Article [13] ST1300 - Brake Fluid Replacement

Colorado11 said:
Mityvac pump. I had to manually pump rear brake pedal for pcv and rear brake bleeder valves. Mityvac wouldn't suck it out. Is this normal?
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Yes that is my SOP for those circuits. I pull 20 lb or so of vacuum on the pump then help the process by pumping the foot brake pedal.
 
I pump 8 or 10 pedal strokes and check the fluid level. usually I'll pump two reservoirs worth of new fluid out the bleeder so running it dry and pulling air in is a possibility requiring starting the rear reservoir all over. Yes, I've done it.
 
Same for me Dave...or at least a full clean reservoir through once it's coming out clear. I also much prefer pedal pumping (vs vacuum like mightyvac).
 
Hello all. Greetings from sunny southern England!

Yesterday I finally got around to doing a full bleed on my 2004 ABS. Brought on by the need to replace all pistons in the rear caliper and replacing the SMC in the left front caliper.

SMC replacement meant removing the caliper completely - so a total loss of fluid on that side. The job itself is not too bad as long as you have decent circlip pliers - and they're also great for getting the pistons out if you need to do that. See next paragraph....

The rear caliper was completely removed too. Here's a good tip for getting old pistons out - use those internal circlip pliers on the recess of the pistons - twist and go, easy peasy. You need to undo the three 12mm headed bolts on the inboard side of the rear caliper to get the pistons all the way out. Again very easy, but I was nervous about getting the new pistons and seals in. Happily, it was a breeze with a few drops of brake fluid to ease everything in.


OK. Onto the main part of the job. The full bleed. Not as bad a job as I've read on here (thanks guys, I've had sleepless nights worrying about what turned out to be a painless but tedious job...). The worst thing to say about it is that it is long-winded. And it can all be done using only front brake lever and rear brake pedal - no need for fancy electric pumps or any of that jazz.

Top tip number one: speed-bleeders (bleed nipples with one way valves). The size you need is M8x1.25. Joy all the way with these and much better than the pipe with the one way valve because the nipples stay on for next time round.

Top tip number two: for swapping the top bleeders on the front calipers (the only ones which need the front brake lever during the bleed process...), cable tie the front brake lever so that it's close to the handlebar. This keeps the master cylinder closed and ensures that the minimum amount of fluid weeps out during the nipple change. But you still need to be quick with getting the old ones out and the new ones in - have the new nipple ready and an 8mm ratchet spanner to hand. Changing all the other nipples is easier, because the rear master cylinder isn't so high.

For doing the bleed itself, I found it best to change each bleed nipple as I went, there are 7 in all. Fit your drain pipe, make sure that your catch container is big enough for a at least few reservoirs full and pump lever/pedal as per the instructions.

For those of you who are long-term owners, it occurred to me that it's probably worth rigging a pipe from the PCV to save the tedium of removing the tupperware each time. Have it exiting from the bodywork somewhere convenient, preferably high up. I haven't done it yet, but I will for next time.


That's it from me except to say a big thank you to MileHigh for his excellent clear guide. Oh, and to repeat: it's not difficult, just tedious and slow.

PS. Anyone here thought about titanium brake pistons? I have some titanium bolts on the bike and they're corrosion-free - still shiny after 4 years and almost no cleaning (my bikes get a hard life...). Expansion rates, anyone?
 
Found the post! https://www.st-owners.com/forums/sh...able-rear-brake-drag-*SOLVED-with-pics*/page3

Post #22 by OKMURDOG I agree with him that while the caliper is off and tilted it needs compressed to get the air and old fluid out.

With all the SMC problems here and the not knowing if the corrosion starts inside or outside, this needs done.

It's the same as the clutch bleed. I believe that you must squeeze the lever, hold it, then open the bleeder to allow the slave cylinder to re-extend and push the fluid out. If you do it just by pumping or VAC, there is a pocket of fluid and air that doesn't come out right at the slave cylinder.
 
Hi gang,
I'm a recent ST1300 purchaser and have a few questions about some of the tupperware listed for removal in this process. In the nicely documented process here, it indicates removing some pieces that I'm curious why. Specifically the right lower cowl, right mirror cover, right inner cowl, right maint cover. The other listed plastic seems to cover components that need access, but why are these required? Do they provide access to the ones that do need removed?
thanks
 
It's like a puzzle and the pieces are related or interconnected. To get the last piece off you have to remove the previous ones.
 
Me_cmc said:
No way could I do this.
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Maybe not the first time, but there are members that will assist you in your area. The money saved and the knowledge it is done right is well worth it. Trust me, that the members here are a more informed group than most of the repair people because all we work on are the ST.

Try contacting Mondo on the forum. He is in St. Charles.

I would even come down to his place and assist you if we could come to an agreed date.
 
Kevin_56 said:
Maybe not the first time, but there are members that will assist you in your area. The money saved and the knowledge it is done right is well worth it. Trust me, that the members here are a more informed group than most of the repair people because all we work on are the ST.

Try contacting Mondo on the forum. He is in St. Charles.

I would even come down to his place and assist you if we could come to an agreed date.[/QUOT

Thanks, I'd like that.
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Re: ST1300 Brake fluid replacement

dduelin said:
That is an excellent write up. The pictures are worth thousands of words. If I may I would like to add two things. First, I use plastic sheeting to protect the painted surfaces from any potential brake fluid spill. A garbage bag draped over the tank for instance and don't forget the wheels and front fender. Sometimes a drip or splash will fly off when pulling the vacuum bleeder off the bleeder. Second, starting with the proportioning valve I pump the rear brake to help the vacuum pump along. It speeds up things and reduces bubbles pulled into the vacuum hose while waiting for those long circuits to flush. The circuits are long and 8 or 10 pumps of the pedal is about 1/2 to 2/3 of a reservoir.
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+1 for pumping the pedal. A big thanks to dave for sharing this. I did this on all bleeders fed from rear reservoir. Three minutes to flush the proportional valve :bow1:
IMPORTANT: place something between the brakepads on the left fwd calliper before you start pumping the pedal.And thankyou for the article!
I would not have dared to do the flush by myself without it.
StooRay
 
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Thanks for a stellar article. My observations after following the procedure yesterday. 1) Do not ignore the advice re: covering painted surfaces as there are many refills required of the reservoirs and lots of nipples to bleed (lots of drips). 2) I was surprised at the color (Irish Whiskey) of the original (11 year old) brake fluid that I drained from the Proportional valve and will certainly try to do this every time I do pads.
 
Nice write up for sure as well as some of the comments being helpful. I have aways used the pump up, bleed, and repeat process for bleeding brakes. I am open to using the vacuum pump. Do the new pumps usually come with the tubing and fittings needed to do this job? I am envisioning a sealed jar between the pump and the bleed point to collect old fluid during the process. DO you finish off the project by pumping and bleeding a couple of times at the end? My VTX1800F3 had the linked braking system and was not hard to bleed. I am hopeful this ST1300 system will be similar. GUess I am going to start looking for a vacuum pump :)
 
I forgot to ask. Can you have too much vacuum and pull bubbles in the actual brake fluid? I have a 110VAC vacuum pump I could hook to a glass reservoir bottle with tubing to collect the old fluid. However, that particular vacuum pump will draw her down to a severe vacuum if it is not vented a little as it should.
 
Can somebody help me here. Im going crazy. I took apart the front calipers because of some residue. I power bled the left caliper, No problems. The right will not run solid. It just goes and goes real fast with a thin runoff of brake fluid in the tubing. It's not solid fluid, like 50/50. Been through 2 bottles of fluid. Something is wrong.
The lever is there but squishy. Tried manual bleeding. Comes out solid but still squishy.

Got it. Teflon tape around the bleeder threads. Messy!!! Installing
 
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Stop using a power bleed system or vac and get a motion pro brake bleeding check valve, it will work much better for you.
 
+1
I have both a mighty vac and a motion pro.

I use the mighty vac to suck all the old fluid out of the reservoirs and the motion pro to do the actual bleed process.

Motion pro is so much easier than the vac bleed process.
 
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