Rear wheel and tire removal time

This is the one thing that bugs me about forums....this thread is not about bragging rights, or the typical "it didn't happen to me", or "mine have always been fine" you don't need to check them, or replace them etc.
You guys don't know that, you have not seen his bike, I have not seen his bike. His bike was purchased as a used PD motor, with an unknown service history, so I merely pointed out things that anyone should consider checking on a bike that is new to them.
Too many times I've had folks contact me with destroyed flange bearings, metal plates that used to have brake pads attached to them, or damaged parts, and when asked if they serviced them, I was told, "well, no, some guy on the forum said his were still good and said they should last for a million miles, or that I didn't need to check or replace them, because he always said his were fine when he checked his, so I thought it was OK not to check them" etc.
I simply put out a few things that should be checked or considered when doing a service in this area.
Just because it has not happened to you, or you've not seen it happen, does not mean we should imply/suggest that it does not need to be inspected/replaced without seeing it.
:d1:
 
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Igofar said:
This is the one thing that bugs me about forums....this thread is not about bragging rights, or the typical "it didn't happen to me", or "mine have always been fine" you don't need to check them, or replace them etc.
You guys don't know that, you have not seen his bike, I have not seen his bike. His bike was purchased as a used PD motor, with an unknown service history, so I merely pointed out things that anyone should consider checking on a bike that is new to them.
Too many times I've had folks contact me with destroyed flange bearings, metal plates that used to have brake pads attached to them, or damaged parts, and when asked if they serviced them, I was told, "well, no, some guy on the forum said his were still good and said they should last for a million miles, or that I didn't need to check or replace them, because he always said his were fine when he checked his, so I thought it was OK not to check them" etc.
I simply put out a few things that should be checked or considered when doing a service in this area.
Just because it has not happened to you, or you've not seen it happen, does not mean you should imply/suggest that it does not need to be inspected/replaced without seeing it.
:d1:
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Take a chill pill Larry. The great part about forums is you do get a bunch of advice and you are correct that nether you or anyone else here can give him 100% accurate advice without looking at his bike.. but that goes both ways, you can't just say everything has to be replaced either.. your guess is a good as the rest of the forum's guessing... seeing it in person is a different thing.

He got good advice from this thread and that's a good thing.. the important part of this is you need to take a personal interest in your motorcycle as it relates to maintenance and that means you check your own pads and you try to do any hands-on stuff you feel comfortable with. Forums are a great place to get the technical advice that manuals tend to leave out but you do have to look at your situation specifically and go from there.
 
I'm not taking sides here, but if you do your own maintenance work, it stands to reason that you inspect everything when you pull something apart for wear and/or damage. Replacing pieces is up to the guy doing the work, and depends on knowledge and available $$$. I like Larry's advice because he points out ALL the things to check that I might miss or ignore, and I value Dave's input because he is not as compulsive as Larry, but a knowledgeable if not professional wrench.

I tend toward replacing all wear parts because I don't like unexpected avoidable failures when I do a maint. project, but recently, as the total $$ I've put in to my bike heads toward the stratosphere, I'm inspecting things more and looking for evident wear before I replace pieces (thank you Dave!). AV8R sounds to me like he has done due diligence in finding a trustworthy mechanic, and has said he is not doing his own work. Hopefully he will take both Larry's and Dave's advice and everyone else's two cents and work with this guy to get what he needs done for a price he can afford.
 
Well said, I could not agree more! I also edited my wording to say WE should not imply/suggest etc.
Chill pill taken :rolleyes:
 
AV8R said:
does most anyone else do all this?
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I just pulled my rear wheel off on Tuesday and yes I did all of this. Here is my take on it. It sounds like a lot of extra work but it really isn't. Leaving aside the discussion about whether or not all of this is part of a wheel remove & install procedure or not, many of these things you are doing as part of the process anyway- just a question of doing them properly and in the correct order. The remaining items that are in addition to simply removing and reinstalling the wheel assembly are not adding hours to the job. They are adding an extra 30 minutes or so to the job- and most of that extra time is going to cleaning and re-applying the moly paste which is part of the process per the shop manual and is in your best interest anyway. Given that I don't see any good reason for not doing them as part of the wheel remove/install process.
 
Ill give you a reason for not doing every possible action...

Mr lets DIY and save $100-150 off the Honda Service bill and remove the wheel himself, you know the weight lifter encouraged to become a wrench monkey? That would be me. I snapped/sheared that muffler clamp bolt like it was a wet noodle. Oh yeah I did, and now i got to somehow remove whats left and get another bolt when i go back to have the tire I bought there put on the wheel i removed. Then theres thst little brake pad clip that fell out when pulling the wheel out of its brake shoe jaws. Like where the heck does it go?

Tire was down to the wear bars.

42D1AC21-B5DB-4DFC-9F09-15F83FE0C49C.jpg B500CF91-DDE7-42FD-B182-2FA3C29FAFC5.jpg 1552792C-FCFC-4E84-AA8E-FAB835015170.jpg

Maybe i should stick to electronics.
 
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AV8R said:
Ill give you a reason for not doing every possible action...

Mr lets DIY and save $100-150 off the Honda Service bill and remove the wheel himself, you know the weight lifter encouraged to become a wrench monkey? That would be me. I snapped/sheared that muffler clamp bolt like it was a wet noodle. Oh yeah I did, and now i got to somehow remove whats left and get another bolt when i go back to have the tire I bought there put on the wheel i removed. Tire was down to the wear bars.

Maybe i should stick to electronics.
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Nope, our (collective) point is that if you diy, then you would anti seize all those bolts and they would not snap off next time. And if the mechanic snapped them off, he charges you for new parts too. Which is why most of us stock some of these wear items that tend to seize/break/wear out. Only difference is that you get to decide if you want an OEM part, a better one (example: breeze clamps), or a cheap, quick fix instead of trusting the mechanic to do whichever is fastest. And too many of us have not been happy with the mechanic choosing. BTW, tradesmen's speak for "they don't make that" means "I don't have it in my truck and I'm too lazy to go get it for you". Same thing.
 
Does WD-40 sprayed on both sides of the bolt and allowed to soak 5 mins and tap with hammer to loosen it, count as anti- seize?

Thats what I tried and she still snapped like a twig. Think it was the Huntington Beach sea water that got to its un-anodized bar metal.

Anyways, one should hold till I get this sorted.

So what about that brake shoe clip, any diagrams to assist its being put back?
Need a picture
 
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If you really don't know where or how that cool is positioned, you should really have someone else assisting you with your rear tire\brakes etc. There are too many small items that it overlooked, missed, or done wrong could cause damage to your bike and harm to you!
As stated in a reply, those folks who take the proper steps don't break stuff.
A couple drops of PB Blaster from a needle oiler, and two minutes of your time would have saved the bolt from being snapped off.
Don't damage the band clamp as they are really soft and easily damaged and are about $20 bucks each.
You sure you don't want to chat on the phone a bit before something else may get damaged?
 
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WD-40, while a useful lubricant/solvent for various things is NOT comparable to NeverSieze. NS is a preventive step. PB Blaster and penatrating oils are for use on a work in progress.
 
Thanks for that concern, I usually figure things out.

Its ts not like microelectronics or plasma engineering which is par for the course for me. It's mechanical bits. ;)

So Larry doesn't have to drive 500 miles to save my bike from malpractice, I'll have the Honda dudes check my work. They've taken a shine to me.

There we go

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Of course they've taken a shine to you, they finally found someone who trusts them :rofl1:
 
I respectfully disagree with Larry. Penetrating oil does not free EVERY frozen item - though I did read of one guy who had a piston rusted solid in an antique engine. He poured pen. oil into the cylinder and let it soak for months, giving the piston a tap w. a block of wood and hammer every few weeks. The piston was eventually pressed out. Unless you want to dunk your bike in PB blaster for a week, it makes more sense (to me) to break the bolt off, and either drill and tap the old strap or replace it with a new one. How much time do you want to spend soaking one bolt? (Answer depends on where the bolt is.)

I agree with Jettawreck - get some real antiseize, tho I prefer the high temp stuff because that works for me on things like muffler bolts. Loosen and retreat muffler bolts when you change your oil (or annually). I use a small impact batt op drill/driver to pull these out and it takes more time to get in position than it does to unscrew, lube, and replace them.
 
PB Blaster...
OK, lesson learned and added to my bag-o-tricks. Thought applying heat was the “proper” way to loosen stuck metal, the application of expansion and contraction method.

tbh, I was rushing the job because I was doing this in the sun and I was hot and I wanted to get the wheel back to Honda for the tire swap off my wheel. “Haste makes waste” my Pa would say.

Maybe I’ll get PB to remove the headless bolt out of the muffler clamp, or I swap the clamp for a better than solution.

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[video=youtube_share;GKuXl23rNG4]https://youtu.be/GKuXl23rNG4[/video]

Breeze Clamps are what I call screw or bolt clamps I’ve used on hoses, but there appears to be exhaust versions

Here’s a piece of kit sized for the ST1300: Mikalor Stainless Exhaust Clamp with Zinc Bolt, Clamp Size: 43-47mm.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-ST1300-Pan-European-4-SC51C-2004-2005-Stainless-Exhaust-Clamp-EXC434/361443292321
(wonder if these can be had locally)
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Thanks for putting the video up for folks.
An even better fluid, is equal parts of ATF and Acetone.
As far as getting your broken bolt out, if you look above the clamp, there should be 3 or 4 threads showing of the bolt sticking out the top, apply your oil(s) to those threads and let them work down into the clamp.
After a few minutes, you may be able to take a small micro pair of waterpump pliers and get just enough purchase to turn in, then it should spin out freely. I've used this method a lot on bikes where folks have used drills or impacts to put stuff together.
 
I swapped my rusted stock clamps with Stainless Steel T-Bolt Clamps.

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?153588-Exhaust-Clamps-revisited&highlight=muffler+clamps
 
I totally agree with you about the penetrating oil on every frozen item... and I do use hi temp copper antiseize on any bolt near heat, I just meant I use the PBB before I start removing rusted stuff.
 
drtyrrel said:
I swapped my rusted stock clamps with Stainless Steel T-Bolt Clamps.

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?153588-Exhaust-Clamps-revisited&highlight=muffler+clamps
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Thanks for the link, I was gunna buy off the UK eBay link otherwise, this would be faster and cheaper.

That all being said, the UK version are 43-47mm and yours is 48-56mm, not even an overlap. What gives, are Pan Eu bike’s exhaust tubes smaller diameter, or is there enough travel for either size?

Inquiring minds, need to know
 
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I'm not sure what size mine are. I had them at home already from a previous project. Mine are a little bit too small and I had to slightly bend the T-bolt to get them to fit. The next size bigger would have worked better. I only have about 3 threads sticking out when tightened.
 
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