Andrew Shadow
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That is why I added the below notation to my post # 4 above- I didn't think that the H6M designation that Cyclops was quoting was correct.This is what I'm seeing for H6M bulbs, and is why I asked:
Headlight Bulb Out,Time to look for replacments!
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Andrew Shadow
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Aren't those expensive John?
At the time that I had my ST1100's I looked in to this. It became quite expensive unless you found a used one that was already on this side of the Atlantic. I didn't at the time.
Here is another cheaper option for anyone with a few tools and a little skill. Modify your existing North American housing to accept any H4 automotive bulb.
Here is how- Honda Motorcycle Headlight Modification Page
I was planning to do this to my ST1100 but before I got to it the bike was totaled. As a result I can't vouch if the above will work exactly as depicted on an ST1100. The pictures are from a VFR but the concept would be the same. The only concern would whether or not the mounting bail can be reinstalled after removing the required material. A quick look at your ST1100 headlamp housing will tell you that.
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So the H6M is wrong, and the modified H4 with the shim is right?
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yes.
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
Yes, as you might guess, the whole headlight module is indeed expensive. Thanks to my friend and long-time riding partner, Bill Rankin, I got a great deal on his when he moved to an ST1300.
As to the mod of the North American headlight unit documented by Bob P, I did that to my original quite a few years ago. I was never really happy with that. Although the H4/9003 bulbs fit fine the light pattern was poor (cutoff and especially odd artifacts). When measured and compared, they positioned the filiments further into the module than the Honda OEM bulbs. The added thickness of the original shims seemed to improve things so I ran them (then added a shielded HID in the right socket) until the Euro unit install. I gave my old one to Bob Hoover as his was holed, but he later totaled his SSMST.
Anyway, I later did a voluntary Alt upgrade and installed PIAA 910s under the mirrors.
Oh yeah, another plus for the Euro module is it doesn’t have the USA DOT mandated attenuator in the left reflector.
The ST1100 headlight reflectors and fresnel lenses are designed around precisely positioned/located light emitting filiments, low and high beam.
Edit: this includes “canting” of the bulb by not flattening the remaining bulge at the root of the H4’s removed tangs.
John
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Andrew,
I've used Cyclops in other bikes and they are first-rate. NO issues and GOOD people to deal with. And their products are better than anything on ebay or amazone.
MZNYC,
"....don't want LEDs...."???!!! WHAT, are you still using a carbide lantern?? Are you still riding horses?? Do you not use paved roads?? Lower power consumption, much less heat, more light, choose your color, plug&play, better vibration tolerance, much better on-off tolerance, less $, *****?? Just how old are you??
Once I tried LED headlights I converted every bulb in every vehicle I have (2 cages, 6 bikes) to ALL LEDs , except for the "GEN" dash indicator in my '00 K1200RS that has to be an incandescent for the (activated field) alternator to charge. Ancient tech, those BMW's.
I digress. Anyway, this is the adapter that Cyclops - THANKS Andrew- has for the ST ($2):
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If you google H6m base you will see that it has one tab, smaller ring and looks like the drawing on the left.
the low power version of the H4 has the lower tabs offset by 65 degrees, and a wider top tab, where the H4 is set at 45 degrees.
the low power version of the H4 has the lower tabs offset by 65 degrees, and a wider top tab, where the H4 is set at 45 degrees.
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You can get some Hella H4 ( click on the upper right red arrow to see the box they come in ) 60/55 watt lamps from RockAuto for $1.83 each ( plus shipping ). Trim the two tabs on the H4's and make shims from your old OEM lamps or buy some shims. You will see what needs to be done after you get the H4's and compare them to the OEMs.
Or better yet, for a big improvement, convert to LED's.
Or better yet, for a big improvement, convert to LED's.
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Either of the above options pay for themselves over replacing with 45/45W bulbs. The H4s are much cheaper. LED replacements pay for themselves with a far longer lifespan compared to incandescents/halogens.
Now that's funny!!! Doing online shopping for parts since the 90's when you needed a POTS line to get online!!
Does anybody sell a kit,bulbs and shims? I have several bikes so this about time crunch,so not trying to turn this into a big project as my house renovation is all that and more!
I haven't seen a kit available ( yet). And Friendly Suggestion mznyc , maybe you should rethink you priorities 
I have a busy life and a lot of bikes to work on...Too much to expalin here and not enough time to do so,...Andrew,
I've used Cyclops in other bikes and they are first-rate. NO issues and GOOD people to deal with. And their products are better than anything on ebay or amazone.
MZNYC,
"....don't want LEDs...."???!!! WHAT, are you still using a carbide lantern?? Are you still riding horses?? Do you not use paved roads?? Lower power consumption, much less heat, more light, choose your color, plug&play, better vibration tolerance, much better on-off tolerance, less $, *****?? Just how old are you??
Once I tried LED headlights I converted every bulb in every vehicle I have (2 cages, 6 bikes) to ALL LEDs , except for the "GEN" dash indicator in my '00 K1200RS that has to be an incandescent for the (activated field) alternator to charge. Ancient tech, those BMW's.
I digress. Anyway, this is the adapter that Cyclops - THANKS Andrew- has for the ST ($2):
Working to keep a roof over your head,helping aging parents,trying to keep a contractor on schedule to a year overdue house renovation,....Ya,I should really rethink my life and tell everyone to fend for themselves...I haven't seen a kit available ( yet). And Friendly Suggestion mznyc , maybe you should rethink you priorities
Cyclops has the kit for the LED with a shim for the ST1300, $2 extra. See above post #26 for a screenshot of the Cyclops page. Or just trim the tabs.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
I do not have nor have I ever seen a Cylops ST1100/1300 bulb. Their website states "optional base will be plug and play.". I can only assume that when the bulb is ordered for an ST1100/1300 from Cyclops it is not a shim that they are selling you but rather the bulb is mounted to the same base that the Honda OEM bulbs are mounted on. As they are the correct base designed for the ST1100/1300 headlamp housing they will be a direct replacement with no need for any modification or adapter.
Fitting any H4 bulb where cutting off the two lower tabs and adding the adapter rings is required adds a quite inconsequential amount of extra time to the job. However, if you truly want plug and play and don't want the Honda OEM bulbs this would be your simplest and quickest option for a quality bulb replacement. Other than these and the Honda OEM bulbs you would have to go looking and research for quality bulbs which are fitted to the correct base. That would be more time consuming than using these or the H4/adapter combination.
Working to keep a roof over your head,helping aging parents,trying to keep a contractor on schedule to a year overdue house renovation,....Ya,I should really rethink my life and tell everyone to fend for themselves...
IMHO, you especially need some personal down time to keep you on an even-keel so you are able to handle your responsibilities effectively. Sometimes even a 3 hour RTE ride every few weeks can help. Folks in high stress jobs learn this very quickly and are warned about dealing with possible burn-out.
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Seriously, with an air driven cut-off tool, it takes only about a minute to cut the tabs off of two H4 bulbs. If cost is a factor, the H4 bulbs are the way to go.
But I would choose the LED option. They are a big improvement.
Andrew,
I think what the Cyclops website is saying is that their "shim" (actually an adapter) is a "no cutting required" adapter for their standard H4 bulb to fit Honda's oddball bulb mount. Kinda like adding a washer under a nut, not a lot of extra time required. But I wouldn't think wacking two tabs off would set me back more than a few minutes, max. See:
I'll email Cyclops for more info on this and post the reply.
Andrew Shadow
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Not the impression that I get from their statement that the "optional base will be plug and play." I can't see how any adapter could be used that would negate the requirement to cut off the two lower tabs. If you still had to cut off the two lower tabs than it is not plug and play. If it is some kind of an adapter that pushed the bulb out far enough to allow the two lower tabs on a standard H4 with a P43T base to remain in place I can't see how the tabs would not interfere with the bail mechanism not to mention the bulb would be backed out of the housing so far that the light pattern would be all screwed up. I can't see that so I'm sticking with the theory that they supply the bulbs mounted to the correct base for an ST as opposed to the standard H4 P43T base.
I'll be curious to know what they say so let us know what they respond.
I wondered about that (bulb height to reflector), too. Already emailed them. They may reply directly here, if they don't, I'll post it.