Drivetrain clunk when accelerating out of first

Sorry to the most recent OP (Fireandice) for my highjacking the thread, but I hope you saw my post about the brass bushing.
 
Yeah, I'm not sure how many actually use the multi quote.. it was on the other board but hard to use and here it's easier which means it's easier to confuse w/reply.. I may even deactivate it at some point if I don't see anyone using it.

Please keep it. I can remember a number of times on the old software where I’d have loved to have had this very nice feature when replying to only key parts of multiple poster’s posts. Having to edit out all the extraneous text from each multiquote inserted into my reply was a pain. Admittedly there were some threads where I just didn’t weigh in because of that. Just my 2 cents.

John
 
I would suspect the brass bushing inside the clutch lever is just about worn through by the m/c push rod. Take off the lever and look at that bushing. It is a wear item.

+1 There’s been a lot of us that have experienced this over the years. Should probably be on the prescribed maintenance list. :)

John
 
Bush, I saw it I’ll check out. Thank you, did not know about it. I bled the clutch extensively and rear brake. Got some nice maple syrup out of the rear. Ok. Test ride today!
 
So, is this mult-quote the equivalent to the old + that we clicked on to include several posts in our reply?
Yes, however in the old one it would just quote the whole message so if you + 10 messages, all 10 message content would be quoted.. with the +quote, you can quote just parts of 10 message so it can do the same thing but flexible enough to do a bit better.
 
I had the same problem. Replaced the clutch pack and springs, all symptoms disappeared. Other than the clunk at the the end of clutch release, there were no other indications that anything was amiss. Clutch never slipped. The old clutch discs measured “ in spec”, so I’m thinking that the springs were the issue.
 
I’m going to look for a dealer with the bushing as I’m on the road. Ok, so bleeding the clutch helped but if not very nice to the clutch-still clunk. Going for the bushing next. And sounds like a clutch in the future!
I’m thinking if the clutch action is not up to par, it loads the drivetrain suddenly and the general play in the drivetrain gets taken up too fast and it clunks. Just a theory. Glad to hear it can be fixed.
 
Another possibility though probably a slim one. The clutch basket has a spring damper between the drive gear and hub basket to take up shock loads. In other motorcycles I have seen these springs become weak or loosen up and this creates play in the hub basket and will make a distinct clunk when engaging the clutch. I've never seen this happen on an ST1100 but it is possible. The only way to check this is to remove the clutch basket and inspect the damper springs on the back of the clutch basket.
 
Another possibility though probably a slim one. The clutch basket has a spring damper between the drive gear and hub basket to take up shock loads. In other motorcycles I have seen these springs become weak or loosen up and this creates play in the hub basket and will make a distinct clunk when engaging the clutch. I've never seen this happen on an ST1100 but it is possible. The only way to check this is to remove the clutch basket and inspect the damper springs on the back of the clutch basket.

If you do this, be sure to read the SM before you reassemble the primary gear and clutch basket. The two piece gear's spring needs to be compressed one tooth before you engage both in the teeth of the clutch basket. You do this by inserting a screw driver into a hole on the outside gear and lever it against the inside gear to compress said spring.
 
Sorry to the most recent OP (Fireandice) for my highjacking the thread, but I hope you saw my post about the brass bushing.

I wrapped some silver cooking foil around my bush to make it tighter. This seems to help my gear changes a hell of a lot. Less clunking. I will get around to replacing that at some point. But it is worth looking at!
 
They are new but I’ve always heard they have to be pounded in. These just went in no effort.
If you’re referring to the 5 rubber dampers in the wheel, are your replacements Honda parts or aftermarket? And yes, they should fit very tightly. First I’ve heard of any case of new ones not so.

Wrapping worn dampers with anything is not recommended. Replace with new, including new aluminum inserts. IMHO Rear wheels and final drives are very expensive.

John
 
They are new but I’ve always heard they have to be pounded in. These just went in no effort.

Please clarify what part you are talking about. I see John is thinking the rubber wheel dampers, but you make no mention of this in any earlier post and the last thing we were talking about was the brass bushing in the clutch lever.

The wheel dampers, if OEM, will require pounding in with a rubber mallet.
 
Interesting here. Yes the rubber wheel dampers. They were genuine Honda. And did not require any mallet. This is interesting!! I don’t know what to say. At the time i thought they were loose. For being new.
 
Interesting here. Yes the rubber wheel dampers. They were genuine Honda. And did not require any mallet. This is interesting!! I don’t know what to say. At the time i thought they were loose. For being new.

I'm at a loss on this too! Every time I have replaced these, three or four times now, I had to pound them down into their recesses in order to get the gold coloured holding plate back on. I even used a water based lube on them to help get them fully seated. Now, this is on a 1100. Are the dampers on the 1300 different in the way they fit/work?

If you still have the part number from the order you placed for them, does it match the part number on the Honda ST1300 parts fiche? Maybe you got 1100 dampers?
 
I'm at a loss on this too! Every time I have replaced these, three or four times now, I had to pound them down into their recesses in order to get the gold coloured holding plate back on. I even used a water based lube on them to help get them fully seated. Now, this is on a 1100. Are the dampers on the 1300 different in the way they fit/work?

If you still have the part number from the order you placed for them, does it match the part number on the Honda ST1300 parts fiche? Maybe you got 1100 dampers?

It’s an 1100 but I get what you’re saying. I Checked the 1300 ones and they look different. When you said get them to “seat” this rang a bell. I vaguely remember having to put the plate back on and screwing it down to crush the last 1/4”. Maybe this is something. Thx!
 
I found the new bushing at Honda. It was not the problem unfortunately. It’s smoother now with new grease and It’s clunking less only because I can let out the clutch smoother. Not sure if this is hiding the problem or fixing it? However, the clunk is there. Not sure how I will fix this in the end. In summary if you are clunking:
-dampeners
-clutch hydraulic components
-clutch springs in the basket
-final drive (spacer?, worn gears?)——swap out.
-ujoint
It’s going to require some major detective work.
 
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