Article [13] ST1300 - Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement

And yes a torque wrench will work on the banjo fitting if you know how to think outside the box.
For the ST banjo fitting a 15 inch flex head ratcheting wrench, an Allen socket in the user end, then knowing how to calculate the correct formula:rofl1:
 

Attachments

  • 41C7311D-D498-43F7-8373-16F1F9B9BF3C.jpeg
    41C7311D-D498-43F7-8373-16F1F9B9BF3C.jpeg
    200.9 KB · Views: 56
Daaaaammn!
A Norton manual!
I have the manual, but ain't got no Norton no more. Servicing the bike constantly was more than my lame 20-year-old skills could deal with.
I'm a sad kind of excuse for a klutz mechanic today, but was even more pitiful back 40 years ago.
 
All the heartburn over that gasket - and if you stare at it - the danged thing doesn't even seal anything.

The weep-hole runs right past it. The gasket is essentially a little soft spacer for the CSC mounting screws.

Anyhow - glad it worked out for you - and #Igofar is definitely the man for working on STs.

Pete
 
Last edited:
Another trick to removing the gasket is what you use.
Wire brushes, razor blades, exacto knives dig into the gasket, braking it apart in many places, making it almost impossible to remove.
I have found the safest and easiest method for
me is to use a 3/4 inch wide wood chisel.
It’s thick so it does not flex and damage the aluminum housing, and the trick is where to start…
I come straight up from the bottom, on the right side of the housing, half of the chisel rests flat against the flat surface of the rear cover, keeping it true, and half pushes up the right side of the gasket, causing it to tilt, without breaking it, so your spray and oil can get behind it to loosen it up.
When using a thick/strong chisel, the gasket usually comes completely off the three pushes etc.
Patience is your friend here.

Yeah, that was ultimately what I ended up using but even that had a difficult time with this gasket. I was really hoping not to nick the housing and this time I got lucky. :) The gasket simply would NOT lift off in any place, there was nothing that popped off. Ah well, it's done, hopefully never again. oops.......
 
Well just a thanks to all. Getting parts in order for new clutch and slave. Hope I don't need more than basic clutch parts she slips some at full throttle and the slave is leaking. She has 68000 miles, I am 3rd owner.
 
Hi Bill:
The major symptoms of a leaking clutch slave cylinder are all related to the clutch not being fully disengaged even if the hand level is pulled all the way in:
  • it is difficult to disengage the clutch and find neutral when the engine is running
  • it is difficult to shift gears
  • there is a bigger than usual “clunk” when going from neutral into first gear when stopped (even for a Honda... ;))
  • the bike wants to creep forward in first gear when the clutch lever is held in
  • the fluid level in the master cylinder drops but there is NO obvious external leak….at least not at first
I really hate to say it, but having the clutch slip would not generally be associated with a leaking clutch slave cylinder.

Keep us all posted and we’ll help in any way we can.

Pete
 
Last edited:
- master cylinder fluid level dropping but NO external leak….at least now at first

Pete


Thanks Pete.

This symptom could be on the very top of the list of things to watch for.

Was lucky to catch my leaky slave (with Larry's help!) after checking the level when the lever started engaging later in the travel and none of the later symptoms had appeared yet.

The confusing part was that the rubber diaphragm was sucked-in in such a way that the level was still showing good in the sight glass. The level drop only became obvious after removing the cover.
 
I just wanted to drop in and thank everyone for their knowledge, tips and tricks for this Job. The amount of support and detailed instructions made this a 2 hour job.

I wanted to pass along some things and tools to make this job a little easier. Most have already been mentioned in the thread but wanted to just give my two cents.

* I used layout fluid to mark the spline face of the shifter linkage. Then i scored it with a scribe. Made for easy reinstallation of the linkage.
* Used the combination of a stubby 1/4in drive 8mm ratchet and a swivel head ratchet combination wrench to remove the slave bolts. When the bolts got to the point where the ratchet portion of the wrench wouldn't activate I used some long needle nose pliers to grab the side of the socket to put pressure on to engage the ratchet.
* The single bolt on the left side of the slave can be accessed and best seen from the left side of the bike. This is not new information but you are running blind if you try and get at it from the right side.
* TOOLS, TOOLS, TOOLS. You don't need all the tools, just the right ones.
Fine tooth ratchets are clutch for this job. I purchased 8mm, 10mm, and 12mm swivel head ratchet combo wrenches in 72 teeth. Not much room to work on banjo so you will need something that needs little movement to engage.
* Long needle nose pliers of the straight and bent variety. I used these to manipulate the banjo bolt into place to start the re-threading process. You cant get your hands in there to work so these are your fingers. Get the longest ones you can. Harbor Freight ones work great.
* I got lucky and my gasket looked great so I reused it.
* I bought a new slave cylinder vs rebuilding. The cost was around $75 for the new and delivered in about a week from a large online parts dealer.

After getting everything back together I did the vacuum bleed and then tested with a ride.

Everything seems to work great.

Again, I wanted to extend all the thanks to those that have contributed to this thread and especially OP for the detailed write up.

Happy Riding!!
 
Last edited:
Hi All,

Thanks to everyone for the tips.

I completed my replacement today. Much like everyone else….the most tedious thing was removing the old gasket. I used an exacto knife with a flat front blade very slowly and carefully, followed up with a brass wire brush. I used a small quarter inch ratchet on the three 8mm bolts and a 12mm flex ratchet wrench for the banjo bolt. I went at the banjo bolt from the right side through the frame. Plenty of access with a standard length flex ratchet wrench. The Vaseline trick for the washer stack worked great. I did remove the oil filter but did not remove the speed sensor or the center stand. I’ve read comments about hand size…..I have to order special gloves because no stores carry 4X gloves. I was able to remove and replace all associated hardware with the two tools mentioned above.

It is really not that bad of a job. I hope I don’t have to do it again, but I dreaded it more than I should have. It is a slow and meticulous job, but not bad if you go in knowing that.

Well, that’s about it!!

Ray
 
Maybe a survey is needed to find out how many have their Clutch Slave? How many referred to this thread to do it! ;)
 
It would be interesting to know and with the retail price of the repair (around here in SW Ontario) running at about $1800-2000 - if there were 20-25 ST-Owners who have done the repair, that would be $40-50K worth of work - SAVED - even if you put the cost of parts at $100.

Hmmmmmm…..
 
I only count ten CSCs in the bucket.
That weekend must have been when you got out of the hospital after surgery, and were still moving with limited capacity.
 
I only count ten CSCs in the bucket.
That weekend must have been when you got out of the hospital after surgery, and were still moving with limited capacity.
Actually if you look again, it was a pie pan not a bucket, and there are only SEVEN :rofl1:
 
I’ll play, this was one weekend!
:rofl1:
I only count ten CSCs in the bucket.
That weekend must have been when you got out of the hospital after surgery, and were still moving with limited capacity.
Actually if you look again, it was a pie pan not a bucket, and there are only SEVEN :rofl1:
Aw, c'mon Larry... I was giving you the benefit of the doubt.


....I will only point out that helping an acknowledged expert increase his score was not my purpose in writing the article.

The idea was to help the rest of us mere mortals, including folks who can't bring their bikes to the SW-USA for a white courtesy phone repair - to do this job themselves and save a bucket-load of cash in the process.

Anyhow, it seems to have accomplished that goal so I'm happy all around.

Pete
 
Back
Top Bottom