Crimp -- or Solder?

It all depends on how cheap the customer is. Don't want the labor cost? Crimps for you!
 
Al st1100 said:
heat shrink put over a soldered connection when made long enough eliminates the possibility of flexing at the joint. The shrink tube is stiff. Waxed heat shrink is harder to find. There is a coating of wax inside when heated an shrunk the wax oozes out the ends , a perfect seal. There are numerous ways to seal it as long as it is sealed.
Click to expand...
rwthomas1 said:
Adhesive lined shrink tube is the solution. Not the cheap PVC kind, you want the polyoelfin type. The glue oozes out when you shrink it. Done correctly it's impervious. Under trailers, bilges of boats, etc. It works.

RT
Click to expand...
John OoSTerhuis said:
Proper roll crimp with a quality tool on uninsulated connectors covered by quality ($) shrink tubing. Many of mine are 26 years old. Too many to count. JMNSHO YMMV FWIW

John
Click to expand...

I wanted to wait to respond to look at what I had for shrink tube. I was sure I had bought adhesive lined shrink tube but I had never recalled seeing anything oozing out of the end of it and I thought that the adhesive was just a very light film or possibly that I had got some cheap Chinese junk. When I got home today, I looked up my Amazon order and it definitely said it was adhesive lined. so, I took a piece and joined two wires together only butting them together with no mechanical joint. I wanted to see if any adhesive actually did ooze out of it and how strong the adhesive is. Despite not noticing adhesive oozing out of the shrink tube before, it in fact does with the stuff I have. After I let it cool I did a strength test to see if I could pull the wire out of the shrink tube. I had to pull hard and the wire didn't let go from the tube but the tube snapped in half. I hadn't given the stuff much thought before
 

Attachments

  • 20210217_152615.jpg
    20210217_152615.jpg
    101.3 KB · Views: 25
  • 20210217_152718.jpg
    20210217_152718.jpg
    98.6 KB · Views: 25
Bmacleod said:
Sorry, is that directed to my post above Larry?
Click to expand...
No, definitely not. Just a general addition to the thread as a whole. I hadn't seen the tool used be addressed.

And, crimped connections are very poor when used on solid conductors, unless you actually dent the wire.
 
Larry Fine said:
You should use the kind of crimper that dents the sleeve, not merely flattens it:

1613596739808.png 1613596755649.png
Click to expand...
Not if you want to maintain the watertight integrity of the shrink type connectors. I have a ratchet style crimper for them that definitely doesn't dent. If denting was a requirement I would use non-insulated and shrink tubing.

RT
 
rwthomas1 said:
Not if you want to maintain the watertight integrity of the shrink type connectors. I have a ratchet style crimper for them that definitely doesn't dent. If denting was a requirement I would use non-insulated and shrink tubing.
Click to expand...
Are you addressing puncturing of the insulting sleeve?
 
I know this is a old thread but peel off the cover on the crimp connector and put it on and then solder it, gives no resistance for connection and then shrink tube it. I use liquid tape on the plug in un sealed connections to restrict corrosion
 
jmcarruth said:
High vibration, like on a MC - crimp with quality components.
I have had solder connections vibrate apart on me on MCs, before I learned.
The military crimps fighter jets for a reason.
Click to expand...
Absolutely...
Darn solder seeps in between the strands, "molding" your wire into a stiff, brittle, inflexible something...
The acid in the flux will stay active, keep reacting with humidity/road spray, corroding along...
The applied heat changes the properties of the copper and the wiring-insulation...

Stay within the route of the OEM wiring harness, leave nothing loose, tidy things up, wrap, sleeve, zip-tie things along properly without putting strain on the wires/components either...

roll-crimp.jpg

double roll-crimp, wide section closes around insulation, narrow grabs on the strands...
 
jmcarruth said:
High vibration, like on a MC - crimp with quality components.
I have had solder connections vibrate apart on me on MCs, before I learned.
The military crimps fighter jets for a reason.

Stationary - solder.
Click to expand...
+1 A solder connection can be made fairly impervious to vibration on a bike starting with making it stationary. But high reliability can be achieved more efficiently by crimping with quality tools and bits.

Crimping also allows for the creation of Y-connectors so an installation can be "reset to factory" in a couple of minutes or less if desired. You know – for the OCD rider.
 
After 40 plus years of mechanics I will usually crimp terminals using quality connectors, love the heat shrink ones. After crimping I give it a strong pull to make sure it's on right. High load circuits "like Stator output wires" I will put a small solder dab on side of the connector away from the rest of the wire. Also firm believer in Di-electric grease in the connectors , and lots of tie straps to hold it in place ,do it right or bring a good pair of walking shoes
 
I use dielectric grease on connectors too, Using a brush on helps keep moisture and road junk out. tying down the wire is a must on doing your wiring install. I also use a small amount of grease on my bar switches so the non contact portion stays corrosion free. PS. You got me on the time as a mechanic mine is only 34 years and we both sound like we are same page with only details differing. It is all good as long as the wind is in the face and the miles add up
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom