Valve adjustment

W0QNX said:
I might be the only one here who thinks this but removing the front engine cover just to rotate the engine and see the position marks better is NOT a shortcut. No way no how is removing that cover for a Valve check-adjustment the thing to do.

I didn't post anything from the original posters first post but how the heck do you think the valves now suddenly need adjustment just because you're starting the bike up from a winter shut down? Valve train system should knock some. If it doesn't is when there is no clearance between parts. And a winter sleep won't make valve parts move.

But maybe it was in need of repair before you put the bike up????
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Didn't notice any knocking noise coming from the engine when I put it up in October. When I started the other day after 5 months, there was a pronounced knocking coming from #2 cylinder. It's noticeable at idle. When faster than idle, it's not as loud. The previous owner said that a valve adjustment was done at 66K miles and now it has 78.5K.
 
Larry Fine said:
It almost seems that there are more need-mechanicall-help threads and posts about 1300s than 1100s, despite the age range difference. Am I imagining it, or is it true, and an indication of the 1100s' reliability?
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I've been on this site since 2005 and for several reasons many of the 1100 riders just didn't participate on this forum. That seems to have changed over the last three years or so as a lot of the older sites have kind of fallen by the wayside. So by far, the largest amount of material available on this site deals with the 1300 but it doesn't mean that it's any more or less reliable than the 1100. Just my 2¢...
 
CYYJ said:
1) If you are going to be replacing the thermostat (implies removing the radiator), then take the front wheel off, take the rad off, and take that whole cover off the front of the engine (clutch cover). It is one heck of a lot easier to turn the engine over and line up the timing marks when you don't have to look through the little holes in the clutch cover! You will need to buy and replace a gasket if you take the cover off, but it is not expensive.
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The gasket might not be expensive but by far the hardest part of that job is removing all of the stuck on old gasket paper material off of the block. Which is another reason not to even consider taking that cover off to begin with for a valve adjustment job. I do appreciate the photos that you took when you worked on your bike though. That can be a help to someone in the future.

W0QNX said:
I might be the only one here who thinks this but removing the front engine cover just to rotate the engine and see the position marks better is NOT a shortcut. No way no how is removing that cover for a Valve check-adjustment the thing to do.
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Good point and if you are simply doing a valve inspection I don't even bother removing the timing hole cap. I simply line up the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets to the cylinder heads and you will be good to go to take your measurements...
 
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jamalc6996 said:
Didn't notice any knocking noise coming from the engine when I put it up in October. When I started the other day after 5 months, there was a pronounced knocking coming from #2 cylinder. It's noticeable at idle. When faster than idle, it's not as loud. The previous owner said that a valve adjustment was done at 66K miles and now it has 78.5K.
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I don't believe there's any audible symptoms when a valve is a little out of adjustment, so I suspect this has nothing to do with your valve clearances being slightly out of spec.
 
There have been one or two reports of the intermediate shaft bearing going bad. This is the shaft with the pulley on the exterior and the gear for the cam drive inside. When this bearing goes bad and wobbles a bit, it usually also damages the seal, causing an oil leak.


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Scooter said:
Good point and if you are simply doing a valve inspection I don't even bother removing the timing hole cap. I simply line up the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets to the cylinder heads and you will be good to go to take your measurements...
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Yep.... I don't see the purpose of the front timing marks when you have the marks on the cam shaft gears (granted you haven't dropped the chain and totally screwed up the alignment of everything .
 
T_C said:
of the front timing marks when you have the marks on the cam shaft gears (granted you haven't dropped the chain and totally screwed up the alignment of e
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For me if it turns out to be an inspection only (everything is in spec) I do this. When I have to go the next step and pull a cam to swap shims, I will then remove the timing hole cap and grab an inspection mirror. It adds maybe 5 min and is cheap insurance. It is pretty easy to see in there with a mirror and not a big deal when the bike is on a lift. It is verification that you are not off a tooth and everything is right before buttoning things up. I know another trick that others do is to mark a tooth and a link with a sharpie so they know where to position the cam when putting things back together.

Everyone has their own process and I guess I kind of do a hybrid of just looking at the reference marks on the cams and using the inspection hole.
 
sennister said:
For me if it turns out to be an inspection only (everything is in spec) I do this. When I have to go the next step and pull a cam to swap shims, I will then remove the timing hole cap and grab an inspection mirror. It adds maybe 5 min and is cheap insurance. It is pretty easy to see in there with a mirror and not a big deal when the bike is on a lift. It is verification that you are not off a tooth and everything is right before buttoning things up. I know another trick that others do is to mark a tooth and a link with a sharpie so they know where to position the cam when putting things back together.

Everyone has their own process and I guess I kind of do a hybrid of just looking at the reference marks on the cams and using the inspection hole.
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Good to see you back active on ST-O! It's been a while.

I always used the timing marks in the inspection hole and on the gears. Habit I guess, but I never thought the few seconds to remove the cap and look at each T1/T2 mark was excessive. I think it is especially important when the bike requires camshaft removal as the cam gear marks do not line up perfectly and it is easy to get one camshaft off one tooth. In addition to the sharpie mark on the timing chain and gear one can use a small zip tie through a hole in the cam gear to fix the chain in place on the gear. One time I used the sharpie method and then after removing the camshaft I accidently wiped the mark off the gear with a cleaning rag. On the other side cylinder bank I used a zip tie.
 
Larry Fine said:
It almost seems that there are more need-mechanicall-help threads and posts about 1300s than 1100s, despite the age range difference. Am I imagining it, or is it true, and an indication of the 1100s' reliability?
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So why don't you just say what you're alluding to? That 1300's aren't reliable? ;)

Probably several reasons. Check Craigs List, Ebay, etc... there's more 1300's for sale than 1100's. More new 13 owners looking for input. 1100 owners have probably had their bikes longer and hold on to them like grim death. So they are more familiar with their bikes. There may even be more 13's on the road. Who knows?
 
I'll just say this: I've never wished I had gotten an 1100. I like new technology . :biggrin:
 
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Whooshka said:
I like new technology . :biggrin:
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I was this ' ' close to buying an ST11... glad I didn't too. I hate working on single carbs and chokes, much less 4 of 'em. ;)
Still a nice bike.. just prefer the higher saddle, more horses and beautiful ease of fuel injection.
 
dwalby said:
I don't believe there's any audible symptoms when a valve is a little out of adjustment, so I suspect this has nothing to do with your valve clearances being slightly out of spec.
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If it isn't valve knocking coming from the #2 cylinder, then what could the noise be? It's coming from the front left side of engine as you're sitting on it.
 
dduelin said:
Good to see you back active on ST-O! It's been a while.

I always used the timing marks in the inspection hole and on the gears. Habit I guess, but I never thought the few seconds to remove the cap and look at each T1/T2 mark was excessive. I think it is especially important when the bike requires camshaft removal as the cam gear marks do not line up perfectly and it is easy to get one camshaft off one tooth. In addition to the sharpie mark on the timing chain and gear one can use a small zip tie through a hole in the cam gear to fix the chain in place on the gear. One time I used the sharpie method and then after removing the camshaft I accidently wiped the mark off the gear with a cleaning rag. On the other side cylinder bank I used a zip tie.
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Yeah, busy with life. Been lurking here and there. It was probably around when I got a new job that I started not posting as much as I am way to busy between that and the kids getting older. They finally figured out this position that I am in is way too much work for one person and we are actively hiring another person and rumors now about that turning into a 3rd position. Then we got a new camper so we are not around much in the summer. That eats into saddle time but I still do have 3 STs in the STable.

Never tried the zip tie trick. I will have to try that the next time I do an adjustment. Is there enough slack to lift the cam out or are you just tipping it up enough to clear the buckets? You are right that it is easy to wipe off the sharpie marks. I have done that as well but like I mentioned, if I am pulling a cam, I will pull the plug to make sure all the reference marks are spot on and then there are the reference marks on the cams. The sharpie just helps speed up things a bit to get on the right tooth but I still check the reference marks before buttoning up everything.
 
I'm in a similar boat. I did a valve adjustment last November as well, and since then I've had what sounds like knocking. It's more pronounced on the left side of the bike. At the time, I was pretty darn sure I did everything right but... still a worry. I've got perhaps a thousand miles on since then. I've done a starter valve sync, a balance shaft adjustment, etc. and while it's better I still have what sounds like knocking.

I used my mechanic's stethoscope and I do hear knocking on the left but I can't really pinpoint where it might be coming from.

I don't think I have an oil leak so I don't think it'd be the intermediate shaft.

Any thoughts?
 
NobodySpecial said:
I'm in a similar boat. I did a valve adjustment last November as well, and since then I've had what sounds like knocking. It's more pronounced on the left side of the bike. At the time, I was pretty darn sure I did everything right but... still a worry. I've got perhaps a thousand miles on since then. I've done a starter valve sync, a balance shaft adjustment, etc. and while it's better I still have what sounds like knocking.

I used my mechanic's stethoscope and I do hear knocking on the left but I can't really pinpoint where it might be coming from.

I don't think I have an oil leak so I don't think it'd be the intermediate shaft.

Any thoughts?
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Does it change the sound when you pull in the clutch?
 
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