt and hose of any air in the hose. Refill the preloader piston pump again and see what that last bottom-to-top purge did.

My thoughts...... At the end of the day this shock is undersprung for many if not most North American riders. If there is 32 to 34 of the 36 clicks available after servicing there will be more than enough preload travel to set the proper rider sag of 36 to 41 mm but when the rider gets off the bike the shock rebounds to less than 5 mm free sag indicating the spring is inadequate for the rider. You can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Grinding out every molecule of air in the mechanism doesn't change that basic fact.
 
dduelin said:
With the very basic design of this preloader about the best you can do is follow the directions and get it applying preload from .5 to 1.5 turns of the adjuster wheel. I suppose that after following the procedure of filling and reassembling the hose to the adjuster one could lower the adjuster as low as possible so the banjo at the top of the shock is above all of the hose you could crack the banjo loose at the shock end then apply slight preload to push out some oil out at the shock end and purge the banjo bolt and hose of any air in the hose. Refill the preloader piston pump again and see what that last bottom-to-top purge did.

My thoughts...... At the end of the day this shock is undersprung for many if not most North American riders. If there is 32 to 34 of the 36 clicks available after servicing there will be more than enough preload travel to set the proper rider sag of 36 to 41 mm but when the rider gets off the bike the shock rebounds to less than 5 mm free sag indicating the spring is inadequate for the rider. You can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Grinding out every molecule of air in the mechanism doesn't change that basic fact.
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This is pretty much what I thought to be the case. As I couldn't find any conversation on it. Trying to purge the air out of it being a total moot issue. I do agree with you that the rear shockset up being a "low bid" outsource item for Honda.
That being said. I think I am going to use bacon grease in the pre loader when I rebuild it! With Phoenix 110 degree/ 44 celsius Summer heat. Coupled with all the heat boiling out of this 4 banger V/4. I might as well smell bacon frying while the oil is being cooked in the pre loader when I am stopped in grid lock traffic. Problem solved.
Thanks for the reply!
Bill
 
How tight is the banjo bolt supposed to be? I thought I would finally get round to refilling my preload adjuster and everything was going fine until I tried to loosen the banjo. I kept increasing the pressure until the support rod I was holding in my left hand actually started to bend, and decided to wave the white flag and put everything back as I found it. I guess I'll have to live with 9 clicks that do nothing for now.
 
The preload adjuster and the banjo fitting are both aluminum. My experience is that when aluminum is bolted up against aluminum. They have a tendency to "sieze" themselves together. I'd get something to firmly hold the adjuster. Iused a pair of vise grips to gently hold the preload body securely. Put a 10 mm tubing wrench on the banjo bolt. Use a rubber hammer or small dead blow hammer to tap the wrench. That should snap it loose, Mine was on fairly tight.
 
billbo said:
The preload adjuster and the banjo fitting are both aluminum. My experience is that when aluminum is bolted up against aluminum. They have a tendency to "sieze" themselves together. I'd get something to firmly hold the adjuster. Iused a pair of vise grips to gently hold the preload body securely. Put a 10 mm tubing wrench on the banjo bolt. Use a rubber hammer or small dead blow hammer to tap the wrench. That should snap it loose, Mine was on fairly tight.
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There is a copper washer between the fitting and body. Use a wrench on the flats of the body and a wrench on the bolt. It is tight but not that bad. The support arm is not as you found out strong enough to loosen the nolt
 
Just ordered a mains powered impact gun and 10mm impact socket, I'm not giving in yet ;) I was looking for an excuse to buy one anyway so all good.

If I end up mangling the old one, is it just a standard size banjo bolt? (Does anyone know the actual size I need to order?) Or something Honda-specific (aka $$$$$:eek:)

Thanks in advance for your help and advice, much appreciated
 
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Igofar - Have tried exactly this method - it will not move. I've also tried a socket on a breaker bar as hard as I dare without rounding the bolt head - no dice. Goodness knows what the previous owner did to it! I'm thinking I will have to get caveman with it, hence my question about replacement banjo bolt size.
 
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Before you go and damaging stuff, mix up some acetone/ATF fluids in equal parts and put a few drops on the fitting, then heat it up slowly with a heat gun or hair dryer and watch the oil get sucked in…then apply gentle but firm force and HOLD it there.
Yanking, pipes, and impacts will flex and stretch and damage the bolt, you want to be patient and let TIME work for you.
After a few seconds of firm pressure it should release.
 
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