Article [13] ST1300 - Rear Flange Bearing Replacement

Re: ST1300-Rear Flange Bearing Replacement

STark1050 said:
I just got around to replacing the flange bearings, as I stated when the dealer said they were bad I didn't believe him. When I got them off it was obvious, about a third of the balls were missing. I'm glad I replaced them now instead of having them fail later on a trip.
The procedure is quite simple and can be done in about a hour.
Click to expand...

How were any balls missing? My flange bearings were sandwiched with the open side of the bearings facing each other. No where for the balls to go. Now they did fall out once I seperated the two bearings.

79500 miles... not so bad. The main wheel bearings still feel and sound fine.
 
Re: ST1300-Rear Flange Bearing Replacement

I did this once without the special honda tools and then again - only 4,000 miles later(and the replaced bearings were in excellent condition) - with the special tools. Since I ride long miles I wanted to use the right tools to make sure the bearings were seated perfectly. Using the special honda tools makes this task a breeze - and even fun.

Here are the Honda tools needed. You'll want the 25mm pilot, which isn't in the Service Manual in the Flange Bearing section, as a guide when inserting the new bearings. Very important because it keeps the driver centered.

Driver 07749-0010000 $22.14
Attachment 28x30 07946-1870100 $7.36
Attachment 42x47 07746-0010300 $21.18
Pilot 20mm 07746-0040500 $4.58
Pilot 25mm 07746-0040600 $5.65

Total: $ 60.91 plus shipping from boats.net
 

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Re: ST1300-Rear Flange Bearing Replacement

RCS said:
I did this once without the special honda tools and then again - only 4,000 miles later(and the replaced bearings were in excellent condition) - with the special tools. Since I ride long miles I wanted to use the right tools to make sure the bearings were seated perfectly. Using the special honda tools makes this task a breeze - and even fun.

Here are the Honda tools needed. You'll want the 25mm pilot, which isn't in the Service Manual, as a guide when inserting the new bearings. Very important because it keeps the driver centered.

Driver 07749-0010000 $22.14
Attachment 28x30 07946-1870100 $7.36
Attachment 42x47 07746-0010300 $21.18
Pilot 20mm 07746-0040500 $4.58
Pilot 25mm 07746-0040600 $5.65

Total: $ 60.91 plus shipping from boats.net
Click to expand...

Will those accommodate the flange bearings, other bearings in the rear wheel and also the front wheel bearings?

How about a picture of all the tools?
 
Re: ST1300-Rear Flange Bearing Replacement

Mellow said:
Will those accommodate the flange bearings, other bearings in the rear wheel and also the front wheel bearings?
Click to expand...

Some of the above tools can be used on other parts of the Honda ST1300 like the front and rear wheel bearings and I believe other things too. To do the front and rear bearings though, you'll need a few additional special tools that are listed in the Service Manual.

I purchased all the tools for flange, front wheel, and rear wheel bearings. I believe the total cost was about $125. All tools in picture below. I rationalized that the cost of these new tools was less expensive ( in time and money)than one trip to the dealer. At the same time I also purchased a full round of new bearings for flange, front, and rear wheels to have on hand during tire changes.

And, with the special tools there was no need to freeze the bearings prior to installation. They went in smoothly with delicate but firm taps on the bearing driver.

Edit add: Don't forget to use a 1/2" drive torque wrench on the rear axle nut - 80ft/lbs. You can purchase an inexpensive rail type at Tractor Supply company for about $21 including shipping.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/...frasl-2-in-drive-needle-torque-wrench-3835187
 

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Re: ST1300-Rear Flange Bearing Replacement

RCS said:
Some of the above tools can be used on other parts of the Honda ST1300 like the front and rear wheel bearings and I believe other things too. To do the front and rear bearings though, you'll need a few additional special tools that are listed in the Service Manual.

I purchased all the tools for flange, front wheel, and rear wheel bearings. I believe the total cost was about $125. I rationalized that the cost of these new tools was less expensive ( in time and money)than one trip to the dealer. At the same time I also purchased a full round of new bearings for flange, front, and rear wheels to have on hand during tire changes.

And, with the special tools there was no need to freeze the bearings prior to installation. They went in smoothly with delicate but firm taps on the bearing driver.
Click to expand...

Thank you sir.
 
Re: ST1300-Rear Flange Bearing Replacement

Txrebel said:
How were any balls missing? My flange bearings were sandwiched with the open side of the bearings facing each other. No where for the balls to go. Now they did fall out once I seperated the two bearings.

79500 miles... not so bad. The main wheel bearings still feel and sound fine.
Click to expand...

It looked like the balls missing were a mass of goo jammed between the two.
 
Re: ST1300-Rear Flange Bearing Replacement

I use one of these often just for grins n giggles. I always feel them when changing tires though.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AXCOT/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0002SQYSM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0Q65HXGGE4S4MVBCN9F3
 
Re: ST1300-Rear Flange Bearing Replacement

2003 ST-1300A / 40K miles

I just got around to replacing the rubber on both ends, and while I was in there, I checked the rear bearings, and here's what I found...

Both left and right WHEEL bearings were turning very smooth doing the finger test.

The flange bearings were "notchy and stiff".

I pressed out the two twin ball bearings while still attached to their inner carrier.

Once out of the drive flange, the bearings turned smooth as silk.

I put them back in the flange and they were stiff again.

Back out, and they were smooth as silk.

I figured that somehow, when both bearings were pressed on at the same time, this created a lateral bind of the two races.

I reinstalled the inner carrier with one bearing instead of two, but even with one bearing in the flange, I could still fee roughness.

I'm beginning to think the flange isn't the right diameter for the outer race, and when the bearings are installed, it distorts the outer race enough to create a little interference.

As far as I can tell, these bearings don't support any weight of the bike, but just keep the flange aligned with the drive gear.

I used a shop press to remove and install these bearings ... they are tight enough that they don't just come out with hand pressure.

Don
 
Re: ST1300-Rear Flange Bearing Replacement

UPDATE:

I replaced the rear bearings on my '08 at 15k, mostly because of my experience with my '03 and the 3 bearing changes I went through with that bike.

I decided this week to replace them again, these have 25k on them and when I took them off they were perfect. I couldn't tell any difference between them and new ones out of the package.

So, you still want to check them every tire change but it appears it's not the weak point I felt it was on my previous ST.
 
While I had nothing better to do after my ride today I got out a set of the replacement 69052rs bearings from the cabinet. These are the failure prone ones in the flange, I wanted to see how much grease they came with so I poped out the seals on both sides, not much grease in there I must say, so I added a little grizzly clutch grease to both sides of both bearings, don't know if it will make a difference or not, but its worth a try.
 
I'm prob going to order the roller bearing from CBR soon, that way next time my rear tire is off, it's going in.
 
I'm taking a good look at mine in the next couple of weeks. Bike has done 44,000 miles and I check the bearings by feels each time the wheel is out. Did the fronts at 36,000 and they were actually OK. Although I had all the bearings I didn't feel anything that warranted a change on the rear. This post has been useful from that point of view. I'm changing them no matter what as soon as I get the wheel out for a new tyre. Some of those photos look really scary !
Reason for the post though. I thought you might like this as an idea for tapping the new bearings back into place. See attached photo.

bearingtool.jpg

Take the old discarded bearing.
Add a narrow cold chisel and apply liberally to the ball race.
Use chisel, pliers, screwdriver at will to extract balls and race from bearings.
Clean outer race.
Grind out a small section of the outer race.
Grind out a small screwdriver recess on opposite edge.

The resulting 'tool' has exactly the right dimensions to tap home a new bearing, without any risk of the tool becoming locked in place. Keep tapping until the familiar 'I am seated' ring is heard.

Use with the screwdriver slot facing the new bearing, just in case you need to pry it out. In my case, the slot proved to be unnecessary, the tool just pops out once the new bearing has seated correctly.

I think the inner of the discarded flange bearings may be useful for seating the new flange bearings, but it sounds as though they pop on easily without.
 
I didn't freeze my bearings before install... just cleaned the flange bearing area well, lightly greased the outer surface of bearings , used the old bearing to slowly tap the new one in place...took my time and had no problem.

But, the correct tools aways make it easier!
 
Ok - did mine. All of the bearings felt OK, except the tiniest bit of roughness on the 6204 wheel bearing on the brake side of the wheel. So probably the right time to change them then. 44,500 mile. Mellow's pictures were very useful. I froze all the bearings initially, but after a hiccup and had to re-do the 6204, this went in at normal tempearture. I couldn't tell the difference. I made the mistake of freezing the flange bearings before tapping in the collar. Too tight. I had to let them thaw out a bit !
 
Hello bearing experts,
I'm looking for a little clarification please. Mellow's article appears as a replacement of the Bearings (6905RS) in the FINAL DRIVEN FLANGE. I see there are two other bearings that seem to be in the wheel, identified individually, in the 2003 edition of the ST1300 manual, as 6204UU and 20x47x20.6
Are these last two bearings actually same size or different?
Do these need replacing too or is it just the flange bearings that breakdown?
Alternatively--when you use your finger to spin/feel the bearing and it's "gravely", what are you actually feeling; the flange bearings or the wheel bearings?
In the manual, there were special tools required for the wheel bearings, as were also mentioned in another post here: bearing puller, driver attachment/pilot tool, etc. The wheel bearing job looks more difficult, in the manual, than the flange bearing replacement. Are these special tools really required?

Thanks guys.

ADDENDUM: the two wheel bearings are different.
Research has produced an apparent industry part number for the wheel bearing identified in the manual as, 20x47x20.6 as 5204 - Angular Contact Bearing
The wheel bearing in the manual identified as 6204 has a measurement of 20x47x14, as per vxb.com.
 

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Thanks jfheath! --your last comments about the possible 5204 part number, stopped me dead in my tracks. Also, I am not familiar with all of the mechanical vernacular so I am somewhat lost in your technical comments. Alternatively, I thought someone somewhere mentioned a "kit", containing all four bearings but unfortunately, I don't have a source or part number.
----
My story as it relates to this thread and one more question.
Last time I had my wheel off (brakes), I noticed a slight “gravely” feel while spinning a bearing with my finger. Unfortunately, I cannot remember which side [embarrassment] :eek:: I’m guessing the slight roughness was with the flange bearing(s)--not sure. Buying all four bearings is somewhat expensive for me, it appears that the wheel bearings are way more expensive than the flange bearings. Anyway, I need to replace my rear tire sooner, rather than later. When I take the real wheel off, with the help of my friend, Sennister, I will then know which bearing it is but I won't have a new bearing to replace it with. Rather than taking the shot gun-approach and buying all four bearings, I would consider replacing just the tire now and do the bearing(s) on my next rear tire replacement. My question is, once the slight "gravely", "notched", "roughness", whatever, has been detected by the human finger, how long can this condition exist before the riding experience is adversely affected? In short, can I wait and do the bearing(s) later? anyone?

Thanks
 
BlueSTeed said:
My question is, once the slight "gravely", "notched", "roughness", whatever, has been detected by the human finger, how long can this condition exist before the riding experience is adversely affected? In short, can I wait and do the bearing(s) later? anyone?
Click to expand...

There's no way of knowing that... The bearings that have typically had issues are the flange bearings, the good thing is they are easy to change out compared to the others. The best thing you can do is just check them each tire change and replace them if you feel anything out of the ordinary.

Sometimes, you feel the distance collars touching/each other and it feels bad but really isn't, much better to take the flange off and feel those bearings that way without other parts touching them. Then, you'll know what shape you're in.

If the other bearings feel fine, I wouldn't worry about them. Some here change the flange bearings only after every other tire change and some have never changed them. There is no schedule of when they'll go bad, just checking them is all you can do.
 
Mellow,
Some sound advice--thanks!

jfheath--thanks for your detailed response!
I would like to clarify a small portion of it however.
To my earlier question of
--when you use your finger to spin/feel the bearing and it's "gravely", what are you actually feeling; the flange bearings or the wheel bearings?
Click to expand...
You wrote:
My guess is its the wheel bearing on the right hand side and the flange bearing on the left (brake) side. You can only really feel the left wheel bearing once the final driven flange has been removed from the wheel,...
Click to expand...
I'm trying to get this straight for myself and maybe for others, so thanks for allowing some additional persistence here. It is my understanding that the FINAL DRIVEN FLANGE is on the right (final drive) side, and not the left or brake side. Would you examine this attached pic and see if we can agree on that? Thanks again for your responses.
 

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