Article [13] ST1300 - Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement

Oh come on Curt - get down there and just get at it.

The job will take you a morning, including coffee and pee-pee breaks and it will cost you about $130 CDN - and then you'll be good to go for another .....15 years?

As I have said, it isn't fun, but it is better than paying some clown at a stealership $1500-2000 clams to wreck your bike using the totally stupid Honda-method of repair:

1) drain clutch hydraulic system (20 minutes - cost = $40);
2) remove engine from frame (5 hours - cost = $750);
3) remove three 6mm bolts holding clutch slave cylinder to transmission case (1 minute - cost = $3);
4) replace clutch slave cylinder and re-torque securing bolts (4 minutes - cost = $9);
5) re-installed engine into frame (5 hours - cost = $750);
6) bleed clutch hydraulic system (30 minutes - cost = $750).

Its all fine except for Steps 2) and 5)

....are you kidding me?

Just don't forget the Vaseline - it really is useful for sticking all those danged copper crush washers in place.

Pete
 
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Just a thought here (and I have not read all 12 pages recently, but did in the last few months) -- would it be an advantage to remove the rear wheel, hoist the rear end and put it on jackstands? Maybe find some similar-or-slightly-smaller diameter pipe to go through the swingarm in place of the axle?
Seems it would give you a small number of inches more room underneath as you work.
Getting it high enough for jackstands, on a motorcycle-style jack, or maybe a car jack lifting the pipe in the middle of the swingarm, might be best done with a stout helper or two, at least if they don't each have a bad back...
In my mind I see the pipe sticking out each end of the swingarm by 4 - 6 inches, to safely lie in the grooves of the two jackstands on either side. With someone standing by to balance the bike as it goes up, and to kick the stands in place beneath the axle-pipe.
In theory, practice and theory should work the same, but in practice sometimes they're different.
 
Sadlsor said:
Just a thought here (and I have not read all 12 pages recently, but did in the last few months) -- would it be an advantage to remove the rear wheel, hoist the rear end and put it on jackstands? Maybe find some similar-or-slightly-smaller diameter pipe to go through the swingarm in place of the axle?
Seems it would give you a small number of inches more room underneath as you work.
Getting it high enough for jackstands, on a motorcycle-style jack, or maybe a car jack lifting the pipe in the middle of the swingarm, might be best done with a stout helper or two, at least if they don't each have a bad back...
In my mind I see the pipe sticking out each end of the swingarm by 4 - 6 inches, to safely lie in the grooves of the two jackstands on either side. With someone standing by to balance the bike as it goes up, and to kick the stands in place beneath the axle-pipe.
In theory, practice and theory should work the same, but in practice sometimes they're different.
Click to expand...

I'm not certain @Sadlsor - but the CSC is actually in front of the swing-arm pivots on the backside of the engine case and so the rear wheel isn't really much of an obstacle as far as I can recall. The access problem is caused mainly by the swing arm itself - and removing it would be a major task.

On the other hand, removing the rear wheel might help but certainly, the thought of lifting an ST1300 in that manner is.....a bit scary, in my view.

Cheers,

Pete
 
It would not be a safe task for a solo operator, for sure.
I haven't done this, but if lying the bike on its side is a viable option, this may be another.
Either way, we could just say I was typing out loud. But I certainly agree this would be best thought out carefully, and attempted with sufficient strong individuals.
 
The person I learned about doing this from (STGolfer) did lay his bike down on the left side on a mattress but I did the job with the bike on the sidestand and that worked OK too.

As I have said - it isn't a fun job, but put some music on, makes sure your trouble light is all charged up, get everything ready, and it isn't too bad.

Pete
 
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That's what I need in the garage...music :doh1:
I'm getting pretty quick at putting these darn things in, as much as I hate doing them :well1:
I've done 3 of them since the beginning of the year.
Why can't folks flush and bleed their damn clutch systems out? :nuts:
I've heard all the excuses....."the systems never been opened so there can't be any air in there right?"
"brake fluid in motorcycles last forever, and they don't need to be bled"
"I don't know where my clutch fluid went, every time I fill up the master cylinder, its gone within a week" :censored:
I've got special tools just for this job, and can remove the old one fairly quickly now....heck, I can even install the new one fairly quickly now...
Its just the several hours standing on your head, scraping the old gasket off, at odd angles, that wears me out :rofl1:
But, I'll keep doing them, because folks need them....
I've got another one coming up in a week or two (waiting for parts).
The joys of being the ST-Whisperer
:WCP1:
 
Igofar said:
That's what I need in the garage...music :doh1:
I'm getting pretty quick at putting these darn things in, as much as I hate doing them :well1:
<SNIP>
:WCP1:
Click to expand...
Ummm... you got a phone, right?
Spotify, iHeart Radio, Pandora, Amazon Prime Music, YouTube Music are but a few.
Back to the topic... did someone provide the part numbers for Honda's "special tools" back in these 12 pages somewhere? I recall @MaxPete paid about 90 bucks for them those years back. I might wanna order those at some point, just becuz. Likely time to read all this again, as it's been a few months since I did. :)
 
MaxPete said:
Oh come on Curt - get down there and just get at it.

The job will take you a morning, including coffee and pee-pee breaks and it will cost you about $130 CDN - and then you'll be good to go for another .....15 years?

As I have said, it isn't fun, but it is better than paying some clown at a stealership $1500-2000 clams to wreck your bike using the totally stupid Honda-method of repair:

1) drain clutch hydraulic system (20 minutes - cost = $40);
2) remove engine from frame (5 hours - cost = $750);
3) remove three 6mm bolts holding clutch slave cylinder to transmission case (1 minute - cost = $3);
4) replace clutch slave cylinder and re-torque securing bolts (4 minutes - cost = $9);
5) re-installed engine into frame (5 hours - cost = $750);
6) bleed clutch hydraulic system (30 minutes - cost = $750).

Its all fine except for Steps 2) and 5)

....are you kidding me?

Just don't forget the Vaseline - it really is useful for sticking all those danged copper crush washers in place.

Pete
Click to expand...
Am I missing something or does a lot of cowling and fairing need to be removed to access the clutch bleeder valve?
 
Agreed - and I can’t check because my ST1300 is now sold, but I thought you could bleed the clutch and leave the black belly in place (but my memory may be failing me).

I do know for sure that the only piece of fairing that needs to come off to R&R the clutch slave cylinder is the black belly.
 
Kevcules said:
No, just the lower black fairing on the left side.

Click to expand...
MaxPete said:
Agreed - and I can’t check because my ST1300 is now sold, but I thought you could bleed the clutch and leave the black belly in place (but my memory may be failing me).

I do know for sure that the only piece of fairing that needs to come off to R&R the clutch slave cylinder is the black belly.
Click to expand...
thanks.. I got ahead of myself and didn’t look close enough. I do have access to the bleed point, so all is well.
thanks for all the help
 
ST9 said:
This guy did it with absolute minimum hassle

Click to expand...

OK - well, not to take away from the efforts of others but quite honestly, there is nothing new here.

I also didn’t remove the speed sensor and the method shown in the video is how I did the banjo bolt - as described in the article. What they did miss were some of tips I contributed on his w to align the two hose fittings and three crush washers on that danged banjo bolt.

Anyhow - good for the person posting that video that they provided more useful information.

Pete
 
Without out doubt I wouldn't have even attempted without your article. I just removed mine with a Short spanner and ratchet. I take that "minimum hassle" all back. I don't want to even think about that banjo bolt for the back together again!
 
There ya go.

....and as I always tell folks doing this repair: don’t forget the Vaseline for sticking the three crush washers, two hoses and banjo bolt together. With that bit of stick-um, this task cannot be accomplished without the use of “extended vocabulary”.

DAMHIK.
 
Many, many thanks to MaxPete for the detailed description. It took me about two hours as well, although I had access to a bike lift which made everything much easier. I did not buy a new cylinder, only replaced the seals using the Tourmax Kit for both master and slaves. Spent €20 for the slave kit.

BTW, I do not recommend to remove the speed sensor, unless you're also planning on doing an oil change at the same time.
 
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