What about a helicoil, or a very light coating of JB weld and redrill it, then tap it? May do the trick.
Rear wheel binding
- Thread starter Dr. Kauz
- Start date
OP
OP
I don't have any experience with that and it seems like it has to be so precise for something like this.
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Personally, I wouldnt do either. JB Weld is basically epoxy ... yea, I've read the claims of sealing cracked heads and such, but would never trust it as a re-tap material, esp for a brake caliper under high heat.
And a heli-coil would require precise install. I've only done one in my 40 years of wrenching, and that was to "fix" a threading issue on my mom's 64 Buick - for one bolt hole for the intake manifold mount.
If it were me. I'd find a new /used caliper in good condition.
This was/is similar to what I suggested and posted (#9) about from my experience. I sourced a used caliper from a salvage bike yard (which needed serious cleanining/flushing inside) and after carefully mounting it found everything in proper alignment.
Still have pics on my phone if interested.
OP
OP
Yes, I'd like to see the pictures. Thank you!
Looks like you have found the cause of the binding rear slide. If you are not comfortable straightening the existing thread (takes a little force) I would recommend finding a used one. Post here in the "Wanted" section. Some of the members have a good collection of used ST parts.
This pic shows a feeler gauge inserted under the bottom edge of the outer (left) piston with the pads removed just to verify that the pads weren't visually in the caliper crooked or the rear pin causing the issue.
(It may be easier to view the pic(s) by clicking on the image to load it in a new window/page.)
Another couple pics where you can see how the pads "cinch" themselves onto the rear pin because of being in the caliper not parallel with the rotor. They won't move freely in the caliper and on the rear slider pin and lock much like the action of a pipe clamp.
Sort of a poor analogy and description, I know, but conveying a thought isn't my strong suit. Anyways, my issue seems to relate to yours, as my front pin bolt threads were damaged and it makes quite a change in the critical caliper alignment.
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The caliper I bought ($25) had apparently sat on a shelf (or somewhere a long time) after being disassembled for part out. It was pretty ugly inside with contaminated fluid, etc. I cleaned it up and flushed all the passages very well and transplanted my existing pistons into the donor since the ones in it had some pitting from being exposed to air/water. All the threaded and sliding parts were in good shape. It was immediately apparent after the installation that the issue was solved. Then it was on to the chore of multiple full system bleeding.
Thank you to jfheath for the fine writeup on that procedure. Very well done!
flip-flop
I do not consent to a search...
OP, there is a parts dealer on eBay that was close to me that was parting out a wrecked ‘05 w/ front end damage only.
I was trying to buy the stock seat from them, but haven’t heard back as to whether they had both seats. They probably have your rear caliper. I can check when I get home from work.
I was trying to buy the stock seat from them, but haven’t heard back as to whether they had both seats. They probably have your rear caliper. I can check when I get home from work.
OP
OP
Thanks for this. My pads are also too locked into place and cockeyed. Hoping the new to me caliper levels it out.Another couple pics where you can see how the pads "cinch" themselves onto the rear pin because of being in the caliper not parallel with the rotor. They won't move freely in the caliper and on the rear slider pin and lock much like the action of a pipe clamp.
Sort of a poor analogy and description, I know, but conveying a thought isn't my strong suit. Anyways, my issue seems to relate to yours, as my front pin bolt threads were damaged and it makes quite a change in the critical caliper alignment.
flip-flop
I do not consent to a search...
OP, the vendor I was referring to has so far been unresponsive. There are quite a few rear calipers on ebay from other sellers tho. If it were me, I'd go that route.
FrogmanDave
Dave Scott
No, not at all. I thought that was a perfect analogy. It made me understand what the picture was showing exactly.
OP
OP
A nice dude is sending me a used caliper for a reasonable price. I'll go through it and replace seals, clean, inspect, etc... It won't be here for awhile so I want to get the old one off and really inspect. Do I have to drain the brake fluid completely (or just rear reservoir) before disconnecting the two rear brake lines to avoid a mess? Thank you!
OP
OP
Got into it proper. Torn rubber over slide bolt, pistons cleaned but marked and marred, and stripped screw hole for front slide bolt! 
OP
OP
Sorry, I should have specified this is my old one. Threads are in bad shape. Thinking that's the culprit. Waiting for the one I bought.
If the new one doesn’t work out I believe this one is repairable. Pistons don’t appear pitted or scored. Rubber can be replaced. Threads repaired with heli-coil. You are on the right track! Thanks for posting.
FrogmanDave
Dave Scott
What CruSTy said. Those pistons are fine. A Heli-Coil or better yet a Keensert would fix that caliper right up. I guess since you have another one coming you'll have a backup 
Here's a video on how to install a Keensert Clicky. Keenserts are more durable than a heli-coil but either one should work fine.
Here's a video on how to install a Keensert Clicky. Keenserts are more durable than a heli-coil but either one should work fine.
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Got into it proper. Torn rubber over slide bolt, pistons cleaned but marked and marred, and stripped screw hole for front slide bolt!
I'm quite certain that those messed up caliper threads are/were the cause of the misalignment and binding of the pads to the rotor-as was mine. When mounting my replacement it was obvious immediately it was going to be properly lined up.
What CruSTy said. Those pistons are fine. A Heli-Coil or better yet a Keensert would fix that caliper right up. I guess since you have another one coming you'll have a backup
Here's a video on how to install a Keensert Clicky. Keenserts are more durable than a heli-coil but either one should work fine.
Yep, the pistons look fine cleaned up.
To make the Kleensert or Heli-Coil work on that caliper it would need to be very accurately bored out in perfect alignment (which with the stripped threads it is not and the reason the pads are binding on the pin against the rotor). To do that boring isn't going to be easy and may end up with the same result as is occurring now. It's not just simple messed up threads, it has caused the hole to be out of round and perhaps even somewhat at a diagonal thru the caliper. That's why the caliper is now not parallel to the rotor.
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