Rear wheel binding

It only gets better when I manually separate the left side pad/bracket from rotor. Still doesn't spin freely but doesn't snag up with that awful sound. Can't tell if pads are worn too much. Thank you!
 
Doc,
Head over to this article,
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/st1300-brakes-avoiding-the-pitfalls.135125/

Also, can you elaborate a bit more on your problem.
i.e: new pads, did you clean the pistons before pushing them back in. How did the assembly go.
Watching the video clearly shows there is a bit of binding and the pads aren't completely seized to the rotor. I've changed many pads on my bike and have 156,000 Km's on it. That light rubbing is normal when you install new pads against a worn rotor. Now, if you have a temperature infra red gun, take your bike out for a spin and bed in your new pads and then measure the temperature.
Also, check out the ST1300 articles on this forum like the one above
 
Thank you so much. I'll read and watch the video. To answer your main question, I just bought the bike two days ago. Guy I bought it from said pads were changed a couple of years ago. I didn't check this when I bought it! Darn it!
 
Husoi said:
Isn't that much how old the pads are but how many miles they have.
Like @Al Gully said, it seems like there would be something to do with the pistons.
I watched your video again and the inner pad looks too close to the disk to be in a reasonable shape.
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Yes, the inner one looks too close but I just contacted the seller and he said they are new and need to get broken in? Does that make sense? Thank you!
 
I can't tell from the video, but look very closely at how the pads line up (parallel) with the rotor. I ran into a similar situation (won't go into gory details into how this may happen) where the pads and caliper were not perfectly parallel to the rotor. Either the caliper can be deformed, the slider pin (#13) bent or the caliper mounting bolt (#14) cross threaded,etc. The pads get stuck on the rear pin hanger (#18) and don't "float", binding the rotor. I have a lot of pictures on my phone I can provide if needed.
 
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You should be able to tell in a few seconds if the pads are new or not. My rear pad (OEM Honda) thickness measured 0.202 - 0.208 inches (5.15 - 5.29mm) when new. A quick look should tell you if there is ample pad material or if they are worn down. If they were not put in the caliper properly, they can hang down (assuming they fell out of the front slot before the rear pin went in) and bind the rotor.
 
Two things come to mind. When the pads were replaced, the pistons were not cleaned and now the brake dust on the pistons, not allowing the pistons free movement. Pull the pads and clean the pistons. Pushing them out a little further wouldn't hurt to get to the dust below the caliper.

The other, which is a bigger PIA, would be the SMC. (Look up SMC, here on the forum, plenty of information.)

Good luck!
 
Might want to be sure all the holes in the brake disc are clean, no large grit in a hole.

Sure doesn't look like the inside pad is a new pad.
 
Dr. Kauz said:
Rear wheel isn't spinning free and scraping noise. What should I do first?
Click to expand...

The noise in the video sounds like the anti rattle spring that holds tension on the pads. It should not be making this and is an indication something is incorrectly installed in the rear caliper. Do not ride the bike until this is resolved! If it were mine I would remove the rear pads and insure all of the hardware is installed correctly and the caliper is free to float. If you find the spring has been dragging or bent or pads worn unevenly replace them. I’m an experienced tech and can tell you while the st1300 brakes are great they can be tricky to service for diy’ers. There may be some good posts here with pics regarding rear brake pad service. I Find the factory shop manual helpful.
 
Ok, took out pads. Inside pad worn unevenly. Put in new pads. Went for spin around the block. Came back, put on center stand and inside pad was on the rear rotor preventing good rotation. Took the new pads out. Inside one already had a bit of wear. Wiped down pistons. Now there is literally no place to squeeze the inside pad in! No space to slide in! Tried various ways and can't get it close
Help!
 
Dr. Kauz said:
Help!
Click to expand...

With the pads out the caliper should be free to float. You should be able to slide the caliper side to side till it touches the rotor. If you can't do that then something is binding. Could be a corroded slide or an incorrectly installed guide pin. The guide pin at the front of the rear caliper is easy to cross thread and if it is cross threaded it will bind. It should thread easily with your fingers and only use a wrench for the last torque. IF you believe it is cross threaded I have a couple of tricks to straighten it out. Also check to be sure you have the correct part number. The rear pads are thinner than the front ones. MAke sure the pistons are fully retracted before installing the pads. You may have a sticking piston.
 
Hi guys. I'd like to emphasize that there is ZERO room to put the inner pad in. I mean none. The inner part of the caliper is flush with rotor. I would assume I should take the caliper off and have a look around.
 
Hi guys. Just an update. I got the caliper off and everything is filthy, especially the pistons. I'll clean everything up and see what happens. A couple questions first: How in the heck does the retainer bracket stay in place? It fits but doesn't snap in - seems too loose. Other than brake fluid and a shoelace for cleaning the pistons, what other substances should I use to clean up the inside of the caliper, spring, etc... Also, can I just pry loose the spring to clean and make sure it is not damaged and installed correctly?

Thanks for all of the guidance so far. I'm learning a lot and love trying to figure it out. Now if I just had more time to get this done! Dang demanding full-time job :)
 
Update: Cleaned everything. The pistons go in and out pretty well too, including a nice see-saw effect with the outers! BUT, How do I get the outer pistons in far enough so the outer pad fits? I tried to push them both together and there is a lot of resistance. Note: I haven't bled any of the brake system. Thank you!
 
Dr. Kauz said:
Update: Cleaned everything. The pistons go in and out pretty well too, including a nice see-saw effect with the outers! BUT, How do I get the outer pistons in far enough so the outer pad fits? I tried to push them both together and there is a lot of resistance. Note: I haven't bled any of the brake system. Thank you!
Click to expand...
You should be able to push them both in at the same time though there will be more resistance than moving just one. If you cant push them both together that could be an indication that the Secondary master cylinder (at the front left caliper) return port is clogged, corroded or mis-adjusted not allowing the brake fluid to return to the master cylinder. You can relieve the pressure by opening the rear bleeder on the rear caliper to see if the pistons will retract far enough to insert the pads but you may find once you apply the rear brake via the SMC it may cause the dragging to return.
 
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