Article [13] ST1300 - Brake Fluid Replacement

[MileHigh]

Update, 11-2009

This article and related pictures where performed on a 2006 ST1300, non ABS.

Fluid replacement for ABS models is exactly the same.

This article is for fluid replacement only. If you need to replace brake pads or have additional braking problems, those should be be taken care of first.

Service interval is every 12,000 miles or 2 years. Whichever comes first. YMMV

This procedure can be performed by one person. A second person is an added bonus.

Although not required, it is advisable to have-

*A basic understanding of hydraulic brake systems.
*A basic understanding of the ST1300 Dual Combined Brake System-
?Linked Braking System.?
* A Service manual. Honda manual preferred. **Even with it's faults.**

Tool list
This article utilizes an air operated vacuum pump LINKY This model does require a decent air compressor with at least a 20 gal. tank and, able to produce 4.3 SCFM @ 90 PSI.

A hand operated vacuum pump will work just as well. LINKY Your hand and wrist will get tired after a while though.

Long Phillips screwdriver
Stubby Phillips screwdriver
8mm socket, with extension(s) and ratchet
8mm, 6 point box end wrench
5mm Allen hex bit
6mm Allen hex bit
Torque wrench
Pocket screwdriver
Tooth brush

Materials list
At least 2, sealed, new 12oz bottles of Honda DOT 4 brake fluid. Do not use brake fluid from a previously opened container. It will have absorbed moisture.
Shop rags or towels. Don't use kitchen paper towels. They don?t hold up and have lots of lint
Denatured alcohol
Masking tape
Fender covers or large beach/bath towels and, large plastic trash bags. The plastic bags can be placed over the fender covers or towels for excellent paint protection.

Lets get started.

This procedure utilizes the following procedure or ?steps?

It differs slightly from the service manual but, will accomplish the same result.

Differences in the service manual are -

When to reinstall the front left caliper bracket and, step 7. The service manual shows the wrong picture for step 7.

The steps where obtained from this article. Posts 6, 31 & 32 have updates that are included in my steps.

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53678

Sides of bike are determined by sitting on bike. Right side is throttle side. Left side is clutch side.

Bleeding procedure steps-

1. Left front caliper. Outer (top) bleeder. Fed from front reservoir.
2. Right front caliper. Outer (top) bleeder. Fed from front reservoir.
3. Proportional control valve. Left front caliper with secondary rear master cylinder must be tipped. Fed from rear reservoir
4. Rear caliper. Center (forward) bleeder. Fed from rear reservoir.
5. Right front caliper. Center (lower) bleeder. Fed from rear reservoir.
6. Left front caliper. Center (lower) bleeder. Fed from rear reservoir. After re-installing from step three above.
7. Rear caliper. Outer (back) bleeder. Fed from rear reservoir.

While using a vacuum bleeder, you will see air bubbles in the clear tubing!
This is normal since air is being drawn in past the threads on the bleed screw and, possibly the rubber boot on the bleeder tube.




Tools needed, tupperware removal tools first


Tools needed, bleeding tools


Materials


Cover that tank! Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces!


You have to pull the right side tupperware.

















Where is everything located?














Just a little dirt removal first. Did I mention to cover the tank?












Make sure reservoir is level, otherwise fluid will spill out!








Get R done! These first two steps, are all fed from the front master cylinder reservoir (hand brake.)

Run almost a full reservoirs worth of fluid through with each bleed step. Do not let the reservoir empty. The front is more likely to do this!
























Whew, we are done with the front reservoir. Lets start on the rear reservoir now






The left front caliper bracket, with caliper and, secondary rear master cylinder needs to be removed and tipped upward 15 degrees










Now we can bleed the Proportioning Control Valve from step 3. It is fed from the rear reservoir!




Don't forget to refill the reservoir after each bleed!




Your not done yet, step 4






Step 5, right front. It is fed from the rear reservoir!!






Before you go on to step 6, you have to put the left front caliper bracket back on. Torque is 23 foot pounds.







Now you can do step 6, left front caliper center (lower) bleeder






Last bleeder, step 7






Take a look at both reservoir caps and diaphragms, use denatured alcohol to clean and remove any moisture


Fill both reservoirs to proper level and install caps.

Check the feel of both the hand brake and foot brake. You should have a solid feel to both.

If you had to move the front disc pads apart (wider) on the left front caliper to reinstall it, you may need to pump the front hand brake and, possibly the rear pedal a couple times to take back up the slack. Light short pumps/taps on each. Don't try to take up all the slack in one big pump/stroke.

Re-check fluid levels in both reservoirs.

Clean your vacuum bleeder equipment with denatured alcohol.



Side note. For those of you wondering, I did strip off the left side tupperware as well and, cleaned and waxed EVERYTHING on reassembly. Including the insides of all tupperware and, the front clutch cover and engine cylinder head covers on the engine as well. :

 

[Mellow]

Re: ST1300 Brake fluid replacement

Holy Cow!!! Very nice!!!!

 

[ChucksKLRST]

Re: ST1300 Brake fluid replacement

Mark, having done this a few times on my 2003 ST, your write up is an excellent guide. I would like to add if not already stated. Do the brake bleed in the order the manual states DO NOT skip or change the order. Also it does helps to have another person that is also familiar with the procedure to assist you in the process. It also makes it more fun.

 

[okmurdog]

Re: ST1300 Brake fluid replacement

Yep...nice write up!

 

[dduelin]

Re: ST1300 Brake fluid replacement

That is an excellent write up. The pictures are worth thousands of words.

If I may I would like to add two things.

First, I use plastic sheeting to protect the painted surfaces from any potential brake fluid spill. A garbage bag draped over the tank for instance and don't forget the wheels and front fender. Sometimes a drip or splash will fly off when pulling the vacuum bleeder off the bleeder.

Second, starting with the proportioning valve I pump the rear brake to help the vacuum pump along. It speeds up things and reduces bubbles pulled into the vacuum hose while waiting for those long circuits to flush. The circuits are long and 8 or 10 pumps of the pedal is about 1/2 to 2/3 of a reservoir.

 

[MileHigh]

Re: ST1300 Brake fluid replacement

That is an excellent write up. The pictures are worth thousands of words.

If I may I would like to add two things.

First, I use plastic sheeting to protect the painted surfaces from any potential brake fluid spill. A garbage bag draped over the tank for instance and don't forget the wheels and front fender. Sometimes a drip or splash will fly off when pulling the vacuum bleeder off the bleeder.

Second, starting with the proportioning valve I pump the rear brake to help the vacuum pump along. It speeds up things and reduces bubbles pulled into the vacuum hose while waiting for those long circuits to flush. The circuits are long and 8 or 10 pumps of the pedal is about 1/2 to 2/3 of a reservoir.

That is a great idea using plastic for paint protection!!

+1 on fender and front rim protection. I left the suction running while disconnecting the boot from the bleeder. I disconnected the boot slowly as well. Kind of rolled it off. I was used to doing it that way on cars for so many years.

Yea, the proportioning valve was slow!! It took the longest. It really worked my smaller compressor. Didn't feel like firing up the big 220V two stage.

It would really wear one out with a hand operated pump.

 

[nybryan]

Re: ST1300 Brake fluid replacement

thanks for the pics very nice

 

[MileHigh]

Re: ST1300 Brake fluid replacement

Mark, having done this a few times on my 2003 ST, your write up is an excellent guide. I would like to add if not already stated. Do the brake bleed in the order the manual states DO NOT skip or change the order. Also it does helps to have another person that is also familiar with the procedure to assist you in the process. It also makes it more fun.

Thanks Chuck. Woulda been nice to have a lift for some of the procedure.

I had my oldest daughter helping take pictures and, making sure reservoirs stayed full. :bow1:

The order in my steps and the referenced "cheat sheet" steps are the same order as the service manual.

Naturally, the service manual has some "faults."

Never seen that before.

The service manual does not show when to reinstall the left front caliper bracket and, the last step in the service manual shows the wrong picture for the final step. Step 7.

The rear outer (back) bleeder step, pictured in the manual shows the center (forward) bleeder instead of the correct one. I was using a 2005 factory manual.

 

[nybryan]

Re: ST1300 Brake fluid replacement

thanks again

 

[RCS]

Re: ST1300 Brake fluid replacement

Mark:

Nice write-up. Takes the fear of the unknown Service Manual steps away.

 

[Harpo]

Re: ST1300 Brake fluid replacement

Really nice write-up. I just finished following it at 4,300 miles on my '07 and it was
a breeze.

One point:

Using a vacuum suction bleeder, I noted that pulling fluid from the proportioning
valve fitting and the rear wheel rearmost fitting required loosening the bleeders
considerably and pulling a large vacuum for quite a while before fluid moved through
them and into my purge bottle. Apparently the fluid flow is severely restricted
through those two points. Just persevere and they will bleed.

I really just did the exercise to get it under my belt and I don't notice any increase
in lever or pedal firmness .. but it's nice to see clear fluid in the master cylinder
sight glasses once again and know the system is cleaner.

Again: really nice write-up there ~!

 

[MileHigh]

Re: ST1300 Brake fluid replacement

Really nice write-up. I just finished following it at 4,300 miles on my '07 and it was
a breeze.

One point:

Using a vacuum suction bleeder, I noted that pulling fluid from the proportioning
valve fitting and the rear wheel rearmost fitting required loosening the bleeders
considerably and pulling a large vacuum for quite a while before fluid moved through
them and into my purge bottle. Apparently the fluid flow is severely restricted
through those two points. Just persevere and they will bleed.

I really just did the exercise to get it under my belt and I don't notice any increase
in lever or pedal firmness .. but it's nice to see clear fluid in the master cylinder
sight glasses once again and know the system is cleaner.

Again: really nice write-up there ~!

Yea, the proportioning valve was slow (slowest.) Probably took about 15 minutes to run a full reservoir through.

All the other bleed fittings where quick. Some as quick as 1 minute!

Fronts (fed from front reservoir) where especially quick! Sucked that reservoir down quick.

I thought about using the open end side of the wrench to open the bleed screw further on the proportioning valve but, it made for a nice coffee break.

You really shouldn't notice any difference in lever or pedal feel afterwords. This is strictly to replace the fluid that may have absorbed moisture and/or started to break down from heat.

Just good old preventative maintenance.

The air operated vacuum bleeder sure is a nice tool to own.

I have used mine for many years. Works great for your automobile as well.

 

[dduelin]

Re: ST1300 Brake fluid replacement

Any of the rear master cylinder circuits are quickly done by helping the vacuum pump with pumps of the rear brake pedal. I have a short piece of pipe with a rubber crutch tip on it that I use to push the brake pedal while working on the other side of the bike.

 

[lenparkin]

Re: ST1300 Brake fluid replacement

Thanks for taking the time. Excellent photos.

Len

 

[Mark]

Re: ST1300 Brake fluid replacement

I couldn't have done this writeup any better myself... actually I couldn't have done it this nicely at all!

Thanks Mark,

Mark

 

[Harpo]

Re: ST1300 Brake fluid replacement

Since the front caliper was removed and tilted up 15 degrees, I was loathe
to pump the rear pedal during bleeding, even with a wooden shim in it. I
just didn't want the front pads squeezing down on the shim because I wanted
it to slip right back on the rotor again when I installed it ... which it did.

 

[BakerBoy]

Re: ST1300 Brake fluid replacement

Nice job Mark!! You might make a good mechanic yet.

Glad I could help.

 

[snidere]

Re: ST1300 Brake fluid replacement

It doesn't get any better than this!

 

[islandstar]

Re: ST1300 Brake fluid replacement

Mark,

Love the writeup for both the clutch and the brake fluid change. Just one question, would completely emptying the reservoirs introduce air bubbles into the lines? Should some of the old fluid be left in the reservoir and then pumped through when bleeding?

Thanks,
Andrew

 

[Harpo]

Re: ST1300 Brake fluid replacement

Might. That's the entire point .. to create a supply of uncontaminated fluid in
the reservoir before pulling all of it, bubbles and all, completely through the
lines and out the bleed nipple. You don't care about bubbles at the beginning
because you're gonna pull it all through the entire circuit and create a fluid-
tight system.

You don't worry about a bubble when you're gonna completely purge the lines.