Rode some twisties here in central florida this weekend (FL-STOC) and it was really neat.
mitch
Mitch:
Obviously you were in the Central Florida Mountains. Did you have any problem with your ears popping with the extreme changes in elevation?
Pete
Rode some twisties here in central florida this weekend (FL-STOC) and it was really neat.
mitch
I using the same set up and yes there is a issue with it. However I believe it can be adjusted to compensate for the length difference as Joe mentioned. I don't think I'll have a chance until Turkey day to fool with it.So Joe,
Are you saying that the shorter than stock throttle tube doesn't mess with the way the ThrottleMeister works? I would have thought that the rubber piece from the the TM that goes over the tube (under the grip) would have issues. I thought it needed the tube support when the TM clamps down against it. I'm currently using BMW (non-heated) grips with my TM, if that makes a difference...
Looks like I'll have to wait until Thanksgiving to do my install. Too many honeydo's this weekend.
- Jim
BTW, I just used my new G2 through an entire Ironman and it simply rocked!!! I'll type up a review probably tomorrow.
Also, before this I had some slack in my throttle but after the install it seems that slack is either not there or the throttle works so seamlessly now that it's not noticeable.
Interesting comment. I also noticed that there were fewer threads exposed on the free play adjustment after installation of the TT than there were before. Makes me think that the overall diameter of the cam, or at least the part of the cam the return cable is wrapped around is a bit larger than the OEM cam.
Makes me think that the overall diameter of the cam, or at least the part of the cam the return cable is wrapped around is a bit larger than the OEM cam.
I'll most likely sign up for the group buy when it starts up again but I'm wondering after looking at the comparison photos of both the new and OEM parts side by side if it would be possible to achieve the same effect by grinding down the side of the OEM throttle tube? Can we get a photo of the cam end of each throttle tube directly lined up so we can see the profile easier?
I think that would work, but if you don't build up the rest of the cam diameter a bit to make up for the initial loss of throttle movement, you may not be able to achieve WFO before reaching the rotation stop on the grip.
The bad news is that I managed to do what I feared - I damaged my throttle-side Honda grip heater. It works when its off the tube, but quits when its on the tube (the resistance is two ohms off the bike, and open circuit on the bike). Since I can't buy a single grip heater, I'm kind of looking at these Hot Grips "BMW looking" grips with integrated heaters (like the Hondaline grips): Link. I have to do some investigation whether they'll interface with the Honda grip controller.
Matt
I think the throttle-by-wire systems coming out these days will ultimately be the final solution to this abruptness problem. Correcting it if not initially correct will consist of nothing more than an ECU re-flash.
Might want to consider Symtec grip heaters. Work great, and way cheaper than most other options.
My wife's Avalon has an electronic throttle, and it's got the most abrupt throttle tip-in of any car I've ever owned.
LOL...strike while the mind is hot!I need to do some readin' up on the Symtec specs to see if they'll interface with the Honda grip controller. One thing I notice about these are the arrangement of the clutch-side vs. throttle-side elements. They appear to compensate for the clutch-side being in contact with the metal handlebar (i.e. heat sink), and the throttle-side being in contact with the plastic throttle tube. Now that I've got a metal throttle tube (i.e. G2 throttle tamer), I wonder if it would make sense having two clutch-side elements?
My wife's Sienna is also throttle-by-wire. The abruptness is really bad in stop-and-go traffic.
:th1:
And talking about being Off Topic (motorcycle TBW), I would guess motorcycles of the future will have a throttle-side control housing with a built-in spring-return potentiometer (ie. analog output), or encoder (ie. digital output) that feeds a signal into the ECU. The ECU will output a signal to a throttle control module which servo-actuates the throttle-body butterfly valves directly. Anything resembling a throttle cable will be ancient history. On the same note, future (factory or aftermarket) motorcylce Cruise Control units will simply be a solid state module that outputs a voltage (analog) or pulse-train (digital) signal to the same ECU with a signal derived from the VSS and Set speed (i.e. substituting for the human-controlled throttle input). Again, the CC throttle cable will be history.
"It could happen!".. Judy Tenuta (comedien). And probably sooner than later when considering a plane on Auto Pilot (i.e. Throttle-by-Wire plus Steering-by-Wire). Sorry, the previous paragraph should be in a different thread altogether.:
Matt
I need to do some readin' up on the Symtec specs to see if they'll interface with the Honda grip controller. One thing I notice about these are the arrangement of the clutch-side vs. throttle-side elements. They appear to compensate for the clutch-side being in contact with the metal handlebar (i.e. heat sink), and the throttle-side being in contact with the plastic throttle tube. Now that I've got a metal throttle tube (i.e. G2 throttle tamer), I wonder if it would make sense having two clutch-side elements?
Matt
I need to do some readin' up on the Symtec specs to see if they'll interface with the Honda grip controller. One thing I notice about these are the arrangement of the clutch-side vs. throttle-side elements. They appear to compensate for the clutch-side being in contact with the metal handlebar (i.e. heat sink), and the throttle-side being in contact with the plastic throttle tube. Now that I've got a metal throttle tube (i.e. G2 throttle tamer), I wonder if it would make sense having two clutch-side elements?
:th1:
And talking about being Off Topic (motorcycle TBW), I would guess motorcycles of the future will have a throttle-side control housing with a built-in spring-return potentiometer (ie. analog output), or encoder (ie. digital output) that feeds a signal into the ECU. The ECU will output a signal to a throttle control module which servo-actuates the throttle-body butterfly valves directly.
"It could happen!".. Judy Tenuta (comedien). And probably sooner than later when considering a plane on Auto Pilot (i.e. Throttle-by-Wire plus Steering-by-Wire). Sorry, the previous paragraph should be in a different thread altogether.:
Matt
The bad news is that I managed to do what I feared - I damaged my throttle-side Honda grip heater. It works when its off the tube, but quits when its on the tube (the resistance is two ohms off the bike, and open circuit on the bike). Since I can't buy a single grip heater, I'm kind of looking at these Hot Grips "BMW looking" grips with integrated heaters (like the Hondaline grips): Link. I have to do some investigation whether they'll interface with the Honda grip controller.
Matt