- Joined
- Feb 11, 2006
- Messages
- 8,044
- Location
- Jacksonville
- Bike
- GL1800 R1200RT NC700
- 2025 Miles
- 006727
Is the mating surface of the lower tank to the tank access port still flat and in good shape? The rubber gasket should seal minor inperfections.
v8-7
Site Supporter
Yes, i had this problem . It was my own fault , as I pinched the wires between the flanges and it bent the flange on the lower tank quite easily .
I "fixed" it by using a bead of Permatex #2 ( non hardening form-a-gasket ).
Not the best way to fix it and i had purchased a replacement lower tank but never got around to putting it on the bike.
The bike got totaled some 10K miles later so I can't say how the durability would have been long term..
I "fixed" it by using a bead of Permatex #2 ( non hardening form-a-gasket ).
Not the best way to fix it and i had purchased a replacement lower tank but never got around to putting it on the bike.
The bike got totaled some 10K miles later so I can't say how the durability would have been long term..
Thanks, I will take a look at the lower tank. I appreciate your help!!
Thanks guys I think you solved it!!.
The top lip of the lower fuel tank was slightly bent downward in one spot. I very gently bent it back up using a small Crescent wrench and a machinist square then put the sub assembly back in with the new gasket. I loaded a gallon of gas into the upper tank and everything looks dry! I will keep a gallon in overnight and check for leaks in the morning. If there is any seepage I will use a small amount of Permatex 2 but I am keeping my fingers crossed.
I am not sure how I bent the lip, but I put the assembly in and took it out 4 or 5 times and could have easily caught a wire or something between the gasket and the lid.
By the way for future guys, the depressions was very slight and I could not see it...I had to feel for it with my fingers.
Just an FYI for the thread. I bought the cheapest ebay kit I could find with the "Custom Parts High Quality" brand CSTP-382 HFP-382 pump in the kit. Nothing was used but the pump so it all worked great. I'd link the ebay seller but the item I bought for $18.78 is now shown as $118.78??? So if you want just buy the cheapest CSTP-382 HFP-382 pump you can find and reuse the stock parts.
My bike had 196,800 miles when the pump was replaced. My symptoms where like everyone else, lots of surging when riding the bike. The last ride was a ride home from a trip, 550 miles of the surging but it made it home.
My bike had 196,800 miles when the pump was replaced. My symptoms where like everyone else, lots of surging when riding the bike. The last ride was a ride home from a trip, 550 miles of the surging but it made it home.
just an update, the pump has worked fine for over 3,000 miles. If you need a spare the ebay site is back at $18.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161913159070
Edit, 9-29-18 added a current link some are using.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Pump-...013/162545660158?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144
Condition:New
Brand:Keshen
Bundled Items:Gasket, Harness, Hose, Hose Clamp(s), Strainer
Manufacturer Part Number:KS02B
Warranty:Yes
Flow:140-160 Liters per Hour
UPC:683422225666
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161913159070
Edit, 9-29-18 added a current link some are using.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Pump-...013/162545660158?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144
Condition:New
Brand:Keshen
Bundled Items:Gasket, Harness, Hose, Hose Clamp(s), Strainer
Manufacturer Part Number:KS02B
Warranty:Yes
Flow:140-160 Liters per Hour
UPC:683422225666
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FYI - Here is a link to a Rock Auto search for the pumps they offer for a 2000 Honda Accord 2.3L : LINK
Seal All works great on the fuel tank / fuel pump assembly gasket. On my ST1100, several times I cleaned up the old gasket and smeared a little Seal All on the bottom of the old gasket and I haven't had a problem with the old gasket leaking.
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Excellent post - well done and thanks Sennister!
Pete
Pete
Thanks This really helps
thekaz
haz gone feral
THANKS to everyone who posted this kinda info ...... knowing the pump numbers made my escape from Fernley NV to be just a simple trip to the NAPA store 
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2007
- Messages
- 1,323
- Age
- 62
- Location
- Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
- Bike
- 1&2&3-2005 ST1300ABS
Exactly the same symptom I'm having when I get down to 2 bars and it starts cutting out. Happened twice.
Just ordered a pump:
www.highflowfuel.com has the correct pump for our ST1300 for $69.
skipcurt
Skip
Not really having any issues with this at the moment but I'm considering doing this as precautionary since I've had some work done this year and I'm in the high 90k mileage. Just looking to get some blessings on the parts and their numbers. Looking to do in 2-3 weeks as I'll be heading out to NNESToc on Monday.
Fuel Pump
Gasket
Filter
Sealing Washer
Fuel Pump
Gasket
Filter
Sealing Washer
st1300doug
Well my second pump went out last Friday. This one was a lot different. It chugged as in "quit running" for 1/10 of a second twice as I rode down the Interstate at 75 gps indicated. I thought hmmm as it is the first problem I've had with the bike in a LONG time. And then 2 miles later I came up on a Semi and as usual I gave it a little gas to get around him and be done. Well it didn't go, It chugged hard if I gave it the gas at all and then died out but luckily I was just at an exit. So instead of passing I went right and got off the I-10 to check things out.
My first pump failure as quoted above got my bike to 196,800 miles and I remember it well that it bucked constantly for 550 miles home without me stopping along the road and I made it very roughly running home. Not so lucky this time. When I pulled off the I/S that was it. It died and would not restart when warm. I had just filled the tank 60 miles back so it had "cool fuel" but nope not gonna run. The second pump made it too 362,178 miles. 165,378 miles on (cheap) pump #2.
Black Pearl got it's third ride on a trailer back 60 miles home (thanks son in law) unloaded into the garage. The next day I replace the fuel pump with the quoted above $18 ebay fuel pump. I have 1181 miles on this cheap cheap pump and it's running as good as new. And I ordered another cheap spare to carry in the trunk for long trips. This one is for a Yamaha R1 so it should be enough PSI for my lowly ST1300. The old pump started the bike only twice after the first "time of death" and I tried it sitting on top of the bottom tank while it was all still hooked up. It sounded like sand being ground up inside the pump!
Yamaha EFI Fuel Pump R1 R6 Road Star YZF750R YZF650 FZ 1994-2015 5PW-13907-02-00 | eBay
Design: Intank EFI Fuel Pump.
www.ebay.com
FYI, I only replace the pump. No other parts. Still the original filter and hoses. The pump replace is as simple as unplug the old and plug in the new. Same connections all around.
WARNING be careful around the sheetmetal edge of the lower tank when you pull the old pump assembly out. That edge is about as thin as a tin can edge and I'm thinking the seal comes from the super thick rubber gasket pushing the thin edge down and kind of into the rubber gasket. I stupidly got a small section of wire under the gasket and had a bad fuel leak when I filled the tank. I drained it back down, pulled the assembly and saw the bent tank tin edge. I straighten the tank tin edge back and gave it a bit more "up" after seeing the gasket design. No leaks now and still on the Honda factory gasket there too.
The new part has came already and this $21.49 delivered pump looks the same as the old. Pics of old (not Honda) and new R1 ebay pump.
Big_Jim59
Site Supporter
Having read through the posts here I just wanted to say that my pump was in bad shape when I pulled it out. It had been sitting, unused, in bad gas for over 4 years. The wires fell off the connector at the pump. The low fuel sending unit was eaten away. I am waiting on parts to reassemble the unit.
Handy article for folks!Tonight I replaced my fuel filter and while I was in there I tossed in a new fuel pump. The bike has 94000 miles and I had some bad fuel a while back and have been wanting to replace the filter. A member here mentioned another fuel pump option rather than the entire assembly option that Honda has for $400. The fuel pump motor in the ST1300 is a common automotive pump. I would post the link to ebay but it will be gone soon and just be a dead link the model number listed is:
HFP-382
A Google search of that will result in several options. The kit I bought off ebay was $68. Here is an example of the kit. (note over 400 vehicles use this pump)
High Flow Pump
The one problem with this option is the small sock that attaches to the pump pickup has to be reused. Honda doesn't sell this part. While I was in there I also replaced the Fuel Filter (16900-MBG-013); Filter, Fuel Return (16714-MBG-000) and when the assembly is removed you should replace the gasket (17574-MN5-000) which seals the fuel pump assembly. There are also some crush washers on the banjo fitting that could be replaced if you are ordering parts anyhow. I don't have the part number handy.
There is already an article on fuel filter replacement so I will focus this on the fuel pump. It is pretty much the same process so I would recommend looking at both articles. Since the tools needed and the process for the removal of the assembly is documented there I will skip that part of the job. It is pretty straight forward.
Ok I will start by saying that the towel is clean. Just stained. You do want a clean surface to work on.
Here is the assembly removed.
At the bottom of the assembly is a rubber boot that holds the Fuel Return Line Filter. This material is a stainless steel wool looking material. I have seen stuff for cleaning dishes that looks very much like this. I probably didn't need to replace it but it was cheap and I was ordering stuff anyhow.
Here is a comparison of the old and the new. The pic didn't turn our that well.
Once removed you can see the sock on the intake of the fuel pump.
To remove the pump there is a single screw that holds a band around the pump. There is also a ground wire attached to this screw. Remove it and then straps will bend back. Also disconnect the power lead from the pump.
Since I was replacing the filter and the pump I found it easier to remove them together and disconnect them separate from the assembly.
Swapping the part was as simple as disconnecting hoses and reconnecting them. The sock is held in place by a friction washer. I popped off the old one and used the new one that came with the packaging. There wasn't an easy way to get a shot of that but it is pretty simple. As long as you have the pump and possibly the filter out of the way, now would be a good time to replace the gasket. You can do it at the end but it is easier to do it now at this point with the pump and possibly the filter out of the way.
When reassembling make sure the return filter is where the return line dumps fuel back into the tank. Basically between that and the sock that has to get reused as seen here.
Button the rubber boot back up and you are done reassembling the pump assembly.
Here are some shots showing the old pump and the new pump side by side.
New pump on top
New pump on the Right. This shot is the intake of the pumps. The post in the middle are there for the friction washer to retain the pre-filter sock.
New pump on the Right. This shot shows the output and the connector for the power.
When I opened up the rubber boot on my pump this is the debris that was located on the pre-filter sock.
Since it may come up, there isn't a real reason I am replacing the pump. I am having some issues with stalling where I wanted to replace the filter. At $68 I figured I might as well throw a new pump in as I have close to 100K miles on this pump. My stalling issue is more likely related to the fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator or vac leak which I will address if the filter doesn't resolve my stalling issue. The new pump comes with a new pre-filter sock but it will not fit in our application. Blowing on the old filter and comparing it to the new one showed that it was pretty restricted. The entire process was a little over an hour.
Hope this option helps someone out there if there is a fuel pump issue.
My question is, did the filter change sort the stalling problem?
You have listed a sealing washer here, what is this part, is it the copper crush washer/s at the tank feed outlet?
Just an FYI, over 50,000 miles on cheap ebay pump number 3 and no fuel pressure problems. See my post number 75 for more info.
Thanks for the great writhe-up Senister.
2 years later but I now have an fuel pump that is not working.
My question is: When you took the top off the bottom tank is gasoline flow out everywhere?
If so, how did you handle it.
Thanks
2 years later but I now have an fuel pump that is not working.
My question is: When you took the top off the bottom tank is gasoline flow out everywhere?
If so, how did you handle it.
Thanks
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
If the fuel gauge is below two bars there is no gas left in the upper tank, so you can safely open up the lower tank.
Before you start drain both tanks to where there is almost no gas left in the lower tank. Follow the below link to see how to do this.
Draining the Lower Tank