Article [13] ST1300 - Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement

The person I learned about doing this from (STGolfer) did lay his bike down on the left side on a mattress but I did the job with the bike on the sidestand and that worked OK too.

As I have said - it isn't a fun job, but put some music on, makes sure your trouble light is all charged up, get everything ready, and it isn't too bad.

Pete
 
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That's what I need in the garage...music :doh1:
I'm getting pretty quick at putting these darn things in, as much as I hate doing them :well1:
I've done 3 of them since the beginning of the year.
Why can't folks flush and bleed their damn clutch systems out? :nuts:
I've heard all the excuses....."the systems never been opened so there can't be any air in there right?"
"brake fluid in motorcycles last forever, and they don't need to be bled"
"I don't know where my clutch fluid went, every time I fill up the master cylinder, its gone within a week" :censored:
I've got special tools just for this job, and can remove the old one fairly quickly now....heck, I can even install the new one fairly quickly now...
Its just the several hours standing on your head, scraping the old gasket off, at odd angles, that wears me out :rofl1:
But, I'll keep doing them, because folks need them....
I've got another one coming up in a week or two (waiting for parts).
The joys of being the ST-Whisperer
:WCP1:
 
Igofar said:
That's what I need in the garage...music :doh1:
I'm getting pretty quick at putting these darn things in, as much as I hate doing them :well1:
<SNIP>
:WCP1:
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Ummm... you got a phone, right?
Spotify, iHeart Radio, Pandora, Amazon Prime Music, YouTube Music are but a few.
Back to the topic... did someone provide the part numbers for Honda's "special tools" back in these 12 pages somewhere? I recall @MaxPete paid about 90 bucks for them those years back. I might wanna order those at some point, just becuz. Likely time to read all this again, as it's been a few months since I did. :)
 
MaxPete said:
Oh come on Curt - get down there and just get at it.

The job will take you a morning, including coffee and pee-pee breaks and it will cost you about $130 CDN - and then you'll be good to go for another .....15 years?

As I have said, it isn't fun, but it is better than paying some clown at a stealership $1500-2000 clams to wreck your bike using the totally stupid Honda-method of repair:

1) drain clutch hydraulic system (20 minutes - cost = $40);
2) remove engine from frame (5 hours - cost = $750);
3) remove three 6mm bolts holding clutch slave cylinder to transmission case (1 minute - cost = $3);
4) replace clutch slave cylinder and re-torque securing bolts (4 minutes - cost = $9);
5) re-installed engine into frame (5 hours - cost = $750);
6) bleed clutch hydraulic system (30 minutes - cost = $750).

Its all fine except for Steps 2) and 5)

....are you kidding me?

Just don't forget the Vaseline - it really is useful for sticking all those danged copper crush washers in place.

Pete
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Am I missing something or does a lot of cowling and fairing need to be removed to access the clutch bleeder valve?
 
Agreed - and I can’t check because my ST1300 is now sold, but I thought you could bleed the clutch and leave the black belly in place (but my memory may be failing me).

I do know for sure that the only piece of fairing that needs to come off to R&R the clutch slave cylinder is the black belly.
 
Kevcules said:
No, just the lower black fairing on the left side.

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MaxPete said:
Agreed - and I can’t check because my ST1300 is now sold, but I thought you could bleed the clutch and leave the black belly in place (but my memory may be failing me).

I do know for sure that the only piece of fairing that needs to come off to R&R the clutch slave cylinder is the black belly.
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thanks.. I got ahead of myself and didn’t look close enough. I do have access to the bleed point, so all is well.
thanks for all the help
 
ST9 said:
This guy did it with absolute minimum hassle

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OK - well, not to take away from the efforts of others but quite honestly, there is nothing new here.

I also didn’t remove the speed sensor and the method shown in the video is how I did the banjo bolt - as described in the article. What they did miss were some of tips I contributed on his w to align the two hose fittings and three crush washers on that danged banjo bolt.

Anyhow - good for the person posting that video that they provided more useful information.

Pete
 
Without out doubt I wouldn't have even attempted without your article. I just removed mine with a Short spanner and ratchet. I take that "minimum hassle" all back. I don't want to even think about that banjo bolt for the back together again!
 
There ya go.

....and as I always tell folks doing this repair: don’t forget the Vaseline for sticking the three crush washers, two hoses and banjo bolt together. With that bit of stick-um, this task cannot be accomplished without the use of “extended vocabulary”.

DAMHIK.
 
Many, many thanks to MaxPete for the detailed description. It took me about two hours as well, although I had access to a bike lift which made everything much easier. I did not buy a new cylinder, only replaced the seals using the Tourmax Kit for both master and slaves. Spent €20 for the slave kit.

BTW, I do not recommend to remove the speed sensor, unless you're also planning on doing an oil change at the same time.
 
Another big thankyou from me. Just changed the slave cylinder, no apparent fluid loss but lost all resistance at lever when hot. Did the usual bleed etc and lever felt normal once cooled off. Problem returned when engine hot. Only when I removed the unit could I see the problem. The cylinder was a mess of encrusted old fluid from I suspect a very slight leak, this had blocked the drain hole and so there was no signs of a leak. I don't do many miles and have changed the fluid every two years. I suspect it never leaked enough between changes to cause a level problem but eventually gave up. I have no idea why the workshop manual requires engine removal, that in its self is enough to put people off doing it themselves. Once again thanks for taking the time to take great pictures and share your knowledge, Ed:thumb:
 
Thanks for the kind words Ed - glad you were able to get the job done.

I completely agree with your assessment of the “Honda-approved” method - totally silly and unnecessarily expensive, complex, risky and ill advised. I cannot imagine why a fine engineering firm like Honda would make such a stupid recommendation.
Pete
 
Pete, me neither, considering the expense of the genuine manual I would have expected more accurate information, I would like to think the engineers left just enough room to remove the cylinder instead of it just being good fortune that it can be removed in situe. Guess we will never know.
Ed:thumb:
 
My clutch just started acting like you describe and when I looked on here for possible causes I found this article. Thanks @MaxPete for the great write up and letting me believe I can do this without much hassle!
I'm starting to gather up the parts to do this now so hopefully I'll not be off the road for too long.
 
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