Crimp -- or Solder?

Uncle Phil said:
So the next question - name/number/picture/source of 'proper' crimping tool?
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I got this one Phil. The cheap green one. They can get real expensive. Seems to work ok on those open barrel terminals.

Open Barrel Crimp tools

We have Open barrel Terminal crimp tools,and Terminal Extration Removal tools for open barrel wiring terminals like, Molex, Amp, Yazaki, Sumitomo, JAE, and Harley Davidson - Deutsch terminals. I also have some tips for those that may want to solder certain terminal crimps. Open Barrel Terminal...
www.cycleterminal.com www.cycleterminal.com

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Uncle Phil said:
So the next question - name/number/picture/source of 'proper' crimping tool?
Click to expand...
Some of the ones that we had where I worked were in the hundreds of dollars, some were in the thousands but I don't think that is what you are going for.

I only have two recommendations;
1- get the ratchet style as they allow for better control while making the crimp as well as greater and more controllable force, which results in a better crimp. Buy one that comes in a kit that comes with multiple dies that can be changed without the need for any tools. This gives you more flexibility in the type of crimps that you can do.
2- Buy it from a brick and mortar store. There are hundreds of these available on-line but you can't tell what type of quality they are from a picture. For this type of tool I prefer to go to a place where I can look at and operate it to get a feel for it. Some are so poorly made that the two halves of the dies don't even align when you close the jaws. At least when you can handle it first you can look for these types of things to get a feel for the quality. I bought mine on sale for around $50.00 CAD, so they don't have to be expensive.
 
Andrew Shadow said:
Some of the ones that we had where I worked were in the hundreds of dollars, some were in the thousands but I don't think that is what you are going for.

I only have two recommendations;
1- get the ratchet style as they allow for better control while making the crimp as well as greater and more controllable force, which results in a better crimp. Buy one that comes in a kit that comes with multiple dies that can be changed without the need for any tools. This gives you more flexibility in the type of crimps that you can do.
2- Buy it from a brick and mortar store. There are hundreds of these available on-line but you can't tell what type of quality they are from a picture. For this type of tool I prefer to go to a place where I can look at and operate it to get a feel for it. Some are so poorly made that the two halves of the dies don't even align when you close the jaws. At least when you can handle it first you can look for these types of things to get a feel for the quality. I bought mine on sale for around $50.00 CAD, so they don't have to be expensive.
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Picture of the one you have?
 
Uncle Phil said:
I've got a 'selection' but I still on occasion get a wire that pulls out - a ratcheting one should be the trick.
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The ratchet type is only there to ensure that each crimp will receive the same amount of pressure... not that it's die will actually fit...
To have the proper crimp connectors (fitting the gauge and insulation thickness at hand) plus the exact die fitting to it can end up in a runaround...
By now I moved away from German/EC made ratchet types and discovered Japanese made crimp pliers... its like JIS vs Philips...
 
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ST1100Y said:
The ratchet type is only there to ensure that each crimp will receive the same amount of pressure... not that it's die will actually fit...
To have the proper crimp connectors (fitting the gauge and insulation thickness at hand) plus the exact die fitting to it can and in a runaround...
By now I moved away from German/EC made ratchet types and discovered Japanese made crimp pliers... its like JIS vs Philips...
Click to expand...
Picture/brand?
 
Crimp vs solder...

I have to admit, even after my Positap comment early on, I find myself using lever nuts more and more, despite not being waterproof.
There are certainly applications when you can't use them, but I find them more handy than not most of the time.

I have a bunch of multiple connection Wago 221 models (2, 3 & 5 wire) as well as the single inline ones.

1732976059543.jpeg1732976071995.jpeg

You can get a gel filled waterproof box for them (designed for use with AC power) but it's bulky compared to the other methods listed above.

*edit: guess these could technically be considered a "tool-less reusable crimp."
 
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Uncle Phil said:
Picture/brand?
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That one is very versatile for the standard sizes (also used it as site engineer in HVAC)


and then this gem:

www.ebay.at

IWS-2820M Crimpzange for Molex Tyco JST Terminal Und Anschluss Multi-Funktions Z | eBay

IWS-2820M Crimpzange for Molex Tyco JST Terminal Und Anschluss Multi-Funktions Z | Business & Industrie, Werkzeuge & Werkstattbedarf, Handwerkzeuge | eBay!
www.ebay.at

suitable for those tiny crimps used in the OEM Honda multi-pin shells (quartet harness, etc...), or even down to those JST connectors...

Yes, both are single-die, so I have to press wire and insulation prongs individually, but I actually see what I'm doing, hence precise results...
BTW:
the prongs must be parallel to begin with, if that's not given I flip the connector 90° and give the prongs a little squeeze before crimping it
size matters, better start with a larger die and press again with the next smaller, giving the prongs a chance to flare/roll inward nicely
 
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Ross Smith said:
Old school I guess.
Rosin core solder then glued heat shrink tubing over the cleaned connection. Have found that crimping doesn't always support high current draws and have gotten hot. Braided wire may also fray if the connection experiences motion. My two cents...
Ross
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I am with you. It's crimp, solder and heat shrink over the top of it all. I have read the literature. I know the pros and cons but I have been doing it like this for too long to stop now.
 
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