Crimp -- or Solder?

Imho in the olden days solder was the way to go. Yep good old lead solder. But today's solder is not as good since they have taken away the lead out of it. I remember when i worked on electronic components old 30 year old boards never had a solder break. Today it is kinda common especially on things like key board contacts and resistors, varistors and caps.
 
Here is some interesting reading. Im not saying its right or wrong, but some interesting points... https://millennialdiyer.com/articles/motorcycles/electrical-repair-crimp-or-solder/
I have read recently of applying dielectric paste (not sure if they mean grease or if there is actually a paste) before shrink tubing. The tubing squeezes out the excess and makes a waterproof connection. The reports say you can run these connections under a trailer and never have a failure. Dont know if it is true, but sure makes sense.
 
Bmacleod said:
Here is some interesting reading.
Click to expand...

That is really interesting. Apparently I have been under a rock for quite awhile, I was not aware of the points forum members and the article made about crimping. Very eye opening.

Plus this gives me an excuse to buy more electrical tools! :p

-Ryan
 
spiderman302 said:
I crimp, then back fill the voids with solder, then conformal coat (paint), then tape or, shrink and/or tye-wrap if necessary. Then moly paste between the.......
Click to expand...
Glad I'm not the only one, but I fear you're also forgetting the zip ties on either side of the connection to hold it to something. I prefer to crimp, solder the voids, paint then shrink wrap, but each to their own.

Many moons ago at a biker camp out, a friend brought a gas powered soldering iron with him... that taught me to always carry one with solder, just in case the urge takes me...
 
To expand on this a bit further, regardless if you solder or crimp do you think one should heat shrink or use liquid electrical tape?

1613517337601.png
 
Obo said:
To expand on this a bit further, regardless if you solder or crimp do you think one should heat shrink or use liquid electrical tape?
Click to expand...
I prefer heat shrink, as it's neater.
When I tried to use the liquid tape, it was very difficult to make it look good. I'm sure it sealed my connections, but it looks like crap in a sack.
If you can use it somewhere that no one will ever see, I'm sure it could be effective. Well, as sure as I *can* be, as I don't work in the electrical industry.
 
do you think one should heat shrink or use liquid electrical tape?
Click to expand...
I have not found the liquid tape to be anywhere near as tough as heat shrink. Even once thoroughly cured it tears quite easily. I tend to use it only in applications where I can not get heat shrink installed over the wire, such as when splicing without cutting the wire. After it has fully cured, I will most likely try to get a wrap of electrical tape over it to protect it.
 
Obo said:
To expand on this a bit further, regardless if you solder or crimp do you think one should heat shrink or use liquid electrical tape?
Click to expand...

I believe both. I have used liquid tape but found it weak on its own, but I have seen many shrink tubed connections corrode and fail. It seems that heatshrink cant stop moisture from migrating into it. I had mentioned earlier about reports of some using dielectric paste under shrink tube for a waterproof seal. I had never considered liquid tape, but after reading @spiderman302 's use of it under shrink tube, I'm thinking it may be as good or better than the paste idea, as it would dry under the shrink tubing and could seal better. I will start doing this on all connections in an environment with the potential for water and road spray
 
Last edited:
Bmacleod said:
I believe both. I have used liquid tape but found it weak on its own, but I have seen many shrink tubed connections corrode and fail. It seems that heatshrink cant stop moisture from migrating into it. I had mentioned earlier about reports of some using dielectric paste under shrink tube for a waterproof seal. I had never considered liquid tape, but after reading @spiderman302 's use of it under shrink tube, I'm thinking it may be as good or better than the paste idea, as it would dry under the shrink tubing and could seal better. I will start doing this on all connections in an environment with the potential for water and road spray
Click to expand...
heat shrink put over a soldered connection when made long enough eliminates the possibility of flexing at the joint. The shrink tube is stiff. Waxed heat shrink is harder to find. There is a coating of wax inside when heated an shrunk the wax oozes out the ends , a perfect seal. There are numerous ways to seal it as long as it is sealed.
 
Bmacleod said:
I believe both. I have used liquid tape but found it weak on its own, but I have seen many shrink tubed connections corrode and fail. It seems that heatshrink cant stop moisture from migrating into it. I had mentioned earlier about reports of some using dielectric paste under shrink tube for a waterproof seal. I had never considered liquid tape, but after reading @spiderman302 's use of it under shrink tube, I'm thinking it may be as good or better than the paste idea, as it would dry under the shrink tubing and could seal better. I will start doing this on all connections in an environment with the potential for water and road spray
Click to expand...

Adhesive lined shrink tube is the solution. Not the cheap PVC kind, you want the polyoelfin type. The glue oozes out when you shrink it. Done correctly it's impervious. Under trailers, bilges of boats, etc. It works.

RT
 
  • Like
Reactions: Obo
The problem is that the solder can (and often does) wick up the wire underneath the insulation. This makes the wire brittle which is not good in a high vibration environment.
 
John OoSTerhuis said:
Proper roll crimp with a quality tool on uninsulated connectors covered by quality ($) shrink tubing.
Click to expand...
I've been soldering since I was knee-high to a Weller 8200. Built Heath-Kits and Knight Kits with Dad. Then I started crimping when I got my first car, because it was easier than dragging out an extension cord and gun.

Vehicles have been using crimped connections for ages (economy and speed being a big part of decision) and really very few fail and not for years in most cases.

Coming here I saw the mention of bare connectors crimped and insulated with good heat-shrink. I haven't done much wiring since but this is now what I prefer. Very neat and putting two or three connectors on a screw/bolt/terminal is now very tidy. So that's how I roll.
 
ST Gui said:
Vehicles have been using crimped connections for ages (economy and speed being a big part of decision) and really very few fail and not for years in most cases.
Click to expand...
I was thinking the very thing. I still prefer to solder my connections and cover with heat shrink, never had one break down. I have a very good crimp tool but I have a 5% failure rate with crimping. ;)
I was brought up on Heathkit projects as well. On my 13th birthday I got an AM radio in a brown leatherette case. I couldn’t wait to get that project done.
 
Shawn K said:
It seems that offering a third alternative goes unnoticed.
Click to expand...

Not at all, I've used your method, it works well. It has worked really well for very heavy gauge splices/repairs, like 00 battery cables. I don't use it for often as if I run out of anything, its usually shrink tubing. So I end up with adhesive lined shrink terminals....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom