What did you do with your ST1100/ST1300 today?

With the reservoir fluid level an 1/8" off the bottom, soaked it up with a rag, then swabbed the entire reservoir bowl clean before adding the new fluid.

Sometimes using a different tool makes the job easier. I got some of these from my chemist brother to suck out all the old brake or clutch fluid from our small reservoirs. You can find these syringes online. Note that it has a long thin tip that will get to the bottom corner of the bowl....

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Sometimes using a different tool makes the job easier. I got some of these from my chemist brother to suck out all the old brake or clutch fluid from our small reservoirs. You can find these syringes online. Note that it has a long thin tip that will get to the bottom corner of the bowl....

20191219_211217a.jpg
A tool for every job.....sures makes life easier. We have the technology! The challenge is finding the tool in the garage. :shrug2:
 
Today, made the ride‐in appointment with Jay @ RDL. Saddle and seatback end of next month is a priority upgrade . Am not as young as I used to be. The RDL fitted saddle fixed my 1100 woes and I have no doubt it will fix the 1300 also. There's a bonus too, 574 miles each way in the middle of winter.
 
How's yours doing after the new tires?
Did the test ride only yesterday. Only have about 50 miles on them. More than likely, the tires won't be broken in until I ride to Shasta at the end of next month for a fitted RDL saddle and seat back for the 09.

Mechanically, the machine is dependable now. Physically, am now focusing on finding the 09's sweet spot. That took me about 3 years on the 1100. Hope to have my 09 tamed by next summer.

Today found a giant anchor bolt in one of my 10 plies....20191220_125431.jpg

When I fire up the 1100, love the lope the engine makes. I rejetted and re-needled the carbs. It's no longer anything of it's former self. With 14 inch cans on the 1100, sure can't hear a whine. Right ear finally gave up the ghost this year. No more stereo.
 
replaced small round convex blind spot mirrors with these wide angle ones. Really like them much better: objects arent as small and can see blindspots behind shoulders where cars sneak up


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Don't you hate it when that happens? :censored:

I''ve lost count on how many objects have punctured my tires in the last ten years! :well1:
That little gem took nearly an hour to remove. Had a smooth neck between the threads and tapered shank end.

Finally resorted to using the vice grips and was able to get the threads to engage the rubber. Then it unthreaded just fine.

It did fray some of the belts. Used a dremel on the shards, smoothed the rubber and applied the cement and patch. 55# tire....
Truly, a wait a minute vine. Dogs were happy to get a drive to the Trump golf cousre and a walk during sunset.20191018_141607.jpg20191002_111147.jpg
 
Got my '09 ST1300 back from the garage, the irritating minor water leak is fixed and the Turbo Tom rad guard blasted and re-powder coated.

Looking clean and cared for once more, but anyone know of a paint match the engine casing? It could do with a touch up here and there.
 
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replaced small round convex blind spot mirrors with these wide angle ones. Really like them much better: objects arent as small and can see blindspots behind shoulders where cars sneak up


85CC4DBA-FBAA-405C-A54A-581DD106D866.jpeg
F72D3665-9FE8-405C-8B9A-980929FD3F94.jpeg
926C5DE8-2381-4592-A635-EEEBD9D55434.jpeg

OK - that fairly busy dash (despite what my fellow British Commonwealther Upt’North may say) begs a question that has been bugging me for a couple of years: how do you reach the danged ignition key with all that stuff in the way?

I have an MCL riser and the built-in RAM ball is used to mount a Garmin Zumo plus I like to ride with an SW Motek tank bag. It is a real struggle to get my hand down in there to use the key.

Has anyone found a good way to address that issue?

Pete
 
Installed a FIAMM 72112 "Freeway Blaster" horn on my 2004 ST1300. $20.00CAN at Canadian tire. Says 133 Db on the package, but does not give test conditions, so that number is pretty much meaningless. Better than the anemic "meep, meep" of the stock horn. Not as good as a full-on air horn. Installation was pretty easy: remove inner cowl on bike's right side, the stock horn is right there. Unplug the stock horn, unbolt the mounting bracket and the horn is is out. Mount the new horn using the enclosed bracket, plug in the terminals, reinstall the inner cowl and your done. The longest part of the installation is removing and re-installing the cowl. FYI I am absolutely not mechanical-minded, have none of the proper tools and it required about two hours to complete the installation. I am sure it would take someone who knows what they are doing about 30 minutes.
 
Better than the anemic "meep, meep" of the stock horn. Not as good as a full-on air horn.
The stock wiring is incapable of powering a loud horn to its full potential. Fiamm sells a high tone and a low tone in the Freeway Blaster line. Run heavier gauge wires from an appropriate power source (i.e. fuse block) and install one of each high and low tones and you will sound like a big old Buick coming down the road when you hit the horn button.
 
So the Kenwood TK-8180-K 2-way radio is configured with the KRK-10 remote control interface head that doesnt go very deep back towards the ignition as would if mounting the whole radio between the bars. Pretty easy to reach over it.

Theres a recent post here in the forums where a guy turned a pocket flip knife into a key extension handle. Sounds made to order for you.

OK - that fairly busy dash (despite what my fellow British Commonwealther Upt’North may say) begs a question that has been bugging me for a couple of years: how do you reach the danged ignition key with all that stuff in the way?

I have an MCL riser and the built-in RAM ball is used to mount a Garmin Zumo plus I like to ride with an SW Motek tank bag. It is a real struggle to get my hand down in there to use the key.

Has anyone found a good way to address that issue?

Pete
 
The stock wiring is incapable of powering a loud horn to its full potential. Fiamm sells a high tone and a low tone in the Freeway Blaster line. Run heavier gauge wires from an appropriate power source (i.e. fuse block) and install one of each high and low tones and you will sound like a big old Buick coming down the road when you hit the horn button.
Thanks, Andrew. I'll try that.
 
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