ST1100 - She's Giving Up Smoking Like A Cigar But Now She's Hot!

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Amazon.com: Archoil AR9100 Oil Additive (16oz) for All Vehicles - Powerstroke Cold Starts, Eliminates Injector Problems : Automotive

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The oil drain hole on the left side is definitely not stopped up - I ran it a little bit with the valve cover off just to see (nice oil bath I must say ;)).
Valves seem to be operated as they should from what I could tell.
Stuck rings would make the most sense because it sat for about 4 weeks while I was on my Alaska trip.
I'm having a hard time with my previous experience on ST1100s to think an engine has 'cratered' with 45,000 miles on it.
I'll also check the vent hoses and muffler 'angle' to see if anything comes up there.
Yep that's the stuff. The Archoil won't hurt wet clutches either. The Archoil 9100 also works miracles with Ford Diesels that suffer from stiction with the hydraulic operated fuel injectors.
 
I would start by doing a good old fashioned decarbinization of the engine. SeaFoam can be used, and they have pretty good instructions of how to do it on their website.
GM used to sell a product called Cleens. It was for decarbonization and worked really well. I don't know if it is still being sold. You want a product that is listed for decarbonizing via the induction system, i.e. sucking it in through the intake.

You are lucky in that the ST1100 doesn't have catalytic converters to worry about so you can be a little more aggressive with the concentration of your chosen decarbonizing fluid. In the old carbureted days we would give it a real good soaking while holding it at high RPM to blow all of the looser crap out the exhaust right away. Then, again at high RPM, flood it with the decarbonizing fluid until it stalled. This ensured that the inside of the cylinders, the pistons, the rings, the valves, everything had a good coat of decarbonizing fluid on it. Then you just let it sit and do its job. After letting it soak you fire it up and run it long enough for it stabilize, and then you take it on the road and give it hell to clean it out. Then you change the oil and filter.

Word of caution- follow the instructions for the product that you use as far as letting it sit goes. Some of these products would not dry out and harden so they could be left overnight or longer to eat away at the carbon. Others would possibly have detrimental effects if left sitting to long. All depends on what's in them I guess.

Doing this cost very little, is easy to do, won't hurt anything, and is not invasive. If it works fine. If it doesn't, you have lost the cost of a bottle of decarbinizing fluid- and the smoke show will keep the mosquitoes away from you.

As bdalameda stated, it can be surprising what decarbonizing can help.
 
My problem is 'Why would this engine be so carbonized' at 45,000 miles when I have 3 others way past 100,000 miles and no carbon issues.
That is what I am struggling with in my head.
And why, all of a sudden after 4,000 miles or so of running fine, does it start smoking after sitting for about 4 weeks?
 
Not that I am any type of expert but Go buy a can of seafood and pour a half of can in the crank case. Also check your air filter housing and see how much oil has collected . After the seafood is in the crankcase get it up to running temp and let it run ofr a while or take it out for a ride. Seafoam will not hurt the motor. The label says that you can pour in the crank case.

You aren't losing coolant are you?
Seafood???
 
Seafood???
I prefer clams or oysters myself. But in a pinch, one of those party platters of shrimp will do. For Phil's problem though, nothing but a whole side of salmon roasted on a grill will do....
 
I prefer clams or oysters myself. But in a pinch, one of those party platters of shrimp will do. For Phil's problem though, nothing but a whole side of salmon roasted on a grill will do....

But, the salmon is probably burnt and smoking….
 
My problem is 'Why would this engine be so carbonized' at 45,000 miles when I have 3 others way past 100,000 miles and no carbon issues.
That is what I am struggling with in my head.
And why, all of a sudden after 4,000 miles or so of running fine, does it start smoking after sitting for about 4 weeks?
Maybe just issues from sitting around a lot sticking the rings. There is also a small chance that the ring gaps on the compression rings have lined up with the gap in the oil ring and created a passage for oil to pass. I have only seen this happen one time on a Kawasaki Z1 back in the mid seventies. A customer brought in a low miles almost new bike that started smoking. When we took the top end down one cylinder had the ring gaps all lined up. We rotated the rings and put it back together, problem solved. It is a very long shot that this happened though and if it did it will correct itself over time.
 
My problem is 'Why would this engine be so carbonized' at 45,000 miles when I have 3 others way past 100,000 miles and no carbon issues.
That is what I am struggling with in my head.
And why, all of a sudden after 4,000 miles or so of running fine, does it start smoking after sitting for about 4 weeks?
No idea, it doesn't make sense to me either. If it had started this behaviour shortly after you put the engine in that would make more sense if you didn't know the history of that engine. One would think that any defects would have manifested themselves before 4,000 miles.

All I can offer is what I already stated, a can of decarbinizing fluid is cheap and can't hurt, you have nothing to loose. Valve seals seems more plausible however.
 
Maybe just issues from sitting around a lot sticking the rings. There is also a small chance that the ring gaps on the compression rings have lined up with the gap in the oil ring and created a passage for oil to pass. I have only seen this happen one time on a Kawasaki Z1 back in the mid seventies. A customer brought in a low miles almost new bike that started smoking. When we took the top end down one cylinder had the ring gaps all lined up. We rotated the rings and put it back together, problem solved. It is a very long shot that this happened though and if it did it will correct itself over time.

Seen it happen.
 
Here’s my guess: if you live in an area that has high humidity and high heat in the summer, and your bike was exposed to this (under a roof but with lots of inside/outside air movement, or outside not under cover), then it could be that it was parked with one cylinder having valves open to the outside, and moisture got in and fouled up the rings on that cyl. Solution: follow suggestions above to loosen stuck rings. Add to that, run it hard to put as much pressure on those rings as possible and it could clear up fairly soon. Don’t usually see this after a few months, more likely after a few years.
My other guess: one of the intake valve seals cratered and it’s sucking oil down that valve stem.
 
Removing the cylinder head on ST11 (if required) was doable for me as a rookie. I even managed to put it all back together and run it. The worst part of it was celaning old gasket from surfaces, and spending money on new OEM ones.
 
No idea, it doesn't make sense to me either. If it had started this behaviour shortly after you put the engine in that would make more sense if you didn't know the history of that engine. One would think that any defects would have manifested themselves before 4,000 miles.

All I can offer is what I already stated, a can of decarbinizing fluid is cheap and can't hurt, you have nothing to loose. Valve seals seems more plausible however.
I've already ordered the stuff to try to decarbonize it.
And I hope it fixes it as I hate to have to do another engine swap.
It's not difficult but very time consuming.
 
Removing the cylinder head on ST11 (if required) was doable for me as a rookie. I even managed to put it all back together and run it. The worst part of it was celaning old gasket from surfaces, and spending money on new OEM ones.
I could do that, but there's probably fewer things to replace the engine than pull a head. ;)
 
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