Rear wheel and tire removal time
- Thread starter AV8R
- Start date
I'm with you AV8R, my loctite paste just arrived tonight as well.
Woodchuck
(Lyle)
I'm going to order some today and I'll see what up with all this CH stuff. Anyone coming to ONstoc that would like a tube?
Woodchuck
(Lyle)
$17.50 can. moly 77 will be in on Wed.
flip-flop
I do not consent to a search...
Well, after running over an allen wrench and flatting my rear I've got my wheel off and going to the shop. Bad timing (aren't they all?) but I'm glad its off-- looks like the PO used standard grease not moly 60. Luckily I've got some left from when I had my 1st ST. The splines were pretty nasty but not damaged-- I think this rear only had about 4500 miles on it as there is quite a bit of tread left except in the center 3 inches....
Wes
Site Supporter
I'm a new ST owner and doing my first tire change this week by removing the wheels and taking them to Cycle Gear for the mounting portion. I purchased some Never-Seeze after reading several comments about in this forum. I was curious if you use it only on the bolts in the high temp areas, such as the exhaust bracket, or pretty much every bolt as you replace it, other than the caliper bolts with some blue thread lock? Thanks
Wes
Site Supporter
Do you have a service manual?
Did you follow the service manuals instructions?
This video missed ALOT of important steps.
Just a few questions:
Did you clean off the splines and replace the Moly 60 paste on both pieces?
Did you replace the large O-ring on the splines?
Did you replace the small O-ring that is hidden underneath the spline plate?
Did you check the driven/flange bearings?
Did you lift the plate and check the conditions of the rubber dampers?
Did you use antiseize on the axle, or a least a good quality water proof grease?
Did you make sure the axle collar was seated correctly inside the pumpkin?
Did you TORQUE the 14mm head stopper bolt BEFORE tightening down the axle nut? (VERY IMPORTANT)
Did you check/clean/lubricate your rear caliper guide pins and inspect your rear caliper completely?
Did you remember to tighten the lower muffler bolts once you were finished (often missed)
Did you inspect/replace the rubber muffler hanger grommets (normally damaged from dealerships service)
Did you test the secondary master cylinder for correct function after removing/replacing the rear wheel?
I could go on, but I think you get the idea
I appreciate your thorough attention to detail. Thank you. You mention torquing the "head stopper" bolt, which I figure is the caliper bracket stopper bolt as the Haynes service manual calls it, before torquing the axle nut. The service manual says the opposite in Chapter 6, Section 19, step 16 and 17. Because you say it is VERY IMPORTANT, I wanted to see what clarification I could get from you. Thank you!
Are you referring to the Haynes service manual? The OEM Honda service manual 2003-2008 shows the correct procedure on page 16-12...
Apply molybdenum disulfide paste....install rear brake caliper onto the brake disk....install rear axle and washer.....install and tighten new rear caliper stopper pin/bolt to specified torque....THEN install the washer and tighten the rear axle nut to the specified torque....
If you have any further questions, I'd be glad to call you on the white courtesy phone and explain "why" in detail.
Igofar
Do you have a service manual?
Did you follow the service manuals instructions?
This video missed ALOT of important steps.
Just a few questions:
Did you clean off the splines and replace the Moly 60 paste on both pieces?
Did you replace the large O-ring on the splines?
Did you replace the small O-ring that is hidden underneath the spline plate?
Did you check the driven/flange bearings?
Did you lift the plate and check the conditions of the rubber dampers?
Did you use antiseize on the axle, or a least a good quality water proof grease?
Did you make sure the axle collar was seated correctly inside the pumpkin?
Did you TORQUE the 14mm head stopper bolt BEFORE tightening down the axle nut? (VERY IMPORTANT)
Did you check/clean/lubricate your rear caliper guide pins and inspect your rear caliper completely?
Did you remember to tighten the lower muffler bolts once you were finished (often missed)
Did you inspect/replace the rubber muffler hanger grommets (normally damaged from dealerships service)
Did you test the secondary master cylinder for correct function after removing/replacing the rear wheel?
I could go on, but I think you get the idea
GoodDay All∞
A vid of the rear wheel removal/install that points out the o-rings, bearings, rubber dampers and what to look for in their regard, Also where to apply that moly...
And my current project... Cleaning the rear the calliper.
I know it's a big ask.
I have just cleaned my front callipers. They seem a breeze compared to the rear. I stopped in here to look for the size hex wrench needed ( it's 8mm ) on the axle. And got into this.
VERY glad I did . Rear tire changed at my local, ten thousand ago. He did none of the above.
Guess I'm lucky to be ok thus far. My 2003 1300 has just rolled 80K kms. And the $ pot is way small.
A vid is worth a few tens of thousands words. Whew!
Even some pics w/explanations will help.
I'm after doing this soon. B4 the deep freeze
BeWell F∞
Ooops on the other reply.
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Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
Here is something to get you started- ST1300 - Rear Brake Piston Cleaning.
Do you have a service manual?
Did you follow the service manuals instructions?
This video missed ALOT of important steps.
Just a few questions:
Did you clean off the splines and replace the Moly 60 paste on both pieces?
Did you replace the large O-ring on the splines?
Did you replace the small O-ring that is hidden underneath the spline plate?
Did you check the driven/flange bearings?
Did you lift the plate and check the conditions of the rubber dampers?
Did you use antiseize on the axle, or a least a good quality water proof grease?
Did you make sure the axle collar was seated correctly inside the pumpkin?
Did you TORQUE the 14mm head stopper bolt BEFORE tightening down the axle nut? (VERY IMPORTANT)
Did you check/clean/lubricate your rear caliper guide pins and inspect your rear caliper completely?
Did you remember to tighten the lower muffler bolts once you were finished (often missed)
Did you inspect/replace the rubber muffler hanger grommets (normally damaged from dealerships service)
Did you test the secondary master cylinder for correct function after removing/replacing the rear wheel?
I could go on, but I think you get the idea
GoodDay All∞
This Moly 60 is quite the thing. From reading up on it, I need some for this wheel off and calliper clean, new pads.
That said... We might take a look at Moly 60 Oil depot.ca They have a write up on the shaft drive Honda cycle issue.
So I will buy a bit for this work.
Can someone put up a diagram of the area to be pasted as well as the o-rings to be replaced? ( I'll buy 'em )
What am I looking for on the flange/driven (?) bearings and what to look for on the dampers And what to look for.
Many of you might have heard the growl that occurs when way too much torque is applied to the shaft. I've caused that a couple times. I hope it's a Honda safety mechanism that slips the extra torque. ( Hope it's not only me.) This may occur in the area we are talking about. Or this slippage occurs near the shaft end closer to the clutch. Can someone tell me?
Also ... When I loosened the muffler I see that there is a rusted spacer ( of sort ) at the connection from the header to connecter pipe, where the clamps close tight.
What is this? Putty or another Honda part I need to buy.
Too much said? All advice appreciated.
BeWell . Thanks again
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As an 1100 owner I can't claim to be an expert on the 1300, but this doesn't sound normal, and is not a safety mechanism. This sounds like it could be a case of worn splines at the final drive, or possibly something in the U-joint.
Guess I'll see after I get the Moly-60. And clean out the " spline housing ".
It's getting quite cold for doing this type of thing in an unheated garage.
Thanks Dalby. ( ANY other thoughts? )
Sure wish I could find my shop manual.
BeWell
Just installed two new drive side bearings. All sequences followed. Once the axle bolt is tightened, the wheel is not as free to rotate as I thought it should be. One fairly heavy push to rotate it sends it one revolution only. Before tightening the axle bolt there is quite a gap between the wheel spacer and the frame i.e. on the other side of the frame where the axle bolt is, and with the axle nut not tightened the wheel revolves very freely. This doesn't appear to be normal, almost like the metals are galling. Both pictures are with axle not tightened. The left picture has a screwdriver inserted to accentuate the gap. An estimate of the gap size is 3mm.
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When you removed the rear wheel, did you insert the axle distance collar into the hub correctly and completely? Sometimes you have to wiggle it a bit until you hear it click into place.
If you didn't put it in far enough, this may be your problem.
However, I would start on the simple stuff first...Is the washer under the axle nut? Is your stopper bolt in completely? Did you bend any of the guide dowels, or leave them dry where they may be binding?
Check your pads on both sides and from the rear to make sure you didn't bugger up a clip, or miss inserting the foot of the pad into the correct position.
If you didn't put it in far enough, this may be your problem.
However, I would start on the simple stuff first...Is the washer under the axle nut? Is your stopper bolt in completely? Did you bend any of the guide dowels, or leave them dry where they may be binding?
Check your pads on both sides and from the rear to make sure you didn't bugger up a clip, or miss inserting the foot of the pad into the correct position.
Wow, how right you are, again. Thanks for your quick response. I took it apart and found the inside disk pad had popped out below its front clip. From the back it looked ok, but was jamming the disk.
Thank you.