Pan Weave

Only experienced it once back in 06 with my first one.. I remember going about 100 mph and passing a semi and the bike started to weave or wobble pretty violently. I corrected it by pushing the bars forward evenly and the weave corrected itself and completely stopped once I got past the truck. I remembered that trick from road racing bikes made in the early 80s, back when frames were quite flexible and a wobble or weave could be induced just by gripping the bars to tightly along with tension in your body trying to stay on an unfaired bike at high speed. Only happened once to me tho.
 
Lager said:
Only experienced it once back in 06 with my first one.. I remember going about 100 mph and passing a semi and the bike started to weave or wobble pretty violently.
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That would be a weave.. but not the "Pan Weave".
 
I read an article a couple years ago that indicated Honda tests each bike for pan weave before it leaves the factory ; if it does , the swing arm bearings get shimmed tighter . & it sounded like the bikes can get pan weave again later after the bearings wear .
 
As briefly mentioned in post #3, and I have brought up a time or two in various threads, I believe a rear riding height adjustment can make a difference in handling and high-speed wobble. Raising the rear (or reducing carried weight) makes the forks more vertical, which quickens steering and reduces stability, while lowering the rear has the opposite effects.

When I got my '01 ST1100 last August, I thought it handled like a hippo, especially compared with my '96 Nighthawk 750, even though it's fully dressed. The previous owner is lighter than I am, and having read about the above-mentioned steering geometry effects, I decided to raise the rear, by about 1/2" at the shock; not sure about the actual ride height.

The bike now handles much better, requires less counter-steering effort and feels lighter, more controllable, and predictable. If I over-do the adjustment, I believe I could get to the point that it would wobble at certain speeds with certain loading. I think a lowering of the rear of a wobbly 1300 will reduce the tendency to wiggle, all other things being equal.

The 1300 has the reputation of handling better than the 1100, and to suffer the wobble problem more. Coincidence, or a combination of design and set-up geometries? Either bike can have the steering geometry adjusted by rear riding-height changes, and for much less cost than new tires, fork braces, steering dampeners, steering-neck bearings, etc.

If I had a 1300, I'd experiment as I have on the 1100. In fact, I'm thinking of raising the rear a tad more to see. I have hit one end of the handlebar at various speeds with my hands off, and the one reaction shake immediately stops, so I'm not near the verge of instability. I encourage someone try this and report back with your findings. Anyone? Frye? Bueller?
 
I have my 1300 set up with extra ride height in back, using the length adjuster on the Nitron shock, so that the back wheel is barely off the ground on the centrestand, so approximately 25mm more ride height than stock (and using a stiffer spring too). I did that to reduce grounding out hard parts in turns, but it has had no adverse effect on high speed stability (and I have "tested" that). I generally ride solo with minimal weight in the panniers and no top-box.
 
ATA said:
Owned my '07 ST1300 for about two months now. Love it! Just came across the "Pan Weave" issue. Don't plan on doing any high speed cruising, (I'm an under 100 mph rider) but would like to hear your thoughts on this anomaly. Looks like it's nothing to worry about if you use common sense - any high speed runs should be done with the wind screen down, light weight in the pans, no trunk and medium rear shock load. Thoughts...

Alan
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Only owned my 03 a few months now,but I can definitely vouch for the high speed weaving. That said, take the bags off and it settled right down. Coming off a CBR1100XX THAT WAS ROCK STEADY AT 200MPH, TRUST ME, I KNOW WHAT STEADY FEELS LIKE
 
Django said:
Only owned my 03 a few months now,but I can definitely vouch for the high speed weaving. That said, take the bags off and it settled right down. Coming off a CBR1100XX THAT WAS ROCK STEADY AT 200MPH, TRUST ME, I KNOW WHAT STEADY FEELS LIKE
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Some tire patterns are more prone to making the ST1300 move side to side more than others. We removed the stock tires as soon as the bikes came in. They were the worst especially on California freeways where grooves are cut in the concrete to help remove rain water.
 
Tyre pressure must be spot on.

Also what is shock adjust is often an issue. Up to 2008 the shocks had 30 clicks of adjustment, from 2009 on they had 40 clicks.
Stock from Honda North American models were set to 6 clicks. I am 170lbs and run 24 clicks solo, 26 clicks with light pillion and 28 with pillion and luggage.
 
V4 Rider said:
Tyre pressure must be spot on.

Also what is shock adjust is often an issue. Up to 2008 the shocks had 30 clicks of adjustment, from 2009 on they had 40 clicks.
Stock from Honda North American models were set to 6 clicks. I am 170lbs and run 24 clicks solo, 26 clicks with light pillion and 28 with pillion and luggage.
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The change in preload adjustments is interesting if true but Honda part numbers for US market bikes don't support a material difference or change in the rear shock between 2003-2012. My 2005 and 2006 came with 36 clicks adjustment and the standard setting in the owner's manual was 7 clicks. That is the starting point of course and rider preference and individual load amount and configuration goes from there.

The problem with the stock shock is that it is comes stock with a spring that is simply too soft for riders over 165 lbs or so. That spring requires so much preload to get a typical rider's static sag at an acceptable point that free sag was then non existent which is text book recipe for a higher spring rate.
 
I started my motorcycle riding on a 74 Kawasaki H2. I then went to a KZ900 and a KZ1000, all with small tube frames. Those bikes were so unstable that I could feel the frame flex anytime I took a freeway ramp at any speed. When I finally got a ST, I fell in love with its stability. The thing took ramps like it was on rails and screaming at maximum throttle down the freeway never felt unstable to me. I launched the bike once at 60+ mph when I failed to see a speed bump. The thing took it beautifully, landed safely and got me back to the station so I could change my shorts. I don't know how many years I have left riding but I'm pretty sure I will stay with the ST until my last day.
 
Ho letto tutto il post ma sono al punto iniziale una vera soluzione drastica non esiste , cmq grazie x la segnalazione .
 
Henry9 said:
Ho letto tutto il post ma sono al punto iniziale una vera soluzione drastica non esiste , cmq grazie x la segnalazione .
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Online translation: I read the whole post but I'm at the starting point a real drastic solution does not exist, cmq thanks x the report
 
I dropped the triples about 7mm and the bike became rock solid. It wants more forward weight bias than most of us give it. The combination of under sprung rear ends, improperly adjusted rear preload, people scooting back from the hot gas tank, some seats that emphasize sitting back from the tank, and bar risers, make the front light.
 
OkieRider said:
I dropped the triples about 7mm and the bike became rock solid. It wants more forward weight bias than most of us give it. The combination of under sprung rear ends, improperly adjusted rear preload, people scooting back from the hot gas tank, some seats that emphasize sitting back from the tank, and bar risers, make the front light.
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Winner winner, chicken dinner.
 
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