Headlight Bulb Out,Time to look for replacments!

[John OoSTerhuis]

N.B. Looking at the video above I’m again reminded that when snipping the two lower tabs of an H4/9003 to install in an ST1100 or ST1300 there will still be a remaining bulge left at the base of the bulb. This bulge must be flattened in order for the bulb base to fit flat/fully into the bulb sockets in the headlight module.

If the bulge remains, the bulb will be canted down, positioning the filiments/capsule/diode light sources out of the optimum location. In the ST1100 in particular this results in poor illumination and odd artifacts.

John

 

[spiderman302]

about the video above. the 100 watt halogen bulb is only rated for 200 hours.
I find it way easier to replace the headlight bulb by reaching underneath from the front of the bike.
The first time you really have to squeeze and wiggle the connector to get it off.

 

[ST Gui]

with an air driven cut-off tool, it takes only about a minute

I used a pair of dykes to snip the tabs off. Less than a minute for both bulbs. Closer to half than not.

I had looked at the Cyclops bulbs when they were first mentioned here way back. It was my impression the option got you a bulb with the p43t base/adapter/whatever already installed. Whether or not it could be removed I have no idea. I'm curious to see what that is.

 

[ST Gui]

The first time you really have to squeeze and wiggle the connector to get it off.

+1 It also helps to see the connector from one of the pics here to know exactly where to squeeze.

 

[Lowndes]

Got the reply from Cyclops:

"The Honda ST uses a proprietary bulb which is basically an H6 base with an H4 bulb. The tabs on the H6 bulb are slightly different than the H4.
The $2 is the special base for the ST, it actually cost us much more to produce than 2 bucks. One does not need the base, they can modify the H4 base to fit. I know many do that.
Some STs may indeed use the H4 bulb, however, the bulbs we have seen in the USA do indeed use the special bulb base.
Maybe we should stop offering things that make riders lives easier and cost us money. NA we won't do that but it is tempting.




Best Regards,

Darryl VanNieuwenhuise
Cyclops Adventure Sports"

 

[Lowndes]

I used a pair of dykes to snip the tabs off. Less than a minute for both bulbs. Closer to half than not.
....

I'd try a pair of 10" tin snips for a very clean cut, exactly where I want it, and easier.

 

[ST Gui]

I'd try a pair of 10" tin snips for a very clean cut, exactly where I want it, and easier.

Having actually done it - using the dykes I got clean cuts exactly where I wanted and it was easy. It's neither rocket science or brain surgery. Some members have just bent the two tabs back. But if the snips make it easier for you than that's the way to go.

 

[DeanR]

dykes

???

 

[thatbeeguy]

Yep we know you got spare wattage go LED you won't regret it you won't have lights that fail at the wrong time it'll be brighter whiter and just all-around better adapters are cheap otherwise you're stuck using the stock wattage and style Honda bulb another words no choice at all go LED
Did I say go LED already yeah just do it

 

[st11ray]

Seriously, with an air driven cut-off tool, it takes only about a minute to cut the tabs off of two H4 bulbs. If cost is a factor, the H4 bulbs are the way to go.
But I would choose the LED option. They are a big improvement.

Grab them with pliers and bend them back and forth and it only takes 30 seconds to break them off!

 

[Larry Fine]

dykes

???

Diagonal cutters, not Lesbians:

 

[Jim Van]

I wouldn't use the higher wattage bulbs shown in the video. They generate more heat and may damage a plastic headlamp. And they draw together about 7 more amps, too. The the nice thing about the LED's - more lumens and less amps, and much longer bulb life.

 

[Jim Van]

N.B. Looking at the video above I’m again reminded that when snipping the two lower tabs of an H4/9003 to install in an ST1100 or ST1300 there will still be a remaining bulge left at the base of the bulb. This bulge must be flattened in order for the bulb base to fit flat/fully into the bulb sockets in the headlight module.

If the bulge remains, the bulb will be canted down, positioning the filiments/capsule/diode light sources out of the optimum location. In the ST1100 in particular this results in poor illumination and odd artifacts.

John

With an air-driven cutoff tool, you can easily trim / grind away what is left of the tab.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

To each his own, but I’d rather not subject a brand new bulb to direct contact (vibration!) with a power tool. Just flatten with a vice-grips. JMO

John

 

[dwalby]

I've never cut the tabs off, and never used the shims. If you bend the lower tabs back at an angle they hold the bulb in the socket without the shim. Can't remember the exact bending angle, but with a little experimentation you get it to stay in the socket and orient the bulb well enough that it will throw light in the intended direction.

 

[Jim Van]

No, no, no, Doug. Cut those tabs OFF and use the shims, Dude !!!! Not precise enough doing it your way.

There is the right way, the wrong way, the Navy way, and my way. I tell my wife, "Let's do it my way".

 

[mznyc]

IMHO, you especially need some personal down time to keep you on an even-keel so you are able to handle your responsibilities effectively. Sometimes even a 3 hour RTE ride every few weeks can help. Folks in high stress jobs learn this very quickly and are warned about dealing with possible burn-out.

I don't offer life advice to others,especially other adults or on a motorcycle forum ,particularly when not solicited....Common nowadays,..sadly.....I asked what the EASIEST,simple solution to resolving this.I've owned my ST11 since 9-11-01 so I know it and has sentimental value to me,have done all it's maintenance but been out of the loop for 18 months or so figured the group would have some updated intel on the subject.They did.
Lots of good info here and much appreciated of the on topic offerings..Going with the H4 adapters(on order) and H4 bulbs FWIW,...Thanks!

 

[beemerphile]

Since birth, I've been infected with a tendency to head out in a different direction than the pack. Sometimes it works out brilliantly, and other times I'm reminded that the pioneer is the guy with an arrow in his chest. So, I've ordered a used headlight on FleaBay and plan to split the lens and reflector and install dual projector HID's in it. I don't like HID retrofits without the projectors (too blinding) and I don't like hot H4 bulbs. Nor do I like dim OEM's or a collection of auxiliary lights mounted up and down the sides. I've done this retrofit before on several bikes, and though it is a bunch of work, I've gotten good results.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

Looking forward to your HID projector mod, Lee. That’s been discussed in our community over the years but TTBOMK nobody’s ever done it.

Just a note though - the ST1100 headlight module has a fresnel lens, and with the OEM reflector, is designed around the precise positioning of the OEM bulbs’ filaments to focus the light correctly.

I’m thinking the lens may need to be replaced with clear plexi. If so, a salvage module with a broken lens would be the cheaper way to start. I could be wrong...

John

 

[red one]

I don't offer life advice to others,especially other adults or on a motorcycle forum ,particularly when not solicited....Common nowadays,..sadly.....I asked what the EASIEST,simple solution to resolving this.I've owned my ST11 since 9-11-01 so I know it and has sentimental value to me,have done all it's maintenance but been out of the loop for 18 months or so figured the group would have some updated intel on the subject.They did.
Lots of good info here and much appreciated of the on topic offerings..Going with the H4 adapters(on order) and H4 bulbs FWIW,...Thanks!

Simplest, easiest, solution will always be buying the o.e.m. bulb from Honda and do a simple remove and replace. Just me but I find the original bulb adequate for most my riding needs. If I need more lights I use the high beams.