MileHigh
Juvenile delinquent
Re: ST1300 Brake fluid replacement
Yes, completely emptying a reservoir (while a bleed screw on a caliper or Proportioning Control Valve is open and you are bleeding) would introduce air into the system.
Just emptying a reservoir from the top would not introduce air, as long as you don't pull the lever or push the pedal before you refill the reservoir.
You would just have to spend additional time bleeding to get that air out. Bikes with ABS may compound the problem.
When I was a Chevrolet mechanic, the last thing you wanted to do was get air into a system with ABS. It took more work and, sometimes, you had to use a scan tool to command the ABS solenoids open to remove trapped air in an ABS controller.
Not sure if this is the same on the ST1300 with ABS but, why risk it. It's just too easy to just keep the inlet at the bottom of the reservoir covered with fresh brake fluid while you are bleeding. Especially with a helper! Even a teenage daughter can keep a reservoir full while you bleed.
Don't leave any old brake fluid in the reservoir. That's the goal, remove/replace/flush the old fluid.
Weather you use the vacuum bleeder to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir at first or, a turkey baster or syringe. As long as you don't pump the lever or pedal and, you close the bleed valves while bleeding with a vacuum bleeder before the reservoir empties, this maintenance task is quick & easy.
A vacuum operated bleeder and the cost of a compressor may seem high but, you can use it on your cars brake and clutch system as well. This will and add years of reliability to the complex braking system in a vehicle by performing this simple task.
Besides, you know you always needed a compressor in the garage. Makes drying the bike with a blow gun attachment, after a wash, much faster as well.
A dealer would charge at least $100 for a brake fluid flush on a car. Quicky lube shops might charge $20-30 bucks for the same procedure but, sometimes you get what you pay for.
Just doing my clutch fluid replacement made the clutch feel like brand new again....like butter.:bow1:
Mark,
Love the writeup for both the clutch and the brake fluid change. Just one question, would completely emptying the reservoirs introduce air bubbles into the lines? Should some of the old fluid be left in the reservoir and then pumped through when bleeding?
Thanks,
Andrew
Yes, completely emptying a reservoir (while a bleed screw on a caliper or Proportioning Control Valve is open and you are bleeding) would introduce air into the system.
Just emptying a reservoir from the top would not introduce air, as long as you don't pull the lever or push the pedal before you refill the reservoir.
You would just have to spend additional time bleeding to get that air out. Bikes with ABS may compound the problem.
When I was a Chevrolet mechanic, the last thing you wanted to do was get air into a system with ABS. It took more work and, sometimes, you had to use a scan tool to command the ABS solenoids open to remove trapped air in an ABS controller.
Not sure if this is the same on the ST1300 with ABS but, why risk it. It's just too easy to just keep the inlet at the bottom of the reservoir covered with fresh brake fluid while you are bleeding. Especially with a helper! Even a teenage daughter can keep a reservoir full while you bleed.
Don't leave any old brake fluid in the reservoir. That's the goal, remove/replace/flush the old fluid.
Weather you use the vacuum bleeder to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir at first or, a turkey baster or syringe. As long as you don't pump the lever or pedal and, you close the bleed valves while bleeding with a vacuum bleeder before the reservoir empties, this maintenance task is quick & easy.
A vacuum operated bleeder and the cost of a compressor may seem high but, you can use it on your cars brake and clutch system as well. This will and add years of reliability to the complex braking system in a vehicle by performing this simple task.
Besides, you know you always needed a compressor in the garage. Makes drying the bike with a blow gun attachment, after a wash, much faster as well.
A dealer would charge at least $100 for a brake fluid flush on a car. Quicky lube shops might charge $20-30 bucks for the same procedure but, sometimes you get what you pay for.
Just doing my clutch fluid replacement made the clutch feel like brand new again....like butter.:bow1: