jfheath
John Heath
Basically, the link would have been to the same place - except I updated the original pdf, so the link in post #1 is to the new version. The quoted link in Dave's post #2 is now out of date, but I cannot change that.
I'll be available tomorrow if you have any questions.Thanks very much (again!), John.
You've confirmed that I have what I need.
Life is hard when you (meaning ME) have a tendency to over-analyze everything.
I have the tools.
I have the technology.
I have the time (tomorrow).
I have Y'ALL.
I just have to jump in.
Stay tuned...
I'll need to engage a 3rd party to spin the wheel / activate the SMC as it's on a ramp, but I get the principle. I know it'll depend on what I may find in the SMC , but do you recommend straight replacement as opposed to overhaul or clean & refit?
Hi Larry, courtesy phone is back online which means you’re back and well. Happy to hear!I'll be available tomorrow if you have any questions.
Standing by the white courtesy phone
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Well, not quite, but I'm working on it, trying to help folks keeps my mind of the painHi Larry, courtesy phone is back online which means you’re back and well. Happy to hear!
why they can't be used provided the OEM lines are in use?
I couldn't even finish watching that video
As far as linked systems, nothing scary about them as far as bleeding them, just follow the correct procedure as outlined in either the service manual, or Mr. Heaths articles, and you'll be fine.
Sometimes you have no problems. Sometimes there are loads of them. My current 'bleed' has been going on for a few weeks now. I am in no hurry - I can't go anywhere. But I had decided to renew the PTFE tape on the bleed valve on the front right centre piston. That was a mistake. The valve came out easily, but it would not go back in again - the thread inside the caliper was damaged. How, I don't know - I have never taken it out before and I've had the bike from new. And I haven't been ham fisted with the spanner. But that required a replacement front caliper. Currently, the lever feels OK, but I can tell that there is still a small bubble in there, and I have run out of fluid ......
But if you have good brakes already (ie no air) and you just need to refresh the fluid, then the process is simple. Go round the sequence. Flush the old fluid out with new, exercise the SMC and if possibly the pistons. Just don't let the reservoirs run down and don't let any air into the system. (My reservoirs usually contain fluid that looks pretty clean, 'cos I do it once a year). For the first couple of years of owning an ABS II ST1100 (similar plumbing to the ST1300 ) that is all that I ever did.
The article at the head of this post was really written for the times when getting rid of the air becomes an issue - like when you have removed a caliper. Simply pumping more fluid through doesn't alway work. The article is well over-the-top for simply renewing old fluid. But the diagrams are extremely useful, I think.
But that required a replacement front caliper.
Don't be put off by my experience. I wasn't trying to put you off. I was trying to convince you that it is straight forward. It doesn't take that long to do the brakes. It's just that the bike is on the ramp, and we are in lockdown due to CoVid so if I don't feel like going out to work on it, I don't. It's not coming off the ramp until January. Yesterday and today it has been cold and wet. The cloud is just about clear of the roof top and the beer in the garage is colder than that in the fridge. I'm not going out there - the bike can wait a few more days. This is my 4th ST - I've done all of the work on all of them. Something generalyy goes wrong at some point - it is part of the 'fun' of working on bikes. But this is the first time I have ever had a thread fail like that.
Actually - I did take the bike off the ramp a couple of days ago - I needed to give it a clean up before the fairing goes back on again, and the sun was out. So down it came and it is now clean. It dried while I was out there - mainly thanks to the chap walking past who passed the time talking about bikes. All the time keeping a respectable distance from each other.
But that was the thing that went wrong on that particular day.
I hadn't considered how I was going to get the bike back onto the ramp !
Without the front headlight/fairing in place, the bike will not start, and trying to take a run at it could go drastically wrong - especially with wet tyres and a smooth painted metal ramp. So I had to put the nose back on to get the engine going again. Then I left it running for a bit, just enjoying the sound of it, kidding myself that it needed warming up to help the water to clear.
No, I didn't pay that much. I found a breaker in Belgium. He had loads of calipers, but only one for the right hand side for a 2008+ model. He hadn't listed the model years on any of his calipers, but fortunately I was able to tell the difference from the photos. In the photo it looked perfect, and I checked that the one in the photo would be the one I received. When I got it, it looked hardly used - except it was covered in brake fluid. No - it cost me £60 with postage. Plus the new seals. Well worth it. And it came with hardly used clean brake pads and pad pin !
Non-JIS driver (standard #2 craftsman) ...."but just whack it"...yeah right.
Price: | $34.00 |
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