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250llb axle and a 30 lb trailer with a 30-50 lb load sounds like using a daully to go get dinner ?
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250llb axle and a 30 lb trailer with a 30-50 lb load sounds like using a daully to go get dinner ?
Posted via Mobile Device

That's 250 MAXIMUM, Gene. 80 lbs. total in my case unless I'm carrying spare tars. Bump strikes should give deflection, instantaneous spikes.

Dave, do you get deflection on the axle with normal loads?
 
250llb axle and a 30 lb trailer with a 30-50 lb load sounds like using a daully to go get dinner ?
Posted via Mobile Device

Good point, Gene!

Considering the options of "Start Angle" in the pictures below with a savy welder, you could probably extend the arm length and bring that rating down to a more acceptable spec.
 

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From NT answer section

The hubs that would work with these axles would be #204 for a 4 hole with a 4" bolt circle or #205 for a 5 hole on 4 1/2" circle. Then select the trailer tire that you would want to fit which ever bolt pattern you go with. A 4.80 x 8 tire with standard rim and 4 x 4 bolt pattern would be #12110 and 5 x 4 1/2 item #121111
clear as mud?

204_lg.gif
205_lg.gif
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Spotz has it right. The flex axle part discussed is simply an axle stub with 1" diameter spindle. Many different hubs can be fitted as well as tire wheel combo's.

If the axles are bought in pairs they are asymmetric. Keep that in mind for design stage. There is a left and right dictated by the flange. You'd have to be careful welding on the tube containing the rubber jounce material otherwise you could turn them into symmetric parts. :wine2:

I'll have to get Spotz to get in his piggy bank and come up here so we can build him one.
 
Well when Mark buys a set I'll take the one he dose not use;) It's the hitch part that I balk at, speaking of which, if these use a pto take off shaft or similar for a coupler, what am I missing here, seems like it would just fall to the right or left when stopped depending on balance of the load. something obvious surely, :confused:
 
Duhh, I knew it had a U-joint I was confusing my self by applying the rotational aspect of a PTO shaft to this application, both ends fixed, movement in only two planes,, move on
 
Well when Mark buys a set I'll take the one he dose not use;) It's the hitch part that I balk at, speaking of which, if these use a pto take off shaft or similar for a coupler, what am I missing here, seems like it would just fall to the right or left when stopped depending on balance of the load. something obvious surely, :confused:

Sounds good Tom
 
Looks to me like the axle is made to bolt on? Or, can it be disassembled for welding?

The frame could be made asymetrical, flipped top to bottom so either left or right axle could be attached before the ribs are added, single center plane for the wheel. Still similar to what Kreis builds but with the added torsion rubber.

attachment.php
 
Duhh, I knew it had a U-joint I was confusing my self by applying the rotational aspect of a PTO shaft to this application, both ends fixed, movement in only two planes,, move on

you got it right, Tom. Vertical axis is for left/right, horizontal axis is for up down. No twist as it leans with the bike.
 
Shall I launch my AutoCad and see what we can whip up? Or has ScubaDave do'd that already?

It's already done is cad (autocad inventor). I can supply drawings in PDF so all can read them. If you have inventor R10 or newer I can send the models as well.
 
Looks to me like the axle is made to bolt on? Or, can it be disassembled for welding?

The frame could be made asymetrical, flipped top to bottom so either left or right axle could be attached before the ribs are added, single center plane for the wheel. Still similar to what Kreis builds but with the added torsion rubber.

attachment.php

George, the only part where you need to be carefull with the welding on my design is in the lengthing of the arm. That part can not be taken apart and you do need to take great care not to melt the rubber in the 2" tube.

As for having a left or right axel, it just depends on where you weld on the bolt plate to connect the axle. It is bias to 1 side a bit, but not a big deal. Once you add in 4 inches to the arm the part with the bolt holes is centered enough. Let me see if I can link my PDF.
 
Wow thanks that's crazy helpful. I can take that to a friend that could fab something up like this for me, cause everything you guys are talking about sounds like latin to me.... Anything you would change?

If I were to build mine again, I would shorten the tube in front of the box a bit. Maybe 10 or 12 inches. (keep in mind the one I built is longer than shown in the drawing by about 10 inches, go figure why I would cut it back to what was designed)

I would and will at some point shorten the t kickstand bar I have on the front for when it is not hooked up. With it as wide as I made it, I have hit the wheels on the ground when in the twisties. Also I my take off the wheels.

They just turn too well, if I unhook and park on a non level surface I have to chalk the wheels or it rolls away. LOL
 
Dave, I am guessing your material is a stick of 1-1/2" and a chunk of 2" - .120" wall for the main frame?

These torsion axles have a certain amount of deflection. Camber is affected slightly as the load increases. Have you seen any side affects from it? Looks like your start angle is a 45?

Now if I just had the knowhow and resources to build a box like that cat (Blues Traveler) over on MotoCampers did. :run1:

Jeff
 
That thing is a work of rolling art :bow1:

Heavier than expected tho with all the add-ons and stiffening.

Dave, thanks for those pics. good job on lengthening the arm. Gotta figure how that would work if ya didn't lengthen it.

<edit, add> D'Oh! :doh1: Lenthening let's turn the axle 180 back toward the bracket, brings the wheel closer to center. Not as much offset needed. 2 birds with one STone. Also, your rear "T" is symmetrical so either left or right axle can be used. Good design work.

Ash, my trailer is 60" from axle center to universal joint center.
 
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