Article [13] ST1300 - Switched Power Tap

[milkmaster]

My fuseblock will be beneath the passenger seat as well. The wires that might go beneath the tank are headed to the handlebars. The main ground does come from the battery as you said. I was considering putting a jumper from that ground to the other side of the fuzeblock for the ground bus side. It may already be an internal ground on the ground bus. I won't know until I get further along I guess.

Yes I know my original post said FS-1 and should be FZ-1! Please pardon my mistake.

Reginald, did you find out why your wires were not staying in the screws?

 

[SupraSabre]

...The only way I see you need to route those wires under the fuel tank is if you mount the fuse block forward somewhere, which I have seen in the forum. ...

I made a "5 wire cable" running from my BlueSea Fuseblock sitting in the rear, going up front (under my tank on the rightside) to run my Stebel type horn, running lights and tankbag. Of the five wires, two are 14ga, the others, 16ga. the 14ga consist of a hot and ground for the horn, the other three are the 16 ga for my 10W Led driving lights and one going to my tankbag. The thrid is for a future need. I'm also using the Quarter Harness to power my Powerlet Outlet at the riser and to give me power to my relay for my driving lights.

Also, I'm using the taillight wire to power my rear 50amp relay, going to the BlueSea fuseblock. Power and ground to the BlueSea are from the battery.

 

[Reginald]

Reginald, did you find out why your wires were not staying in the screws?

Yes, I was using a jewelers screw driver and wasn't putting enough torque on the screws. I bought a small craftsman that had a blade small enough to fit and it provided the torque I needed.

SupraSabre is right about routing the wires to the front of your bike. You can also follow the wiring harness on the left but it would be a little more crowded with wire. Be sure to buy some casing for the wire. I use the flexible stuff from cycleterminal: http://www.cycleterminal.com/sleeve-tubing.html

 

[ST Gui]

the 14ga consist of a hot and ground for the horn

I'm not familiar with any of the specifics of the various fuse blocks. Wouldn't it be simpler to ground the horn up front somewhere? Or is this to bypass any resistance through the frame to the battery?

 

[SupraSabre]

I'm not familiar with any of the specifics of the various fuse blocks. Wouldn't it be simpler to ground the horn up front somewhere? Or is this to bypass any resistance through the frame to the battery?

In the past I have grounded the horn to the frame, but with this particular harness, I decided to go with a ground to the fuseblock, which goes directly to the battery. I have a two pronged plug, so the horn harness just plugs into it I like it much better this way. I also have a three way plug for the other power lines.

 

[GrinchSmurf]

I just ordered a eastern Beaver aux fuse box for my ST 1300 , just need to figure out where to mount it!?

 

[fnmag]

I just ordered a eastern Beaver aux fuse box for my ST 1300 , just need to figure out where to mount it!?

Welcome to the forum.
The Eastern Beaver fuse box is an excellent piece of kit.

 

[akagi115]

I just installed the FUZEBLOCK in my ST1300...the only thing that I was hesitant about doing was finding the correct switched wire to tap into for the switched power signal. The red wire with the green stripe was right there where the original post said that it would be. Everything worked correctly the first time. I appreciate all of the accumulated knowledge of this group; I just bought my ST1300 and I am new to it. Slowly getting the maintenance done and the farkles installed.

 

[St1300biker]

Apologies first of all if I am raising something which has already been thrashed to death.

My limited knowledge suggests that we should tap into a wire that is situated after a fuse, as the feed would still be live if a fault occurred and tapped into the wire prior to the fuse.

I have a UK ST1300 - A6, but the US models appear to have the same colour wires for the topic under discussion.

Now the red w/green stripe wire travels from the rear fusebox to the front fusebox via the Accessory Socket, as they are described. The wire that is coming out of the front fusebox is red w/white stripe (could be yellow and not white as difficult to see in the manual) and not red w/green stripe.

Can someone please put me straight?

Thanks

Paul

 

[ST Gui]

I have a UK ST1300 - A6, but the US models appear to have the same colour wires for the topic under discussion.

I can't speak to the similarities or differences between UK and US STs but here's a link to a couple of great PDFs for the ST1300 wiring.

 

[V4 Rider]

Think you will find that red/ green from front fuse holder and red/ white from rear fuse holder are separate connections.

One from rear fuse box is always on ( it keeps clock running ), one from front fuse box is switched via ignition and powers hazards and accessory socket

 

[St1300biker]

Thanks for your comments.

I've solved my dilemma. When the ignition is turned on, amongst other things, the current flows from the Battery, to the Starter Relay, into the Front Fuse Box (15A Fuse for Hazards and Accessories) and out along the red/green wire as Mellow suggested. Originally, I seem to have got the current flow in the reverse direction.

BTW, the red/white (or maybe yellow) wire and the red/green wire ARE on the same fuse.

Paul

 

[jfheath]

Hi Paul - @St1300biker

Ive just commented on another thread about that nifty relay with fuse. Then I saw this thread. I have probably out 2 and 2 together and come up with the answer 37. But better to say something and look like an idiot if I am wrong, than not say something and be right.

So - if you are tapping into a power line after a 15A fuse, then you have (say) 8A available for whatever you are wiring un - after the Hazards have taken what they require - fag packet calculation - 4x21w =84w = 7A at 12v

If you are wiring something that requires that relay you mentioned, that would suggest that it has a bigger current draw - in which case the power and the return need to be made to the battery - suitably protected. If the accessories do not require as much as (say) 8A, then that accessory line may have enough in reserve to provide all of the power, without the need for a relay.

There is a 9 pin Hitachi connector on the left hand side of the steering column which has lines to the accessory circuits. It is where the quartet harness plugs in, but it can be tapped without having a quartet harness. Hitachi type 9 pin connectors ( and 2,3,4 pin) can be found easily in the UK on the net. The pins provide always on power, on with accessories/ignition, on with just accessories.

Personally, I have one large feed to + and - on the battery, and use the quartet harness connector to trigger two separate relays. eg, satnav, intercom and such like, I can turn on with the accessory position of the ignition switch - set things up without flattening the battery. Other stuff comes on as well if the key is turned to ignition.

I have a write-up somewhere on here - if you are interested I'll go hunting for it. I'm not sure if it made it to the article section.

 

[V4 Rider]

BTW, the red/white (or maybe yellow) wire and the red/green wire ARE on the same fuse.

Yes they are either side of the same fuse.

What is really wierd is there are appear to be two red/ green wires going to the accessory socket which are not the same supply.

Most unusual for Honda to do that.

Had used Haynes Manual as their thick line color diagrams easier to follow than Honda thin line diagram with letter codes. Thought it must be a Haynes error translating lettered wire colours into coloured diagrams for their manual.
Checked Honda wiring diagrams and right enough one from Fuse J (Clock Backup) is Red/ Blue.

Apologies for confusion.

 

[ST Gui]

Ive just commented on another thread about that nifty relay with fuse.

John– a distant memory tells me that you posted a pic of either that relay with fuses or a multiple-relay base/setup. Could you refresh my memory? Was it one/the other/both?

 

[St1300biker]

Yes they are either side of the same fuse.

What is really wierd is there are appear to be two red/ green wires going to the accessory socket which are not the same supply.

Most unusual for Honda to do that.

Had used Haynes Manual as their thick line color diagrams easier to follow than Honda thin line diagram with letter codes. Thought it must be a Haynes error translating lettered wire colours into coloured diagrams for their manual.
Checked Honda wiring diagrams and right enough one from Fuse J (Clock Backup) is Red/ Blue.

Apologies for confusion.

Even in the Haynes Manual some of the multi coloured wires are difficult to see. I had to use the eyes of my wife and son to get a better handle on the matter.

Paul

 

[St1300biker]

I have a write-up somewhere on here - if you are interested I'll go hunting for it. I'm not sure if it made it to the article section.

Yes please John. As a mathematician and scientist I still spend a lot of time researching so look forward to reading it.

As regards the current draw from tapping in, surely the current just to trigger a relay is negligible. The hazards are not in use most of the time???

3 other things come to mind. Firstly, I don't think I can use the quartet harness as I have heated grips. Secondly, why do posts to the "Articles" not appear under "New Posts"? Thirdly, what did you use the triple relays for?

 

[jfheath]

John– a distant memory tells me that you posted a pic of either that relay with fuses or a multiple-relay base/setup. Could you refresh my memory? Was it one/the other/both?

Wow, that is a good memory. This is probably the one you are thinking of. Standard relay and 3 standard sized fuses (larger than the ones in the ST1300 fuse box). I used two of these - they will slide together side by side, but fastened them and to end with cable ties, and they slot into the recess in front of the ECU in the rear cowl. Of course, you have to do the wiring yourself, but the kit comes with all of the necessary terminals. I buy plenty of spare terminals at the same time.



Polevolt and Autoelectricalsupplies are two companies in the UK that I have used. But I notice that these holders and other similar devices are sold by many more companies now. It would be nice to have one that takes the smaller blade fuses and the smaller compact relays that the ST1300 uses. I couldn't find any others at the time. I spotted one on USA ebay, ready wired for over £100 ! I know wire costs a lot, but that is a bit excessive, I thought. A different thought was that I need to start a production line.

3 other things come to mind. Firstly, I don't think I can use the quartet harness as I have heated grips. Secondly, why do posts to the "Articles" not appear under "New Posts"? Thirdly, what did you use the triple relays for?

Ok - three answers:

I have a quartet harness, but I am thinking i might remove it and make my own - I have a couple of 'Y' branches off each connector which I use to trigger the relays. It has become a bit untidy. I think I'd prefer to run a single cable which plugs direct to the 9 pin connector to feed the relay triggers.

I think that only @Mellow can promote a post to an article. When he spots something worth keeping in the articles section, he will move it there. The original post will appear as a new - until it is moved. You have to be quick to see it though - Joe is extremely efficient in maintaining this superb site. Any subsequent comments are also flagged, but I think you may need to allow them in your preferences. Click your name at the top right, select preferences and check the stuff for which you wish to be notified.

There are two relays, each with three fuses. I trigger one relay to come on with ignition and accessories (ie the key is in the normal running position), the other relay is also triggered when the key is just in accessories position. 'Just accessories' are intercom, cameras, satnav, USB charger - Front devices from one fuse, rear devices from another, the USB charger from the third. This means I can sit at the side of the road with the key turned to accessories and fiddle with volumes and satnav without fear of the battery running flat. The other relay has a fatter 20A wire feeding it and it supplies heated seat, and sockets for two heated jackets. 7.5A for heated seat, 5A each for heated jackets.

Here's the link to the article - it is there in the article section after all. I thought it might have been lost in my recent severe pruning of my posts.

Article [13] - ST1300 - Home Made Accessory Wiring Loom v2 | ST1300 Articles

A self contained wiring harness for providing power to all of my accessories. Properly fused, comes on with accessories and/or ignition and can be completely isolated by disconnecting just one connector. Over the top ? Maybe. But it works, it is safe and has never let me down. (Not yet...

www.st-owners.com

 

[Mellow]

I think that only @Mellow can promote a post to an article. When he spots something worth keeping in the articles section, he will move it there.

That's correct. But also if someone notifies me that a particular thread/post has enough info and pictures to be an article.

 

[St1300biker]

Wow, that is a good memory. This is probably the one you are thinking of. Standard relay and 3 standard sized fuses (larger than the ones in the ST1300 fuse box). I used two of these - they will slide together side by side, but fastened them and to end with cable ties, and they slot into the recess in front of the ECU in the rear cowl. Of course, you have to do the wiring yourself, but the kit comes with all of the necessary terminals. I buy plenty of spare terminals at the same time.



Polevolt and Autoelectricalsupplies are two companies in the UK that I have used. But I notice that these holders and other similar devices are sold by many more companies now. It would be nice to have one that takes the smaller blade fuses and the smaller compact relays that the ST1300 uses. I couldn't find any others at the time. I spotted one on USA ebay, ready wired for over £100 ! I know wire costs a lot, but that is a bit excessive, I thought. A different thought was that I need to start a production line.



Ok - three answers:

I have a quartet harness, but I am thinking i might remove it and make my own - I have a couple of 'Y' branches off each connector which I use to trigger the relays. It has become a bit untidy. I think I'd prefer to run a single cable which plugs direct to the 9 pin connector to feed the relay triggers.

I think that only @Mellow can promote a post to an article. When he spots something worth keeping in the articles section, he will move it there. The original post will appear as a new - until it is moved. You have to be quick to see it though - Joe is extremely efficient in maintaining this superb site. Any subsequent comments are also flagged, but I think you may need to allow them in your preferences. Click your name at the top right, select preferences and check the stuff for which you wish to be notified.

There are two relays, each with three fuses. I trigger one relay to come on with ignition and accessories (ie the key is in the normal running position), the other relay is also triggered when the key is just in accessories position. 'Just accessories' are intercom, cameras, satnav, USB charger - Front devices from one fuse, rear devices from another, the USB charger from the third. This means I can sit at the side of the road with the key turned to accessories and fiddle with volumes and satnav without fear of the battery running flat. The other relay has a fatter 20A wire feeding it and it supplies heated seat, and sockets for two heated jackets. 7.5A for heated seat, 5A each for heated jackets.

Here's the link to the article - it is there in the article section after all. I thought it might have been lost in my recent severe pruning of my posts.

Article [13] - ST1300 - Home Made Accessory Wiring Loom v2 | ST1300 Articles

A self contained wiring harness for providing power to all of my accessories. Properly fused, comes on with accessories and/or ignition and can be completely isolated by disconnecting just one connector. Over the top ? Maybe. But it works, it is safe and has never let me down. (Not yet...

www.st-owners.com

Thanks John. I appreciate the time you spent replying in detail and look forward to reading your Article.

Paul