Article [13] ST1300 - Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement

You too Mr. Bb -and I sure hope that someone there can lend you a hand.

Kind regards,

Pete

PS - Happy Independence Day on July 4th and Happy Canad Day on July 1st.
 
Pete,
Thank you for your terrific CSC replacement guide. I just finished on my replacement on my 2003 with 41300 miles, installing a new CSC.
I used your guide and it went very well, but I made a couple of minor changes that others may find useful.

In reinstalling the 3 seal new washers in the hydraulic fittings:
1. I thoroughly cleaned the bolt under-head washer seating surface, and on the new CSC, the washer seat surface, then using Gel Super Glue in tiny dabs, I secured 2 washers, one under the bolt head and the other to the top of the CSC bolt seal surface, keeping it centered around the bolt.
2. Before installing the new CSC I inserted the hydraulic banjo bolt through the 2 banjos, inserting the new washer between the 2 banjos. I used 15" long needle nose pliers to insert the washer.
3. I installed the new CSC, in so doing the banjos and bolt rested on top of the CSC. Then carefully centered and threaded the bolt into the top of the CSC a couple of threads. This was not easy to start, and took some time to align and get the threads to engage using 2 fingers. I then used a 15" long ratchet flex head wrench to tighten as you recommended.

Again, Thanks for your great write-up.
Marc
 
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Great input Marc - glad it worked out for you!

Hey Mr. BeedleBug - how are you making out with your CSC problem in Anthem AZ? Has anyone nearby contacted you to help with the fix?

Pete
 
Keep me in the loop guys, I may be able to ride out and do that work for BeedleBug.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
I tore into the 2010 yesterday. I pulled off the Clutch Slave unit off the back of the bike, not for the faint of heart! That thing was a bugger! I removed the tupperware, exhaust and centerstand (it needs some grease anyway). I think the leftside O2 sensor was the hardest thing to get off! I had to spray it with penetrating oil to get it to loosen up! :eek:4:

ClutchSlave-s.jpg

That lift made a difference. I was able to get the bike up high enough, in my shed, to work from the right side of the bike to get to the slave unit. Now putting it all back together... We'll see how that goes after I get the parts (which I still need to order.)

After cleaning up the parts and all, the piston and the body didn't want to play nice together. I guess, if I was to use some emery cloth on them, would help, but I'm thinking of just ordering the complete unit.
 
MaxPete said:
I’d go new Supra - after all that grief getting the danged thing off - why risk having to do it all over again by doing a dodgey rebuild?
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Yeah, me too, so I just ordered three of them. One for the 2010, and one for each of the '04s. After looking at the 10's, I'm sure the '04s are really bad looking! :eek:4:
 
SupraSabre said:
Yeah, me too, so I just ordered three of them. One for the 2010, and one for each of the '04s. After looking at the 10's, I'm sure the '04s are really bad looking! :eek:4:
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Indeed. The one on my 2007 was crap and it only had about 34,000 miles on it. The problem, I think is time and corrosion - not miles.

Mine cost about $75 CDN at my friendly local Honda dealer - mind saying what you paid?

Pete
 
MaxPete said:
Indeed. The one on my 2007 was crap and it only had about 34,000 miles on it. The problem, I think is time and corrosion - not miles.

Mine cost about $75 CDN at my friendly local Honda dealer - mind saying what you paid?

Pete
Click to expand...

They were $56 US each from Partzilla.

The problem I see is that they do not get flushed out properly when you flush out the clutch. The fluid stays in the slave unit during a flush. I don't know how you would get it out with the current design. Even if you squeeze the clutch handle when flushing it, you're not going to get much out of the slave unit! :eek:4:
 
SupraSabre said:
They were $56 US each from Partzilla.

The problem I see is that they do not get flushed out properly when you flush out the clutch. The fluid stays in the slave unit during a flush. I don't know how you would get it out with the current design. Even if you squeeze the clutch handle when flushing it, you're not going to get much out of the slave unit! :eek:4:
Click to expand...

Indeed. I used a vacuum bleeder and it pulled a good deal of crap through the system. In fact this weekend, I worked on my Honda CX500 and one of the tasks was to install a new brake master cylinder and bleed the system. Using the vacuum bleeder we pulled A LOT of old dark fluid through from the hoses and caliper before the system ran clear - but it eventually did and a nice firm lever is the result.

My vacuum bleeder is an inexpensive unit from Princess Automotive - which is very much like Harbour Freight in the US. I think it cost around $60 CDN on sale and has been well worth it.
 
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MaxPete said:
Indeed. I used a vacuum bleeder and it pulled a good deal of crap through the system. In fact this weekend, I worked on my Honda CX500 and one of the tasks was to install a new brake master cylinder and bleed the system. Using the vacuum bleeder we pulled A LOT of old dark fluid through from the hoses and caliper before the system ran clear - but it eventually did and a nice firm lever is the result.

My vacuum bleeder is an inexpensive unit from Princess Automotive - which is very much like Harbour Freight in the US. I think it cost around $60 CDN on sale and has been well worth it.
Click to expand...

I have a couple of the "handpump" vacuum bleeders, but I bought a A/C suction pump that I want to set up as a vacuum bleeder. Maybe that would suck the junk up out of the slave unit! ;)
 
Re: ST1300 Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement

Hi MaxPete, new to the forum and to the ST1300 but looks like I will already benefit from the knowledge base here. I have a weeping Slave cylinder and no pressure on the clutch lever. Refilled the empty master cylinder reservoir and pumped the lever only to have it run out the drain hole on the slave cylinder. You will have saved me hundreds of dollars by the time I finish the repair so thanks for the hard work gathering the info. Hope the new cylinder is still working great. Ride Safe.
 
Howdy Ride52 - glad you find it useful!

Please keep us posted and don’t forget the Vaseline to help with those little crush washers!

My slave cylinder is still working perfectly BTW.

Cheers,

Pete
 
Guess what came in today?

ClutchSlaves-s.jpg

So this weekend I'll get the 2010's in and see if that fixes my slipping clutch...
 
looking like I have my winter maintenance task all ready lined up. I'm current adding fluid to the reservoir w/no leaks yet. I'm just waiting for the sand and salt to fly to take her off the road.

I noticed this was low when I got the bike in April with 22K miles. Now @ 29,000 I'm having to add additional fluid.

Anyone replace the line with braided hose? Length? head angles?
 
nt650hawk said:
looking like I have my winter maintenance task all ready lined up. I'm current adding fluid to the reservoir w/no leaks yet. I'm just waiting for the sand and salt to fly to take her off the road.

I noticed this was low when I got the bike in April with 22K miles. Now @ 29,000 I'm having to add additional fluid.

Anyone replace the line with braided hose? Length? head angles?
Click to expand...

Hi nt650hawk: I certainly haven’t replaced any of the hard lines on the bike with braided - although I suppose it could be done. I suspect though, that it would be quite difficult as the ST has brake and clutch hydraulic lines ALL over the motorcycle and they pass through some very small and cramped areas. Hence, fishing anything like a thick hose through these spots would likely be very difficult.

The other thing is - the leak never seems to be from a hose or hard line. It is invariably the clutch slave cylinder itself that fails and - challenging as it is to access, I’ll bet it is easier than trying to change a hard line in there.

Cheers,

Pete
 
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Looks like we diagnosed this one correctly.
 

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