G2 Tamer Thottle Tube

Rode some twisties here in central florida this weekend (FL-STOC) and it was really neat.

mitch

Mitch:

Obviously you were in the Central Florida Mountains. Did you have any problem with your ears popping with the extreme changes in elevation?:D

Pete
 
I'm gonna go out on a limb and bet that when the designed the G2 for the ST they used a bike with the police switch. I used to have about a 1/2-inch over hang and now the tube is perfect on the bar. :)

BTW, I just used my new G2 through an entire Ironman and it simply rocked!!! I'll type up a review probably tomorrow.
 
So Joe,

Are you saying that the shorter than stock throttle tube doesn't mess with the way the ThrottleMeister works? I would have thought that the rubber piece from the the TM that goes over the tube (under the grip) would have issues. I thought it needed the tube support when the TM clamps down against it. I'm currently using BMW (non-heated) grips with my TM, if that makes a difference...

Looks like I'll have to wait until Thanksgiving to do my install. Too many honeydo's this weekend. :rolleyes:

- Jim
I using the same set up and yes there is a issue with it. However I believe it can be adjusted to compensate for the length difference as Joe mentioned. I don't think I'll have a chance until Turkey day to fool with it.
Sonny
 
BTW, I just used my new G2 through an entire Ironman and it simply rocked!!! I'll type up a review probably tomorrow.

I have to agree... I was skeptical at first and it felt better but not a lot better then I had a chance to ride to / from work in mixed traffic. I had to re-learn how to treat the ST because I was lugging and almost stalling it a few times. I wasn't used to how smooth the throttle was an it caught me off guard at first.

Also, before this I had some slack in my throttle but after the install it seems that slack is either not there or the throttle works so seamlessly now that it's not noticeable.

A big thanks for those that brought this to the attention of the site and for JoeZ for setting up the group buy..
 
Also, before this I had some slack in my throttle but after the install it seems that slack is either not there or the throttle works so seamlessly now that it's not noticeable.

Interesting comment. I also noticed that there were fewer threads exposed on the free play adjustment after installation of the TT than there were before. Makes me think that the overall diameter of the cam, or at least the part of the cam the return cable is wrapped around is a bit larger than the OEM cam.
 
Interesting comment. I also noticed that there were fewer threads exposed on the free play adjustment after installation of the TT than there were before. Makes me think that the overall diameter of the cam, or at least the part of the cam the return cable is wrapped around is a bit larger than the OEM cam.

Here's one pic I took:

 
Well last night after work I took the bike up Azusa Canyon (Hwy 39) across the East Fork and over Glendora Mountain Road. Glendora Mountain Road is basically a low speed technical road with nothing but constant left to right to left turns many doing nearly 180's or more. Before adding the G2 I felt pretty good traveling the road but after installing the G2 it felt smoother. The ability to make finer adjustments when the throttle is near fully closed made the transitions into and out of the turns smoother. I mentioned Glendora Mountain Road first because the difference seemed more pronounced or easier to feel. The ride up Azusa Canyon and the East Fork road was also better.

The G2 really works in my book and those that do obstacle courses will benefit from installing one too. I don't see this as a replacement for a modified fuel pressure regulator (FPR) because it fixes an air/fuel mixture problem. The G2's cam configuration reduces the throttle movement when nearing or coming off a closed throttle. It helps get rid of the "light switch" feel your throttle may have in this area.

Another area I noticed a difference is when rabbiting away from stop lights when you're between lanes with a vehicle on either side. When the light would turn green I would grab some throttle and start releasing the clutch to get a jump on the other vehicles. Many times I could feel the front wheel beginning to lift when I'd do this and I always worried about a wheelie or spinning the rear tire. When I do it now the throttle is not open quite as much so the front tire is staying on the ground and I'm safely away without having to worry. Just for reference I'm at about 40 MPH by the time I get to the other side of the intersection which is about 4 lanes wide.
 
Makes me think that the overall diameter of the cam, or at least the part of the cam the return cable is wrapped around is a bit larger than the OEM cam.

That's quite probable, especially if you go on the assumption that the G2TTT is designed so there are the same number of degrees of throttle grip turn from fully closed to fully open. The overall linear distance around the outside edge of the cam would have to be the same as the OEM, so any adjustments you make to the early part of the throttle travel by using a smaller-than-OEM radius has to be made up for in the later part by going larger.

--Mark
 
I'll most likely sign up for the group buy when it starts up again but I'm wondering after looking at the comparison photos of both the new and OEM parts side by side if it would be possible to achieve the same effect by grinding down the side of the OEM throttle tube? Can we get a photo of the cam end of each throttle tube directly lined up so we can see the profile easier?
 
Re: G2 Tamer Throttle Tube

I'll most likely sign up for the group buy when it starts up again but I'm wondering after looking at the comparison photos of both the new and OEM parts side by side if it would be possible to achieve the same effect by grinding down the side of the OEM throttle tube? Can we get a photo of the cam end of each throttle tube directly lined up so we can see the profile easier?

I think that would work, but if you don't build up the rest of the cam diameter a bit to make up for the initial loss of throttle movement, you may not be able to achieve WFO before reaching the rotation stop on the grip.
 
Re: G2 Tamer Throttle Tube

I think that would work, but if you don't build up the rest of the cam diameter a bit to make up for the initial loss of throttle movement, you may not be able to achieve WFO before reaching the rotation stop on the grip.

That's what I was trying to determine by looking at Mellow's picture. I couldn't see that much difference in the diameter of both pieces when placed side by side. On the down side, I cannot remember the last time I had my bike WFO :eek:: ...probably wouldn't affect most riders anyway.

I need a good winter project. Maybe this will do...
 
If you look at the side-by-side pic you can see where it's thinner on one side then bulges at the bottom and a little on the right side. I think the OEM is just a circle.
 
The bad news is that I managed to do what I feared - I damaged my throttle-side Honda grip heater. :mad: It works when its off the tube, but quits when its on the tube (the resistance is two ohms off the bike, and open circuit on the bike). Since I can't buy a single grip heater, I'm kind of looking at these Hot Grips "BMW looking" grips with integrated heaters (like the Hondaline grips): Link. I have to do some investigation whether they'll interface with the Honda grip controller.

Matt


Might want to consider Symtec grip heaters. Work great, and way cheaper than most other options.

I think the throttle-by-wire systems coming out these days will ultimately be the final solution to this abruptness problem. Correcting it if not initially correct will consist of nothing more than an ECU re-flash.

That's assuming the manufacturer acknowledges there's a problem, which Honda doesn't seem to be too good about. My wife's Avalon has an electronic throttle, and it's got the most abrupt throttle tip-in of any car I've ever owned.
 
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Might want to consider Symtec grip heaters. Work great, and way cheaper than most other options.

I need to do some readin' up on the Symtec specs to see if they'll interface with the Honda grip controller. One thing I notice about these are the arrangement of the clutch-side vs. throttle-side elements. They appear to compensate for the clutch-side being in contact with the metal handlebar (i.e. heat sink), and the throttle-side being in contact with the plastic throttle tube. Now that I've got a metal throttle tube (i.e. G2 throttle tamer), I wonder if it would make sense having two clutch-side elements?

My wife's Avalon has an electronic throttle, and it's got the most abrupt throttle tip-in of any car I've ever owned.

My wife's Sienna is also throttle-by-wire. The abruptness is really bad in stop-and-go traffic.

:th1:
And talking about being Off Topic (motorcycle TBW), I would guess motorcycles of the future will have a throttle-side control housing with a built-in spring-return potentiometer (ie. analog output), or encoder (ie. digital output) that feeds a signal into the ECU. The ECU will output a signal to a throttle control module which servo-actuates the throttle-body butterfly valves directly. Anything resembling a throttle cable will be ancient history. On the same note, future (factory or aftermarket) motorcylce Cruise Control units will simply be a solid state module that outputs a voltage (analog) or pulse-train (digital) signal to the same ECU with a signal derived from the VSS and Set speed (i.e. substituting for the human-controlled throttle input). Again, the CC throttle cable will be history.

"It could happen!".. Judy Tenuta (comedien). And probably sooner than later when considering a plane on Auto Pilot (i.e. Throttle-by-Wire plus Steering-by-Wire). Sorry, the previous paragraph should be in a different thread altogether.:eek::

Matt
 
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I need to do some readin' up on the Symtec specs to see if they'll interface with the Honda grip controller. One thing I notice about these are the arrangement of the clutch-side vs. throttle-side elements. They appear to compensate for the clutch-side being in contact with the metal handlebar (i.e. heat sink), and the throttle-side being in contact with the plastic throttle tube. Now that I've got a metal throttle tube (i.e. G2 throttle tamer), I wonder if it would make sense having two clutch-side elements?



My wife's Sienna is also throttle-by-wire. The abruptness is really bad in stop-and-go traffic.

:th1:
And talking about being Off Topic (motorcycle TBW), I would guess motorcycles of the future will have a throttle-side control housing with a built-in spring-return potentiometer (ie. analog output), or encoder (ie. digital output) that feeds a signal into the ECU. The ECU will output a signal to a throttle control module which servo-actuates the throttle-body butterfly valves directly. Anything resembling a throttle cable will be ancient history. On the same note, future (factory or aftermarket) motorcylce Cruise Control units will simply be a solid state module that outputs a voltage (analog) or pulse-train (digital) signal to the same ECU with a signal derived from the VSS and Set speed (i.e. substituting for the human-controlled throttle input). Again, the CC throttle cable will be history.

"It could happen!".. Judy Tenuta (comedien). And probably sooner than later when considering a plane on Auto Pilot (i.e. Throttle-by-Wire plus Steering-by-Wire). Sorry, the previous paragraph should be in a different thread altogether.:eek::

Matt
LOL...strike while the mind is hot!
 
Re: G2 Tamer Throttle Tube

I need to do some readin' up on the Symtec specs to see if they'll interface with the Honda grip controller. One thing I notice about these are the arrangement of the clutch-side vs. throttle-side elements. They appear to compensate for the clutch-side being in contact with the metal handlebar (i.e. heat sink), and the throttle-side being in contact with the plastic throttle tube. Now that I've got a metal throttle tube (i.e. G2 throttle tamer), I wonder if it would make sense having two clutch-side elements?

Matt

If you get the Tamer with the Delrin bushings, it will be insulated from direct metal to metal contact with the handle bar so should not be much more of a heat sink than the plastic tube. I haven't noticed any difference in heat performance since fitting my Tamer using Symtecs.
 
I need to do some readin' up on the Symtec specs to see if they'll interface with the Honda grip controller. One thing I notice about these are the arrangement of the clutch-side vs. throttle-side elements. They appear to compensate for the clutch-side being in contact with the metal handlebar (i.e. heat sink), and the throttle-side being in contact with the plastic throttle tube. Now that I've got a metal throttle tube (i.e. G2 throttle tamer), I wonder if it would make sense having two clutch-side elements?


:th1:
And talking about being Off Topic (motorcycle TBW), I would guess motorcycles of the future will have a throttle-side control housing with a built-in spring-return potentiometer (ie. analog output), or encoder (ie. digital output) that feeds a signal into the ECU. The ECU will output a signal to a throttle control module which servo-actuates the throttle-body butterfly valves directly.

"It could happen!".. Judy Tenuta (comedien). And probably sooner than later when considering a plane on Auto Pilot (i.e. Throttle-by-Wire plus Steering-by-Wire). Sorry, the previous paragraph should be in a different thread altogether.:eek::

Matt

Although I haven't installed my TT yet, I would tend to agree with Jeff's observation regarding heat.

Harley already uses TBW on a few of their models. I don't know how sophisticated it is, though. It could be as simple as a rheostat controlling a motor on the throttle shaft. I agree with you, though, on the future of cruise control. The adaptive cruise on some cars (automatically slow the car and, if necessary, apply the brakes when you get too close to the car in front) certainly are using the ECU to control everything..

Did you know there have been experimental airplane landings that are completely computer controlled, with no pilot input? They use GPS augmented by ground based GPS transceivers located at the airport. Since the ground based unit knows exacty where it is, the system on the plane can compensate for the inherent errors in the GPS system.
 
The bad news is that I managed to do what I feared - I damaged my throttle-side Honda grip heater. :mad: It works when its off the tube, but quits when its on the tube (the resistance is two ohms off the bike, and open circuit on the bike). Since I can't buy a single grip heater, I'm kind of looking at these Hot Grips "BMW looking" grips with integrated heaters (like the Hondaline grips): Link. I have to do some investigation whether they'll interface with the Honda grip controller.

Matt

Matt, you evidently did what I did a few years ago, used compressed air to remove the Honda heated grips. The problem is that the heating elements inside the grips are not elastic and will break when the air ballons the grip. The good news is that I was able to buy a replacement Honda heated grip for the throttle side from David Silver Spares. Something like $40 at the time.
 
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