H4 LED - 2018 Evitek, F2 replaces G6

Had the cowls off this past weekend for some parts replacement and farkle installation, including the new F2s. Light cutoff and focus seem to be dead on with the prior halogens. The brightness on the F2s in incredible, with the same cutoff line, I can see probably twice as far down the road as I could with the stock bulbs (scientific guestimation).

I think it looks a little sinister now too:
Sinister ST.jpg

Big Thank You to Spiderman302 for all your knowledge and experience in this category.
 
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Moddy and I (mosly Moddy) installed the F2's on the ST1100 today at the IN garage event.

I removed the windshield, garnish, and the plate underneath it so we could see the back of the headlight. We then removed the plastic piece underneath the headlight that is held on with 2 screws. Moddy could then gain access to the bulbs from underneath.

First, he removed both bulbs. Then he split the mounting ring from the actual LED bulb. He filed the uneeded tabs so it would fit. He used the a shim and installed the mounting bracket into the headlight socket, and clipped it down He then installed the rubber boot. Once the boot was in place, he slid the bulb into the mounting bracket. He oriented it so the power cord was in the 6 O'Clock position. Repeat for the other side. Thanks also to the other Master Chief Ural rider who tied the ballasts underneath the cowel with wax coated "string" that is made for tying off wires.

We tried adjusting the bulb by turning the fan housing. It ended up being best the way it was.

Moddy, did I get it right?
 
A question: besides the F2 for the main bulbs, does Cindy carry blue marker lights or other bright whites for the auxiliaries?
 
There seems to be a problem with the F1 and M1 in some headlamps ( NOT the ST1300 ) in that there is a dark hole in the middle of the beam. if you add spacers this may fix the black hole problem but it will affect the high beam. There are some headlamps that have mis-formed parabolas which do not even work with halogen bulbs....

If you look at the F2 There is a gap between the low and high leds. A gap that is in the H4 specification..... [which was necessary for mechanical fit and clearances of the filaments] Now, The led bulbs are not fully constrained to be exactly like the halogen bulb... so we could have them slide the low beam led back and leave the hi beam led where it needs to be. The led emitters can be longer than the halogen filaments, why? because the filaments are three dimensional and the leds are only two dimensional....

I have given Evitek this feed back along with some other nit picks.

They now have a new fanless version called the E1 that replaces the S1. I noticed that the gap is missing between the two emitters! I will have to find out which emitter that they moved....

The best part is that I had thought that the DOT released H4 specification was a just QA spec and not a real manufacturing spec. I have to compliment the engineer who wrote it. It is really a decoy spec that hid some critical information. In retrospect I understand why everyone thinks it is so complicated and why the overseas fabricators did not get it right! There is even a clever engineering joke in the middle of the spec table. I bet no one knew this for 25 years!!!! It is a classic example of how an OEM can hide their IP in plain sight.
 
So here is part of the document in question. This is a spec that is suppose to have usable values. In the table there are a bunch of zero values, so the only thing that is useful is the window values but they are not useful....... Where is the joke?...

hint: There is an old expression about minding your p's and q's. Solve the algebra.....

h4Spec.jpg

The drawing is an isometric view, which makes some of the dimensions referenced to points in space.
If it were drawn as a flat view it would be much simpler. Let me explain.
It looks like the two filaments are both skewed but as it turns out the low beam is centered and "h" is really zero.
then "g" the offset of the high beam is -12 mills. It can not be zero nor could it be positive. but the "g" tolerance is +/-...

Now I am a bit ahead, What is missing is the rotation spec. It is only alluded to by the isometric view.
So I have measured the rotation to be 10 degrees. What is rotated? it is the wire frame.
grab a H4 bulb and look at the back of it with the top tab straight up the glass bulb away from you.
look at the top tab and tilt up the bulb. you should see that the shield pan is not perpendicular to the top tab.
rotate the bulb 10 degrees CW to line up the wire frame. Now the shield pan is perpendicular to the frame and the filaments are in line with the frame. That is there is no skew..... look at the filaments relative to the wire frame... now you know.

There are other drawing mistakes. Now, if I am wrong please let me know.......
 
I love this forum and how helpful every can be. I'm learning a lot about my ST just by reading the posts. The first mod I did was the switchback LED turns and then the F2 headlights. All thanks to this forum. 20180516_224045.jpg
 
Having great results with these F2's, for a couple of months now. But I am a bit afraid to use them with my modulator,,, because of how the fan function is impaired during modulation. Has anyone noticed if the F2's run hotter or cooler than the earlier generation bulbs,,,, G5 or G6 ( I think) ?? Some LED bulbs do not have fans,,, only having heat sinks of one type or another. I am about to order the Kisan modulator,,, which is designed to modulate only on high beam. That means fan performance would only be impaired when the beams are up,, and natural air circulation is generally higher due to bike movement. Provincial traffic laws require us here to lower our high beams for both oncoming and overtaking traffic, regardless of time of day. I think that, since I do follow this requirement, I get a more positive reaction from oncoming traffic, when I demonstrate a bit of respect by getting my brilliant beams out of their eyes AFTER grabbing their attention with the modulation. But I would hate to overheat and damage my F2's,,, opinions invited,, Cat'
 
Catmandu2 said:
Having great results with these F2's, for a couple of months now. But I am a bit afraid to use them with my modulator,,, because of how the fan function is impaired during modulation.
Click to expand...

Just skip that very irritating modulation Cat.

(I know. A much debated topic)
 
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DeanR said:
I know. A much debated topic)
Click to expand...

Yes,,, a long debated topic. But not the subject of my question,,, which was more about how hot the F2's seem to run, compared to other LED's which may or may not have fans. I am thinking that our motorcycle application may naturally run cooler than the more closed engine compartment of an auto. Actually,,, I have not heard of any F2 failures as yet,,, and I don't want to be the first,,, cheers, Cat
 
I think spiderman302 said the F2 draws a tad more current than the G6 but I don't recall exactly how much.
 
Cat, perhaps try strategy employed by Restored... selective modulation in heavy traffic, intersections, in town. It will keep the strain on your LED's down considerably.
 
RaYzerman said:
Cat, perhaps try strategy employed by Restored... selective modulation in heavy traffic, intersections, in town. It will keep the strain on your LED's down considerably.
Click to expand...

That is a possibility, Ray. I actually picked up a switch today that would allow me to switch off the SDC modulation during daylight hours,,, but not sure I want to go that way. The Kisan operating format,,, plus following the OHTA (Ontario Highway Traffic Act) most of the time, may just provide the best overall result. However,,, if reduced fan function has no negative effect on our application of the F2's (due to already good/adequate air cooling flow), then it would be best to stick with the SDC modulator. Hard to say. I may just have to be the guinea on this one. We are leaving on a 2 day tour of Manitoulin on Tuesday,,, so I will let you know,,, Cat'
 
Catmandu2 said:
reduced fan function has no negative effect on our application of the F2's (due to already good/adequate air cooling flow),
Click to expand...

I believe this to be true because I have had the F2's on for a 1000 miles for my SS1K with a Kisan modulator and no problem what so ever. Never had any problems with my LED's I took out and had them for over a year. I have my modulators on during all daylight hours and in the summer in 104F heat and no problem what so ever.
 
Modulating the F2 is tricky but can be done.
The fan will continue to spin at a slightly slower rate. Heat will be lower. The F2 starts at 32 watts then as it heats up it will drop to 30 watts. If you starve it for air and let it heat up it will drop to 28 watts. The electronics has a built in thermal power limit which is to protect it from a hot installation. So you will get less light but it will not fail.....

Incandescent modulators use a resistor or a regulator to dim the halogen bulb. The level that they are set to may not work correctly with the F2.
In testing the F2 it begins dimming at 10 volts and goes dark at 7.2 volts. At 9.2 volts it is running at ~ 20% power.
So a 3 pin linear voltage regulator (LM350 or LD1084) set to 9.2 volts is what you need to do the trick.

Modulator switch ON would bypass the dimmer.... this would give you 100% / 20% brightness required by California rules.

F2Modulation.jpg
 
Thanks for the insights,, Spidey,,, I am expecting Kisan's new modulator will work in that range,,, as it is optimized for "a softer transition" and LED only. Perhaps in some of the feedback you send to Evitek,,, a suggestion that they might allow for a "M" version of the F2,,, where the fan is powered by a separate ignition switched 12v feed,, so that it won't be affected by modulation ?? We are off on a 48 hour ride tomorrow,,, and the the weather forecast is perfectly cool with highs of 20c. So if anything burns out at that temp,,, I will be surprised,,, Cat'
 
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