I've copied and pasted this in threads a couple times, it's for my own point of reference, once I get mine reassembled I'm going to add the corresponding measured amperage with a DC clip on type fluke ammeter. I'd be interested to know if, for example since you have a cranker but not starter, and sounds a bit like a doesn't even stumble situation if you've got a case where you can run the starter, but during that peak amperage phase the resultant voltage drop is below the threshold to achieve spark, that would be the 10.3 VDC in my case.
My XL which is a 600 kick start thumper has a mercy feature; for model year '85 if you kick weak, it produces no spark at all which spares a broken ankle you can achieve from the kick back on previous years.
Replacement: YUASA YTZ14S 230 CCA [Igofar]
My own voltage measurements from earlier this summer between rides, bike started cold after about one day.
12.56 VDC Static - Battery appears well charged; below I think 12.4 you're already behind.
11.63 VDC Key On / Post Fuel Pump Prime / Head Light and Instrument Cluster On. - Should only slowly drop if left in this state for a few seconds.
10.30 VDC during the cranking phase fairly steady, but brief bike starts pretty quick. - If you're voltage droops much more than this, you've either got a weak or inadequate battery, or you're drawing excessive starting current.
14.20 VDC or something close to that once the bike runs. - Means your alternator is developing a high enough voltage to run your gear and recharge your battery.