Article [13] ST1300 - Rear Flange Bearing Replacement

Well, I didn't noticed that imprinted on the side but it felt precision enough for me with a hand inspection and absolutely better than what Honda originally put in there to do the job. Prior to purchasing, I called VXB Bearing ahead of time (Anaheim, CA) and only talked to the person who answered the phone. She who spoke english and she answered all my questions on the spot. Checking Amazon seller ratings, they have received 4.9 out of 5 stars (673 ratings). Take it for it's worth.

To coin a phrase from Forrest, "...and that's all I have to say about that."
 
I just replaced my flange bearings this weekend too, using bearings from the 10 pack from VXB. Easy job, thanks to the great information here on the site!
 
BlueSTeed said:
I want to thank former MOTM, Sennister for allowing me use his garage and for his personal assistance. He's got the tools and the lift and a tire changer, oh, and a beer fridge too. I'm thinking of asking him if I can rent a room out back so I can hang out there full time.

Sennister - thanks for your help as always! I've really enjoyed the opportunity to do hands-on work with a fellow ST rider, especially one as mechanically fearless as you. You've helped me feel more empowered about getting underneath the tupperware. In a funny way, I'm actually looking forward to my next repair!
Click to expand...

As usual, not a problem. You even gave me a hand with bleeding my brakes. I even was able to take the 1300 to work today as I wrapped up everything on that after getting home from Pie. I must say the brakes did feel a little better. My rear brake (foot brake) had been feeling a little spongy before now it is nice and firm.

Oh and about Pie, you know the issue with living up by me is that I am only 7 miles from Betty's Pies. It doesn't do the waist line any good.
 
Senn, we're in luck! Just found these (see pic below). First-Tek riding gear has come out with their new PieMaster riding pant. Stretch textile weave with superelasto-waist band. One size fits all!

pie not included.
 

Attachments

  • elastic pant.jpg
    elastic pant.jpg
    5.5 KB · Views: 323
Re: ST1300 Rear Flange Bearing Replacement

Checked my bearings at 43k during tire replacement and found the drive side to be notchy. I had not heard or felt anything different front last tire change. Dealer changed all bearings and upon checking them after disassembly found them to be faulty. Glad I checked.
 
Just replaced my rear tire (PR2 from Avon Storm II) and flange bearings yesterday (to CBR single bearing). Thanks to Mellow for this article; I'm embarassed that my bike isn't anywhere near as pristine as his in the photos...but it gets me where I want to go nonetheless. Here are a few pictures of what you DON'T want to see when you look at the bearings! I had been experiencing a 'settle' when going around corners, not sure if it was tire related or bearing related, but planned to check both when I did the tire swap. The wheel bearings were good to go, smooth as silk. The drive flange bearing was not.
 

Attachments

  • 2012-03-12 16.22.15.jpg
    2012-03-12 16.22.15.jpg
    188.4 KB · Views: 136
  • 2012-03-12 16.22.30.jpg
    2012-03-12 16.22.30.jpg
    162.7 KB · Views: 146
  • 2012-03-12 16.32.10.jpg
    2012-03-12 16.32.10.jpg
    140.8 KB · Views: 133
  • 2012-03-12 16.47.46.jpg
    2012-03-12 16.47.46.jpg
    145.7 KB · Views: 147
  • 2012-03-12 16.48.08.jpg
    2012-03-12 16.48.08.jpg
    56.4 KB · Views: 142
Glad it helped Gus, don't worry about the clean bike thing, I clean for than I ride and I'm trying to get some counseling on that.
 
I took the driven flange off the aluminum part, why, no clue. Anyway, what is the torque value for the 4 lock nuts. I can not find it in the manual
 
If you are talking the "driven flange assembly" you may have to go with a standard torque, I cannot find the actual torque spec for those nuts.
What size socket did you use to remove them?



Greg
 
Last edited:
jfheath said:
In the Honda manual for UK under General Information (Page 1-17 in my copy), Rear Wheel/Suspension section, it gives this

Final Driven Flange Nut, 4 of them, 14mm dia thread, 150Nm (111lbf ft) Note 5 (which says it is a U Nut)

Exactly the same figures are given in the 2004+ Addendum.

That sounds quite a lot, but that's what it says.
I don't think I have a torque wrench that goes up that high.
Click to expand...
Thanks guys for your help. I checked the net for torque values for 14 mm, grade 8 bolts. I found the torque should be between 110-175. 110 sounded right, and you have just confirmed my thoughts.
 
Hey STony G. For some inconvenient reason, one cannot add an image to a private message unless it's sourced from a URL and this isn't so I'll paste it here. Continuing--pictured, are the "4 lock nuts" as interpreted by Senn based off your written inquiry to me. Hope these are it. In any case, I want to recognize Sennister for the quick response, his input and for the image. Good luck STony G
Lock Nuts.JPG
 
BlueSTeed,
Those are the lock nuts. I didn't have a chance to check the manual last night to the torque values. I need to order some parts from Huntington Beach Honda, they are the So Cal dealer for the ST1300P. I'll check with the sevice manager, maybe he can help.
 
If we remove the bearings with the remover, after hammering them out, can we use the same bearings?
Is there a way to take them out without hammering? Is there a way to pull them out ?
 
Badger said:
If we remove the bearings with the remover, after hammering them out, can we use the same bearings?
Is there a way to take them out without hammering? Is there a way to pull them out ?
Click to expand...

I'm sure there's a bearing puller tools out there you can get, I've seen one at harbor freight, just never purchased it.
 
A press can also be used ... with care and proper blocking//supports as they are so strong that they can distort your wheel.
image_11223.jpg
You'd want to press against the good bearing's outer race with something of nearly the same size--for example, another identical bearing's outer race can be used (cut a slot in it so that it can 'shrink' and not get lodged in place of the bearing that you just pressed out).

But regardless of pounding, removing, pressing, or otherwise removing the bearings, still replace the bearings. They're too unreliable and too cheap NOT to replace if you've gone to the trouble of taking them out.
 
Badger said:
If we remove the bearings with the remover, after hammering them out, can we use the same bearings?
Is there a way to take them out without hammering? Is there a way to pull them out ?
Click to expand...

You can purchase the bearing removal tools for a little less than $100. They require the use of a hammer. I have used these bearing removal tools. I recommend replacement bearings especially if you still have the OEMs installed. My OEM bearings were open bearings and I didn't think they were very robust in build. New replacement bearings are inexpensive and a good piece of mind. I believe VbX.com sells the bearings.
 
I purchased a hankook ventus v4 for rear and i took the avon storm 2 out. The rimb has lots of rusting (iron rusts went through the aluminum on the edge lips) so I decided to powder coat. I have to take the bearings on the wheel (not on the flange) since they are changed 20k miles ago. One bearing is 10 bucks which is ok but the other one is 42 $.
Motorcycle is a frustrating expensive thing. Cars don't have these kinds of annoying deals.... Sad to say.
I have a bearing puller by harbor freight already but the diameter is too small and there is this damn spacer there... It leaves only one option which is hammering... I don't like to use any bearing after hammering... Grrrrrrrrr.......
Bearing # 19 is 16$ but the bearing # 20 is 44$ which makes me sad :(
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom