H4 LED - 2018 Evitek, F2 replaces G6

I too appreciate all your efforts, Spiderman (I liked the movies too). I'm currently running the Evitek G6's, hanging in there to see what's with the latest. Prices are coming down a bit with all the competition, but still more than a good set of halogens.
Spiderman, pick one more set of the latest that interests you, and I will have them sent to you for further study.
 
Hi guys,
I have just received the new 2018 H4 and T10 bulbs from Cindy but in meantime I have traded my ST for a new RT.

2 x H4 LED - 2018 Evitek
2 x T10 LED - 2018 Evitek

Those are for sale, at the same price from Cindy: 40 Euro + shipping costs from Germany.
BR,
John
 
So the Kaslight "DOT compliant" bulb has issues. They mounted the low beam emitter too high. It spills light into the bottom of the reflector and creates glare. I do not know how they passed any test if any one looked at the light pattern it created. It could be possible if they only looked at numbers and put sensors only in certain areas. I have seen that done before.....

Another OEM (Miecoo) has an exploded view showing how the LEDs get mounted to one copper PCB and sandwiched inside the heat spreader. This is what gives this type of bulb a superior focus over the previous bubs where two PCB are mounted on a thick heat spreader. This, plus a fully enclosed shield (H4), shape of the leds (like the filament of the halogen bulb) are the attributes that make a better bulb for use on road....

MIECOO_SL1500_x2.jpg


However looking at the location of the low beam emitter relative to the shield on the Miecoo H4 bulb. the emitter is too high above the shield and will spill into the bottom of the reflector and create glare. They too need to move the low beam down 2 mm to work correctly.... (low beam emitter top edge should be on the center line of the bulb....) On the photo here "down" means to the right or closer into the shield...

MiecooH4._SL1200_.jpg

again look carefully at the H4 halogen bulb above and find the vertical center line, the low beam filament is to the right of that line. look at the led and find the vertical center line (hint: Philips screw) the low beam emitter is left of that line (wrong side) -- reason not to waste your money on this bulb....... now you know what to look for....

Oh, this is the same Issue that the so called Dot compliant bulb by Kaslight had, low beam emitter in the wrong place.....

-----------------------------------------

So there is one minor flaw with all of these H4 LED bulbs. It should be the next improvement.
It is easy to fix with whatever bulb that you may have. This is a fix that we did almost 2 years ago.
You have to be careful that you do not over do it.

If you put a H4 halogen bulb in a lathe, or drill press, or mill and spin the bulb you will see that the low beam filament is not centered.
you will see that it spins around the top edge of the filament. That is the low beam filament is mounted just below the center line.
This is a detail that is hard to see, and has been missed by many.

by lowering the low beam emitters just a bit will cause the two spots to converge and fill in the dark spot in the middle.
over adjusting will de-focus the high beam. So there is a trade off and you will have to decide which is best for you.

With the G6 I used a bare piece of 12 ga wire, the F2 I am using a bare piece of 18 ga wire.

place a short piece of wire across the bottom two slots of the light housing before installing the ring.
This will tilt the bulb lower to lower the position of the emitters.

P1050048x.JPG


As it still stands the F2 is my favorite at 30 watts, very good other options are the M1(25 watts), E1 (fanless), and the old G6 (style) for off road (broader beam) --> F2 for the autobahn (sharp focus to see way down the road)...

It is all about the details.
Maybe, if I repeat the problem three times some one might get the hint there is still an issue.....
 
Last edited:
I mounted a pair of F2s in the square Hella ecodes on my motorhome. Should I remove the metal diffuser in front of the bulb? I didn't and am getting some light scatter to the left.
 
So the Kaslight "DOT compliant" bulb has issues. They mounted the low beam emitter too high. It spills light into the bottom of the reflector and creates glare. I do not know how they passed any test if any one looked at the light pattern it created. It could be possible if they only looked at numbers and put sensors only in certain areas. I have seen that done before.....

Another OEM (Miecoo) has an exploded view showing how the LEDs get mounted to one copper PCB and sandwiched inside the heat spreader. This is what gives this type of bulb a superior focus over the previous bubs where two PCB are mounted on a thick heat spreader. This, plus a fully enclosed shield (H4), shape of the leds (like the filament of the halogen bulb) are the attributes that make a better bulb for use on road....

MIECOO_SL1500_x2.jpg


However looking at the location of the low beam emitter relative to the shield on the Miecoo H4 bulb. the emitter is too high above the shield and will spill into the bottom of the reflector and create glare. They too need to move the low beam down 2 mm to work correctly.... (low beam emitter top edge should be on the center line of the bulb....) On the photo here "down" means to the right or closer into the shield...

MiecooH4._SL1200_.jpg

again look carefully at the H4 halogen bulb above and find the vertical center line, the low beam filament is to the right of that line. look at the led and find the vertical center line (hint: Philips screw) the low beam emitter is left of that line (wrong side) -- reason not to waste your money on this bulb....... now you know what to look for....

Oh, this is the same Issue that the so called Dot compliant bulb by Kaslight had, low beam emitter in the wrong place.....

-----------------------------------------

So there is one minor flaw with all of these H4 LED bulbs. It should be the next improvement.
It is easy to fix with whatever bulb that you may have. This is a fix that we did almost 2 years ago.
You have to be careful that you do not over do it.

If you put a H4 halogen bulb in a lathe, or drill press, or mill and spin the bulb you will see that the low beam filament is not centered.
you will see that it spins around the top edge of the filament. That is the low beam filament is mounted just below the center line.
This is a detail that is hard to see, and has been missed by many.

by lowering the low beam emitters just a bit will cause the two spots to converge and fill in the dark spot in the middle.
over adjusting will de-focus the high beam. So there is a trade off and you will have to decide which is best for you.

With the G6 I used a bare piece of 12 ga wire, the F2 I am using a bare piece of 18 ga wire.

place a short piece of wire across the bottom two slots of the light housing before installing the ring.
This will tilt the bulb lower to lower the position of the emitters.

P1050048x.JPG


As it still stands the F2 is my favorite at 30 watts, very good other options are the M1(25 watts), E1 (fanless), and the old G6 (style) for off road (broader beam) --> F2 for the autobahn (sharp focus to see way down the road)...

It is all about the details.
Maybe, if I repeat the problem three times some one might get the hint there is still an issue.....
So the F2 is the favourite. Is a few questions. I have fitted these But had to cut of two tabs to make the bulda fit. But what do you do with the driver (on an ST1300) where & how do you mount it? Doea it generate much heat?. And what do you do with the rubber seal?

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
 
If you just snap it into the detent, then you will get that effect. If you twist the bub just a bit CCW then you can flatten the beam or a bit more the get the up flare on the right. They left the angle adjustable for those who drive on the other side of the road.
 
So the F2 is the favourite. Is a few questions. I have fitted these But had to cut of two tabs to make the bulda fit. But what do you do with the driver (on an ST1300) where & how do you mount it? Doea it generate much heat?. And what do you do with the rubber seal?

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

Removing the two lower tabs is S.O.P. when fitting any non-OEM bulb to the 1300 or the 1100. Unlike the 1100, no shim is needed to position the bulb correctly in the 1300 housing.

I zip tied the drivers to the supports for the front fairing. There's plenty of air space around them, and nothing delicate, so I gave zero thought to possible heat build-up issues.

Did nothing to the rubber boot except wrestle it into position around the fan. Somewhere in the back of my mind I feel like someone posted that the fan can be separated from the bulb and rejoined after installation (and after the boot has been located) but I may have that wrong so don't quote me on that until you've proven it. It would certainly make it easier to re-close the wire bail that holds the bulb in place.
 
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PugwashMI said:
Doea it generate much heat?. And what do you do with the rubber seal?
I did the same as ibike2havefun did. Zipped the driver to something in each side of the cowl and no issues. I still have the G6 Eviteks and haven't moved up to the F2s yet. The G6's fan does separate from the bulb so the rubber boot is a snap to fit. I think it's the same with the F2 as well.
 
There are still a lot of junk bulbs that are out there. --[ 2019 ]--

Here is what to look for in a H4 led.
It needs to have a full shield under the low beam emitter. (look inside of your H4 for a clue)
The low beam emitter and high beam emitter need to be mounted offset. (if they are inline you will get a weak high beam)

A heat spreader between two circuit boards will create a wider taller beam. (flood)
A circuit board between two heat spreaders will create a thinner more focused beam. (spot)

A large COB led ( wide flood)
A square led ( in between )
A inline row of small leds (spot)

20 watts min, 30 watts max. (this will get exaggerated by the vendor)
Lumen values are not to be trusted (yet)

Let me give you three options to look at spot, medium, wide.

The F2 and its clones.
It fits my riding needs, it has an awesome high beam on the ST1300. The low beam lights curb to curb and then some.
It is most like the halogen H4 in beam pattern. Low foreground lighting which is better to see far but....

The XHP50 led, this one has a taller beam pattern and really does a better job of lighting up the foreground.
It is better suited for your city driving or slow off road or winding roads. But you will have to be the judge of that.
It does not have the long distance that the F2 will do, too much foreground light reduces your ability to see way far down the road.

The big COB led. This one is more flood and has a smooth wide beam but no distance. It maybe better for city driving. (not for me, but here for completeness)

The F2 is still the best at the moment.
I can see two more steps to improve the F2 model....
One is 3D fabrication which requires re-programming the process,
The other is tubular fabrication which requires new tools not yet built....
[both with very small gains that will only be measured (but not noticed) in full round headlights.

These are what to look for in the different types.
Notice high beam is shifted (left or right) in the pictures. NO offset then no high beam.


H4_ledCOB_1.jpgH4_ledF2.jpgH4_ledXHP50_3.jpg
 
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There are still a lot of junk bulbs that are out there. --[ 2019 ]--

Here is what to look for in a H4 led.
...

I'm still waiting for the Modulator friendly LED, it has a separate input for the fans and a "on all the time" 1/3 (maybe) powered LED powered off the same power line the fans run off of, so when the modulator turns the LED Headlight off, that 1/3 power LED stays on so they don't look like they are flashing, just modulating! :rofl1:

Come on Paul, you can get someone to make something like that, right?
 
I mounted a pair of F2s in the square Hella ecodes on my motorhome. Should I remove the metal diffuser in front of the bulb? I didn't and am getting some light scatter to the left.
I did the same thing on a 2010 Honda Ridgeline . I will have to look for the scatter ,Did see the low beams still had a good cutoff line. I really would like to know the theory of this diffuser?
 
the only reason the extra cap is there is to reduce direct glare from the filament of the H4.
I think it is not necessary since the H4 has a black top. Maybe for looks since the lens is clear...
 
Just caught up on this thread and decided to replace my G6's with F2's for the more focused beam pattern. Thanks to spiderman for continuing to educate us all on the evolution of this technology and solid recommendations.

Just to be clear, the F2 won't require any tweaking of the low beam shield or anything? I think that was mentioned for the G6 to improve the upper cutoff back in one of the older threads...?

thanks!
Steve
 
Just make sure that the wire off the back is in the down direction. You might have to slightly twist the bulb a little to get the best flat beam pattern. That should be it.
Then come back here and let everyone else know your impression of its performance compared to what you had before.
I am starting to feel like a broken record, trying to pitch the better solution, not my cup of tea.
The F2 is the final solution, enjoy! Time to move on to other projects or just go riding to eat somewhere.
Happy Easter! He is risen.
 
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