Mobil1 full synthetic automotive oil..will my clutch be okay?

Honda

Joined
Jul 13, 2019
Messages
6
Age
53
Location
SE CT
IMG_20210324_150107848_HDR.jpgIMG_20210324_150115341_HDR.jpgI greetings from Connecticut USA..Can I run Mobil 1 high mileage 10w30 full synthetic oil in my st1300? I've read guys say they've used it but I'm afraid I'm going to mess up my clutch by using it.Any input I'd really appreciate it.Label doesn't say anything about energy conservation on it.Its just Mobile1,high mileage for engine 75,000 Plus..advanced full synthetic motor oil.It's not specifically motorcycle oil so that's the reason I'm concerned.I did the last oil change with Honda oil. I just want to get an oil change in today so I ran to Walmart and bought this.again I appreciate anybody taking the time to help me out here.I just don't want to run this in my engine and end up making my clutch slip
I've heard that happens but I'm not sure if that's accurate with the full synthetic Mobil1. Everybody have a great riding season and be safe.. Robert.IMG_20210324_150107848_HDR.jpgIMG_20210324_150115341_HDR.jpgIMG_20210324_150451043_HDR.jpgIMG_20210324_150427426_HDR.jpg
 
I would not be using it in my ride. All new oil formulations has changed. That SP rated oil means it is even more slippery that the previous oil. Look up the current API rated oils and you will see what I'm talking about. The new SN and SN plus and now SP rated oils were not developed with a wet clutch motorcycle clutches in mind. Just to let you know when in doubt the Honda GN 4 10W 40 oem oil works just fine. No guess work required.:)
 
I agree its not something I'd use in a motorcycle, because of the 10W-30 weight range being too narrow, but I noticed that it doesn't have the "energy conserving" part on the API label. That was typically the determining factor on whether an oil was acceptable for wet clutches, wasn't it?
 
dwalby said:
I agree its not something I'd use in a motorcycle, because of the 10W-30 weight range being too narrow, but I noticed that it doesn't have the "energy conserving" part on the API label. That was typically the determining factor on whether an oil was acceptable for wet clutches, wasn't it?
Click to expand...
His weight range is fine . That weight oil is what's now recommended for the new Honda Goldwing series. What would concern me is the new fiddling around with his oil's chemistry. As previously posted SP rated oil is a whole different animal designed for 16 percent more fuel economy than previously SN rated oils. That means more slippery oil to me.
 
I wouldn't use an oil that didn't have "meets or exceeds JASO MA" on the labeling. The viscosity of this particular 10w40 is fine. The ST1300 service manual lists 10w40 as acceptable but it's the compatibility of wet clutch use that's in question.

That is what label icon certifies the oil is compatible and safe to use with a wet clutch:

IMG_0752.jpg
 
red one said:
I would not be using it in my ride. All new oil formulations has changed. That SP rated oil means it is even more slippery that the previous oil. Look up the current API rated oils and you will see what I'm talking about. The new SN and SN plus and now SP rated oils were not developed with a wet clutch motorcycle clutches in mind. Just to let you know when in doubt the Honda GN 4 10W 40 oem oil works just fine. No guess work required.:)
Click to expand...
API certifications SN or SP have nothing in themselves to do with "slipperyness" or whether the oil is rated as Resource Conserving. The amount of friction modifiers, usually molybdenum, in the additive pack make an oil Resource Conserving or not and it just so happens that Resource Conserving oils have too much ppm of molybdenum to pass the JASO MA test for wet clutch compatibility.
 
red one said:
His weight range is fine . That weight oil is what's now recommended for the new Honda Goldwing series.
Click to expand...
What does the new Goldwing oil recommendation have to do at all with another model that's approaching 20 years old and had completely different oil requirements at the time it was produced? The Goldwing oil recommendation is based on its specific design, and the era in which it was designed, so it applies to that bike, and that bike alone.
 
Just use an oil that meets the JASO MA standard. Any of them, pick one. I, and others, use Rotella 5w-40 synthetic diesel oil. It meets the standard, but not specifically approved. Available everywhere, and trouble free in enough bikes to know it's fine.

RT
 
dwalby said:
I agree its not something I'd use in a motorcycle, because of the 10W-30 weight range being too narrow, but I noticed that it doesn't have the "energy conserving" part on the API label. That was typically the determining factor on whether an oil was acceptable for wet clutches, wasn't it?
Click to expand...
no
 
dwalby said:
What does the new Goldwing oil recommendation have to do at all with another model that's approaching 20 years old and had completely different oil requirements at the time it was produced? The Goldwing oil recommendation is based on its specific design, and the era in which it was designed, so it applies to that bike, and that bike alone.
Click to expand...
IMO 10/30 would work, really doubt that there would be an engine catastrophe. The newer oils have better wear protection 1616628925850.png
 
If a non-wet-clutch oil causes slippage, remember that clutch plates are porous, so it might not be fixed by the next oil change.
 
dwalby said:
What does the new Goldwing oil recommendation have to do at all with another model that's approaching 20 years old and had completely different oil requirements at the time it was produced? The Goldwing oil recommendation is based on its specific design, and the era in which it was designed, so it applies to that bike, and that bike alone.
Click to expand...
Actually GN 4 is the same oil chemistry that is spec'ed for the 20 year old ST1100 or 10 year old ST1300 or a brand new Goldwing 1800. So nothing has changed except for the 10W 30 weight recommendation. The chemicals that make up Honda GN 4 has not changed in 20 years. All Honda GN4 still have a API SJ grade. And thats good for your new or old Honda.
 
dduelin said:
API certifications SN or SP have nothing in themselves to do with "slipperyness" or whether the oil is rated as Resource Conserving. The amount of friction modifiers, usually molybdenum, in the additive pack make an oil Resource Conserving or not and it just so happens that Resource Conserving oils have too much ppm of molybdenum to pass the JASO MA test for wet clutch compatibility.
Click to expand...
Agreed about the JASO MA wet clutch test. But the mark is missed about SN and SP rated oils because oil in those API rating will have massive amounts of additives that make them resource conserving. I am running into this problem now trying to find conventional oil for my car and lawn mower and I can't find it. 225 K miles on my Toyota using Pennzoil yellow bottle conventional oil now they don't make it any more. According to an oil forum in order to meet the governments new fuel mileage goals oil had to change so that's why only GF 6A and API SP will be sold. A synthetic with a ton of addtives in them. Like I posted earlier I've been following the development of this new rated oil and I promise you a motorcycle wet clutch was not given a thought. These new oils were developed especially for cars.
 
I would run it until it's time for the next oil change. If the clutch does start to slip, dump it and the filter. Put in a cheap (brand name) 10-40 non-energy conserving oil. Change that oil and filter out after about 1000 miles. It might take 2 cleaning oil changes. I also use a car oil filter ('96 Civic). It'll be all right.
 
dwalby said:
What does the new Goldwing oil recommendation have to do at all with another model that's approaching 20 years old and had completely different oil requirements at the time it was produced? The Goldwing oil recommendation is based on its specific design, and the era in which it was designed, so it applies to that bike, and that bike alone.
Click to expand...

Actually, I'm surprised that a new Goldwing wouldn't be calling for a 0W-20 yet, as that is what most, if not all new cars require today and really, that flat six is no different than a car engine, except for the transmission connection.
 
Bush said:
Actually, I'm surprised that a new Goldwing wouldn't be calling for a 0W-20 yet, as that is what most, if not all new cars require today and really, that flat six is no different than a car engine, except for the transmission connection.
Click to expand...
That might require separating the engine lubricating system from the transmission's.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom