Big Blue won't wake up from her long winter's nap.

The little I know is two st didn’t start because of old batteries even though they were cranking over , one was in a Honda dealer on a bike I was looking to buy , the other was on a bike I bought on my first ride bike stalled while riding heated seat & grips were on, after sitting waiting for my daughter with my trailer the bike started when I got home I got a new battery after that I could run with the heated grips heated seat and it never gave me any more trouble, in the first bike that wouldn’t start the honda mechanic told me they need a good battery sometimes they won’t start with a bad battery. Just my two cents
[/QUOTEthe first bike in the Honda dealer it wouldn’t run even with a jump but when he put a new battery in she started right up.
 
The first bike had a dead battery they tried to jump it , she would turn over but not start the Honda mechanic put a new battery in and she started right up, on another note I didn’t buy that bike because I wasn’t ready to give up my pacific coast I still miss that bike
 
I've copied and pasted this in threads a couple times, it's for my own point of reference, once I get mine reassembled I'm going to add the corresponding measured amperage with a DC clip on type fluke ammeter. I'd be interested to know if, for example since you have a cranker but not starter, and sounds a bit like a doesn't even stumble situation if you've got a case where you can run the starter, but during that peak amperage phase the resultant voltage drop is below the threshold to achieve spark, that would be the 10.3 VDC in my case.
My XL which is a 600 kick start thumper has a mercy feature; for model year '85 if you kick weak, it produces no spark at all which spares a broken ankle you can achieve from the kick back on previous years.

Replacement: YUASA YTZ14S 230 CCA [Igofar]

My own voltage measurements from earlier this summer between rides, bike started cold after about one day.

12.56 VDC Static - Battery appears well charged; below I think 12.4 you're already behind.
11.63 VDC Key On / Post Fuel Pump Prime / Head Light and Instrument Cluster On. - Should only slowly drop if left in this state for a few seconds.
10.30 VDC during the cranking phase fairly steady, but brief bike starts pretty quick. - If you're voltage droops much more than this, you've either got a weak or inadequate battery, or you're drawing excessive starting current.
14.20 VDC or something close to that once the bike runs. - Means your alternator is developing a high enough voltage to run your gear and recharge your battery.
 
I've copied and pasted this in threads a couple times, it's for my own point of reference, once I get mine reassembled I'm going to add the corresponding measured amperage with a DC clip on type fluke ammeter. I'd be interested to know if, for example since you have a cranker but not starter, and sounds a bit like a doesn't even stumble situation if you've got a case where you can run the starter, but during that peak amperage phase the resultant voltage drop is below the threshold to achieve spark, that would be the 10.3 VDC in my case.
My XL which is a 600 kick start thumper has a mercy feature; for model year '85 if you kick weak, it produces no spark at all which spares a broken ankle you can achieve from the kick back on previous years.

Replacement: YUASA YTZ14S 230 CCA [Igofar]

My own voltage measurements from earlier this summer between rides, bike started cold after about one day.

12.56 VDC Static - Battery appears well charged; below I think 12.4 you're already behind.
11.63 VDC Key On / Post Fuel Pump Prime / Head Light and Instrument Cluster On. - Should only slowly drop if left in this state for a few seconds.
10.30 VDC during the cranking phase fairly steady, but brief bike starts pretty quick. - If you're voltage droops much more than this, you've either got a weak or inadequate battery, or you're drawing excessive starting current.
14.20 VDC or something close to that once the bike runs. - Means your alternator is developing a high enough voltage to run your gear and recharge your battery.
I put my little USB port/voltmeter in the outlet in the middle of my riser. Static I had 12.4. Key on/fuel pump pressurized I had 11.5. Cranking I had 10.2. These are all a point or two below your numbers. The battery has had three seasons and is a Parts Canada CTZ14S-BS. I presume that is a cheap aftermarket brand (installed by the previous owner).
 
Did you try to give it a boost with another battery source yet? If you do and you notice the engine turning over a little quicker and it starts, a new battery may be in your near future.
If you have a lot of miles on your plugs, new ones will help it start, but more than likely you still have a weak battery if nothing else is wrong.
The usual place of mouse damage is below the fuel tank in the V of the throttle bodies. Sometimes they crawl up through the front where the intake is and clog the air filter. I found some seeds in my air filter housing once when I replaced the filter. I fabricated a little fence on the intake snorkel to hopefully keep them out. :)

Good luck....
 
Just had a look at the 03 ST manual and it shows connecting an ammeter [in series with negative battery terminal] you should have less than 2.5 milliamps "leakage" current.
It also shows that 13 to 13.2 means it's fully charged, and less than 12.3 VDC static voltage means it needs charging.
Depending on the quality / resolution of your multimeter that 0.0025 or less amperage might be hard to measure and your measured 12.4VDC is getting close to 12.3VDC.
I've got half a dozen meters I use to measure DC volts on modulating valves and a difference between them of one [but not often two] tenths volt not unusual.
Once again these are just my measured values - 12.56 static / 10.3 during cranking might work fine on a well tuned [guess] bike that I rode 24hrs earlier in July, but I'll soon find out how that works after it hasn't run for four months.
 
Pull the entire airbox and look under it for a mouse who chewed your fuel injector wire(s). I got a great deal on mine last year when the same thing happened to the original owner and he did not have the patience to fix it. Cost me less than $25 to fix it.
 
Did you try to give it a boost with another battery source yet? If you do and you notice the engine turning over a little quicker and it starts, a new battery may be in your near future.
If you have a lot of miles on your plugs, new ones will help it start, but more than likely you still have a weak battery if nothing else is wrong.
The usual place of mouse damage is below the fuel tank in the V of the throttle bodies. Sometimes they crawl up through the front where the intake is and clog the air filter. I found some seeds in my air filter housing once when I replaced the filter. I fabricated a little fence on the intake snorkel to hopefully keep them out. :)

Good luck....
Yes, I boosted it a couple of times from my Grand Caravan and it didn't improve the cranking. Still not firing. The voltage readings were about the same as previously except for the static which was 14.1. I'll have new plugs here tomorrow. The local Honda dealer was only local place I could find to get them and they were cheaper than Fortnine. If the plugs make no difference then it will be off with the airbox but I'll first I'll need a JIS screw driver. Oh Amazon!
 
Yes, I boosted it a couple of times from my Grand Caravan and it didn't improve the cranking. Still not firing. The voltage readings were about the same as previously except for the static which was 14.1. I'll have new plugs here tomorrow. The local Honda dealer was only local place I could find to get them and they were cheaper than Fortnine. If the plugs make no difference then it will be off with the airbox but I'll first I'll need a JIS screw driver. Oh Amazon!

Wow! If your local dealer was cheaper than Fortnine, stick with them! I haven't had the pleasure of that phenomenon yet. :)
Hopefully you don't have mouse damage or a failed electrical component.
Good luck....
 
Just had a look at the 03 ST manual and it shows connecting an ammeter [in series with negative battery terminal] you should have less than 2.5 milliamps "leakage" current.
It also shows that 13 to 13.2 means it's fully charged, and less than 12.3 VDC static voltage means it needs charging.
Depending on the quality / resolution of your multimeter that 0.0025 or less amperage might be hard to measure and your measured 12.4VDC is getting close to 12.3VDC.
I've got half a dozen meters I use to measure DC volts on modulating valves and a difference between them of one [but not often two] tenths volt not unusual.
Once again these are just my measured values - 12.56 static / 10.3 during cranking might work fine on a well tuned [guess] bike that I rode 24hrs earlier in July, but I'll soon find out how that works after it hasn't run for four months.
I'm not sure how accurate my USB/voltmeter is (probably not very). Boosting from the car didn't start it so I guessing the battery is not the immediate problem?
 
Pull the entire airbox and look under it for a mouse who chewed your fuel injector wire(s). I got a great deal on mine last year when the same thing happened to the original owner and he did not have the patience to fix it. Cost me less than $25 to fix it.
Airbox is on the list if new plugs don't do it. I need to get a JIS screw driver and I think from what I've read on other threads I should change any vacuum lines I disconnect.
 
Airbox is on the list if new plugs don't do it. I need to get a JIS screw driver and I think from what I've read on other threads I should change any vacuum lines I disconnect.

If you do get to see under the airbox, checking and cleaning out your 5 way T and vacuum hoses is a good idea. Replacing the hoses more than likely isn't necessary, but would be a good time to do it.
Good luck....
 
... then it will be off with the air box but I'll first I'll need a JIS screw driver. Oh Amazon!

I'm not familiar with the 1300 tool kits other than after a certain year, you got a piece of foam and an Allen wrench. Having said that, if you got a tool kit with the bike, the cross pointed screwdriver should be a JIS model. A cheaply made one but still ...
 
I'm not familiar with the 1300 tool kits other than after a certain year, you got a piece of foam and an Allen wrench. Having said that, if you got a tool kit with the bike, the cross pointed screwdriver should be a JIS model. A cheaply made one but still ...
I wondered about that but the owner's manual (page 85) says the toolkit contains a number 2 Philips! It is hard to believe that Honda would include the wrong screw driver. It could be that the owner's manual was translated incorrectly or it is just an error in the manual.
 
I tried the new plugs the other day. It was about the same. Key on, fuel pump pressurized, FI goes out, hit the starter, cranked fine, oil light out, no start. I have lifted the tank and taken the airbox cover and filter out. Thanks to my Heli bar riser, I had to take off the left handle bar to raise the tank. The filter is three years old (24K km). The PO said he had the filter replaced the last year he owned it (looks believable). There is a little grit on the unfiltered side at the base of the filter. There is a residue in areas of the airbox and at the base of the filter. It is the shiny tacky stuff in the pictures. Not sure what it is. I'm debating between two actions: (1) take the bottom of the airbox out to look at v area or (2) drain the remainder of the fuel (ref 5-56 of the service manual), button up the airbox and fuel tank and put 10 liters of fresh fuel in it and a bottle of seafoam.IMG_20220422_192524_948.jpgIMG_20220422_192635_377.jpg IMG_20220422_192558_303.jpg IMG_20220422_192845_746.jpg
 
Looks like no one has been in there for a while. 24,000 kms in 3 years is a lot for me though. :)
I would clean up the air box real well and remove it to check out your throttle bodies, wiring and 5 way Tee, since you're almost there. Hopefully you don't find any wire damage.

I would replace the air filter when you re assemble. :)

Hard to believe your fuel went bad over the winter , especially using supreme fuel. You should buy a can of starter fluid and give that a shot to rule out fuel related issues. If your bike "tries" to start or starts, then replacing the fuel is a good next step

Good luck.....
 
10 liters of fresh fuel in it and a bottle of seafoam
I would skip the sea foam, squirt some gas in the throttle body's and see if it fires with the air box off. You could also try holding it at full throttle while cranking.
 
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I've probably got the least experience with an ST compared to anyone but the suspense is killing me, can't stop myself, no self control so here goes, wondering that you mention in your first post plugs looked okay, wet and you had spark, also you can hear the pump prime so that's gas, also you said you verified spark at each plug I read my 03 manual and it suggests checking compression at some point. I wouldn't suspect so since you rode it last and a bad pocket or misfire likely won't go unnoticed on a four banger.
I had a couple times with mine where it seems as though I flooded it, only had it a couple times, left if alone for ten minutes then started it up and forgot about it. I'm wondering if you've got too much fuel at start and once your plugs are wet you're flogging a dead horse for the next however minutes.
 
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